1 Step Forward, 2 Steps Back....
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
1 Step Forward, 2 Steps Back....
Well my 66 F-100 is almost there but it still has some temperments lol. Last night the rag joint decided to rip but got it fixed and replaced.
Now my brake lights work at times and don't in other times. The truck when I bought it came with front disk brakes and rear drum which I am finding out someone did the disk swap on the front before I got it. I replaced the calipers and pads as they were needed.
I have a new switch/sensor on the M/C for the brake light but still doesn't work all the time. It still has the single chamber M/C and I do not see any proportioning valve that I can find.
Could this be cause the issue with the brake lights? If so what is the best way to fix it?
Thanks!
Now my brake lights work at times and don't in other times. The truck when I bought it came with front disk brakes and rear drum which I am finding out someone did the disk swap on the front before I got it. I replaced the calipers and pads as they were needed.
I have a new switch/sensor on the M/C for the brake light but still doesn't work all the time. It still has the single chamber M/C and I do not see any proportioning valve that I can find.
Could this be cause the issue with the brake lights? If so what is the best way to fix it?
Thanks!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,465
Likes: 0
From: Southern Alberta
Wow. someone would go the the work of replacing the drums up front with discs , and not change out the single pot MC. bizzare.
How does it stop, with no proportioning valve? good/bad -grabby rear?
Yes the pressure switch on the single pot is probably your problem.
Best to change to the electronic switch from a later truck, and GET THE SINGLE POT OUT OF THERE
best of luck!
RF
How does it stop, with no proportioning valve? good/bad -grabby rear?
Yes the pressure switch on the single pot is probably your problem.
Best to change to the electronic switch from a later truck, and GET THE SINGLE POT OUT OF THERE
best of luck!
RF
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,565
Likes: 9
From: Sun River St. George
Another place to look for intermittant light problems is at the bulkhead connector. The contacts corrode over time and will cause lots of problems. Even Ford eliminated these problematic connectors in later versions of the F100.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Peru Indiana
sorry I probably should have asked this before, where is it located ??
I don't mean to hijack the thread just want to gain a little knowledge.
I don't mean to hijack the thread just want to gain a little knowledge.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Would not bother w/ a salvaged MC, believe paid around $45-$55 for rebuild dual MC at local NAPA store, had the choice of oulets on either side. Should be able to locate the proportion valve at local salvage yard, you may want to take the lines connecting the MC to the valve and bracket. Kept the pressure switch with the upgrade on my 65 many years ago and never had a problem, if decide to swap to electric, take the electrical brake switch, harness, and bracket during your salvage run.
Rag joint located at the end of the steering column connected to the steering box acting as a shock obsorber and possibly called rag joint because of type of material it's made of, but not certain..
dave
Rag joint located at the end of the steering column connected to the steering box acting as a shock obsorber and possibly called rag joint because of type of material it's made of, but not certain..
dave
Last edited by daveengelson; Sep 3, 2007 at 12:25 AM.
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Thanks for the help guys.
So is there just a simple bolt on solution for this? Will a dual M/C from a mustang be a direct bolt up?
And I will need the M/C, Proportioning Valve and I assume some brake line?
Thanks!
So is there just a simple bolt on solution for this? Will a dual M/C from a mustang be a direct bolt up?
And I will need the M/C, Proportioning Valve and I assume some brake line?
Thanks!
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,045
Likes: 164
From: Central Texas
If you're gonna go through the effort of a dual MC upgrade, you might as well go with power brakes too.
Not sure about any "bolt up" MC, but I used one from a '70 F150(w/ power booster) and had to shorten the pushrod about an inch.
Not sure about any "bolt up" MC, but I used one from a '70 F150(w/ power booster) and had to shorten the pushrod about an inch.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
Try this article for a little guidance. https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...rd_Trucks.html
I've got a copy in the toolbox for when it's time to gather parts.
I would definitely get rid of that single pot m/c. They were fine for putting around the farm and rural roads but are just plain dangerous on modern highways.
I've got a copy in the toolbox for when it's time to gather parts.
I would definitely get rid of that single pot m/c. They were fine for putting around the farm and rural roads but are just plain dangerous on modern highways.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Thanks, that write up helps alot.
Now is there a dual m/c that doesn't have to have the piston rod cut to fit? I don't have a way to weld it back together so a bolt in dual m/c that requires no mod to fit would be great if anybody knows.
Thanks!
Now is there a dual m/c that doesn't have to have the piston rod cut to fit? I don't have a way to weld it back together so a bolt in dual m/c that requires no mod to fit would be great if anybody knows.
Thanks!
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