Finally got the reader(after going to 4 different stores) and here are the codes: 14,23,62. I read what they mean in the book, but where should I start?
I'm in failsafe mode now with very hard shifting, what to do? Thanks for the help!

 

Oooops, sorry its a 93 f350 idi 4x2 crewcab 126000 mi

 

First off stop driving it to minimize further damage!

I do remember a 62 was excessive converter clutch applications primarily caused by a bad F.I.P.L (Fuel Injector Pump Lever) sensor.

A 14 I think is the rpm sensor.

And 23 I have no idea about.

Years ago I tossed my factory manuals and I regret it every time I think about it.

 

14 is rpm sensor, either bad sensor or faulty connections.
23- FIPL is out of range- check and or adjust as per my post on previous thread- 1.05-1.1 volts at idle, 3.8 not more than 4.3 volts wide open throttle- key on engine off. This is the MOST common problem with tranny problems.
62- Torque conveter clutch slipping-failure.

Check out the first two items as they are the cheapest and most likely at fault. that will likely fix the TC clutch problem as well.

 

Thanks alot Kevin, gonna test the fipl right now, where is the rpm sensor and how do I test it? btw, I disconnected the negative to clear the codes and shes runnin pretty smoothe right now, no more hard shifts (so far). Will post results soon, thanks again!

 

The tach is the big nut on the timing gear cover with two wires comming out of it. Remove and check continuity of the sensor away from any steel should read between 2000-3000 ohms.

 

You said you had a code reader, right?

Ford has a guage block that you put under the FIPL after you open the throttle and let the throttle return spring hold it, then set the code reader to the tone mode and it will beep faster or slower to tell you it is out of spec high or low while adjusting it.

You will get a solid tone when it is just right.

 

To set to specs:
With a warm engine and the idle speed set to your engine specs probably 650 in drive (curb idle).

Now with key on engine off. First connect the negative lead of a volt meter to the negative battery post, then place a paperclip straightened to slide up the side of the center wire for a good contact, touch the positive lead to the paperclip. Electrical connector must beconnected to the FIPL.

If your FIPL requires resetting loosen the small torx screws and attempt to attain the correct setting. You can loosen the large bolts on the bracket if necessary but try to retain the centering on the FIPL/blade.

Your trying to get closed throttle voltage: 1.1 V, wide open throttle voltage: minimum of 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.

If you can attain those #s then tighten the screws/bolts and ensure the voltage is at the correct setting after tightening. You can also do a slow sweep of the fuel lever from idle to WOT to see if there are any blanc (dead) spots, much easier with a really $$$ meter with capture mode. If you still find there are hard shifts or very soft slippery shifts you can adjust to suit your driving but be warned slippery shifts will burn the trans up.


DIESEL FIPL SENSOR INFO
DATE 1992
REASON
Early Black FIPL has High Failure Rate
RECOMMENDATION
Always replace the black colored early FIPL or any colored FIPL having 60 thousand or more miles with the late gray colored FIPL.
PART NUMBER
F2TZ-9B989-C

Tach sensor.....
A dead tach sender should/would send the automatic trans into a "failure management mode" (limp mode) with harsh engagements and firm shift feel and an abnormal shift schedule. It has no effect on a manual trans only the Tach readings.

Check the wires where they exit the big nut on the oil filler housing , known to short out due to bare wire.....

Replace the tach sender on the oil fill housing a big 1" nut with 2 wires. Ford only part Engine RPM sensor E5TZ-17B384-A about $50. You can remove and clean it but usually changed later too.

You can test it too, hold it in the air away from ferrous metal, using an ohm meter lead on each wire you need DC resistance between 2000-3000 ohms.

 

Well, tested both the fipl and the tach sensor with readings of about 1.1 to 4.2 and 1500. I cleared the codes yesterday but forgot to take the paper clip out and the next time I drove she was real erratic. So took the clip out and cleared the codes and we'll see how she does! Thanks again everyone. Now I just have to find where my oil leak is coming from!

 

14 is missing or erratic tach signal , or the engine dies while the truck was rolling , 23 is a fipl code and you will set it if you do not hold the throttle wide open during the test 62 is converter clucth slippage but it can be set by a faulty tach sensor , however your codes are not clear ,with engine off key on there should be codes for any hard faults or a pass code then the seperator code to identify memory codes example 11-10-14-23-62 would mean all memory codes 11 being pass no hard faults present 10 is the seperator code then the following codes are all memory codes , if you test it without holding the throttle open you would recieve 23-10-11 setting the fipl with a volt meter isnt as accurate as the factory method due to the cam on the injector pump alignment to the sensor , you can use the 13mm head of a bolt for the spacer the ford gauge block is .515 thick and also using the scanner with it , allow the scanner to beep out the codes and after the last code has finished press the o/d cancel button a few times and wait it will enter the adjustment mode quick beeps when you have went too high and slow beeps when it is too low and it will have a constant tone when adjusted correctly with the gauge