Brake issue
I got my brakes re-done two years ago (immediately after getting the truck). Ever since then, I've noticed a slight vibration in the left side. It didn't seem to get any worse, and it wasn't affecting anything, so I left it alone.
About two weeks ago, it did start getting worse, so I took the tire off and made a visual inspection of the brake on the driver's side.
RESULTS: Right front rotor okay, left front rotor cracked along the spindle hub and warped all the way around. This is the same condition the left front rotor was in 2 years ago -- should I just re-do the brakes again, or should I look for a bigger cause, perhaps with the spindle assembly?
Drive safely,
Dan Harriman 84 F150 lwb
Orange, Texas
As I said, I had this exact same problem two years ago. Could there be a defect with the spindle assembly that would cause it to screw up repeatedly like this?
As I said, I had this exact same problem two years ago. Could there be a defect with the spindle assembly that would cause it to screw up repeatedly like this?
You should check all components to find the underlying cause of the problem. It sounds to me like the piston is sticking in the caliper. What probably happened is that the piston has some rust on it, that for most of the life of the brake pads, doesn't touch anything like the piston seal, allowing the brakes to operate normally. However, when the pads wear to the point that the piston is extended out far enough for the rust to get caught in the piston seal, then the piston gets stuck and does not return to the at rest position. This causes the pads to wear faster than the other side's pads. It also heats up the rotor and that can cause hard spots, hence the vibration in the left side, and/or heat cracks in the rotor, among other things.
These days, rebuilt calipers are pretty cheap. They even come with the pads in most cases. In fact, it is almost cheaper to buy a reman than it is to rebuild one these days. If you consider the peace of mind that comes with buying a reman caliper as opposed to the worry about whether or not you built the caliper correctly, it is cheap insurance.
The flexible brake hoses should be inspected and if they have any cracks in them at all, they should be replaced. Also, when removing the caliper from the brake lines, do not pinch the flexible hoses with channel locks. You will damage them and they will need to be replaced. In your case, if you can't determine the cause of the problem, it might be a good idea to replace the hoses anyway.
If you had the brakes done a couple of years ago, it is most likely time to do them again. Even the pads that are warranteed forever wear out. While you are checking/rebuilding/replacing the calipers and pads, you should also either replace or resurface the rotors. The machine shop will tell you which way you need to go with the rotors. Be sure to repack the wheel bearings and replace the inner wheel bearing seal. When you put the calipers back on, be sure to lube the slides between the calipers and anchor plates.
To tighten the wheel bearings correctly without a torque wrench, turn the wheel slowly as you tighten the wheel bearing nut. When the nut snugs down and all play is removed from the bearing, back it off about 1/8 of a turn or so and secure it with the cotter pin.
While the truck is jacked up, be sure to check the shocks, king pins, tie rod ends, and all steering and suspension parts including the radius rod bushings.
Good luck and keep us informed as to what you find.
Drive safely,
Dan Harriman 84 F150 lwb
Orange, Texas


