66 PU Starter won't stop
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 35
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From: Denver, Co
66 PU Starter won't stop
Hey guys- I needed to unhook my battery to get the starter to stop- I replaced the ingition switch and still have the problem. Does it sound like I have a bad relay?
Thanks, John
Thanks, John
Freshman User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 32
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From: Los Angeles, CA
When you reconnect the battery with the ign switch in the "on" position, does the starter engage again?
It seems most likely to me that if the ign switch is acting normally and springs back from the extreme clockwise cranking position, then the problem would have to be the solenoid on the fender as it is unlikely the wire that energizes the solenoid is finding a source of current on it's own.
Not much help I know, but all I've got at the moment.
Best of luck,
Gregory Glaser
It seems most likely to me that if the ign switch is acting normally and springs back from the extreme clockwise cranking position, then the problem would have to be the solenoid on the fender as it is unlikely the wire that energizes the solenoid is finding a source of current on it's own.
Not much help I know, but all I've got at the moment.
Best of luck,
Gregory Glaser
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,465
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From: Southern Alberta
The solenoid is almost definitely the problem. You can whack it with something and unstick it sometimes. Best to change it out asap. they run about 10-12 bucks, Take yours with you to the parts store (after you label the wires), those people are IDIOTS.
http://blueovaltruckparts.com/catalo...ducts_id=11699
http://blueovaltruckparts.com/catalo...ducts_id=11699
Last edited by Ringo Fonebone; Sep 1, 2007 at 02:06 PM.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 35
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From: Denver, Co
Yes the starter cranks when I hook up the battery - regardless whether the ignition switch is on or off- I thought the problem must be very basic- (like a short) though physically I can't see one. A solonoid could make this happen? I'll check it out.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,465
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From: Southern Alberta
yes a solenoid can absolutely cause those problems. Usually in an embarrassing situation, where you are at a gas station or somewhere in public , and people have come by to admire your truck. Start it up and the dang starter won't shut off.
Ask me how I know this
Ask me how I know this
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 62
Likes: 1
From: Patterson, CA
Originally Posted by Ringo Fonebone
yes a solenoid can absolutely cause those problems. Usually in an embarrassing situation, where you are at a gas station or somewhere in public , and people have come by to admire your truck. Start it up and the dang starter won't shut off.
Ask me how I know this
Ask me how I know this
Travis
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Denver, Co
Good story Slow64- I don't think I would have had the guts to wrestle with a running truck like that - that's a hero's story if you ask me.
Ringo- how do you know this?
Ringo- how do you know this?
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: Southern Alberta
LOL ...welll I know this because besides at a gas station, it happened to me in front of a liquor store and at a show-n-shine, which was REALLY embarrasing
That's how
Finally, I got tired of having a red face and bought a new one
That's how
Finally, I got tired of having a red face and bought a new one
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Asheville, NC
The solenoid is there strictly to control the starter motor itself. The wire (s) that slip-connect to the body of the solenoid will clear the ignition system if there is any question... Just unplug it/them, and see if the starter comes on with the battery. Buy the solenoid. So easy to install... be sure to disconnect the negative batt cable before getting near the metal of the truck with tools that are turning nuts, etc, that are connected to battery positive... I have seen some nice permanant arc burns on tools that took a hit of battery voltage.
When I got my '83, it was not running. Got it for free. Checked it out at the site, went to the store and bought a battery and a solenoid. Drove it home. Took 3 months to make it road-worthy again.
Anyway, the old solenoid would click but nothing happened at the starter. No voltage at the starter at all. I busted apart the old solenoid, and the terminals inside were burned away. Previous owner tells me that it went thru starters like water. Since I've had it, 3 years, have not changed the starter, or messed with it except when I checked the brushes in it when I got it.
Didnt mean to take your topic. I bet this is what is wrong with your truck.
When I got my '83, it was not running. Got it for free. Checked it out at the site, went to the store and bought a battery and a solenoid. Drove it home. Took 3 months to make it road-worthy again.
Anyway, the old solenoid would click but nothing happened at the starter. No voltage at the starter at all. I busted apart the old solenoid, and the terminals inside were burned away. Previous owner tells me that it went thru starters like water. Since I've had it, 3 years, have not changed the starter, or messed with it except when I checked the brushes in it when I got it.
Didnt mean to take your topic. I bet this is what is wrong with your truck.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 62
Likes: 1
From: Patterson, CA
Originally Posted by Holmesuser01
The solenoid is there strictly to control the starter motor itself. The wire (s) that slip-connect to the body of the solenoid will clear the ignition system if there is any question... Just unplug it/them, and see if the starter comes on with the battery. Buy the solenoid. So easy to install... be sure to disconnect the negative batt cable before getting near the metal of the truck with tools that are turning nuts, etc, that are connected to battery positive... I have seen some nice permanant arc burns on tools that took a hit of battery voltage.
When I got my '83, it was not running. Got it for free. Checked it out at the site, went to the store and bought a battery and a solenoid. Drove it home. Took 3 months to make it road-worthy again.
Anyway, the old solenoid would click but nothing happened at the starter. No voltage at the starter at all. I busted apart the old solenoid, and the terminals inside were burned away. Previous owner tells me that it went thru starters like water. Since I've had it, 3 years, have not changed the starter, or messed with it except when I checked the brushes in it when I got it.
Didnt mean to take your topic. I bet this is what is wrong with your truck.
When I got my '83, it was not running. Got it for free. Checked it out at the site, went to the store and bought a battery and a solenoid. Drove it home. Took 3 months to make it road-worthy again.
Anyway, the old solenoid would click but nothing happened at the starter. No voltage at the starter at all. I busted apart the old solenoid, and the terminals inside were burned away. Previous owner tells me that it went thru starters like water. Since I've had it, 3 years, have not changed the starter, or messed with it except when I checked the brushes in it when I got it.
Didnt mean to take your topic. I bet this is what is wrong with your truck.
Mine passes gas stations fine, while coasting downhill...in neutral. It's the uphill part that makes it so thirsty.
Travis
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 231
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From: Gaffney, SC
While we are on the subject, a clutch safety or neutral safety switch seems like a very important upgrade. I can remember several times having the truck lurch on me because I forgot it was in gear, and these days I have three toddlers about the house and they like to play in the truck (scary, I know). Has anyone found a decent way to add this? I tried to find an aftermarket kit online but didn't see one.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 62
Likes: 1
From: Patterson, CA
Originally Posted by Orange '63
While we are on the subject, a clutch safety or neutral safety switch seems like a very important upgrade. I can remember several times having the truck lurch on me because I forgot it was in gear, and these days I have three toddlers about the house and they like to play in the truck (scary, I know). Has anyone found a decent way to add this? I tried to find an aftermarket kit online but didn't see one.
Although, I bet one could probably be made for the clutch pedal using a brake light switch wired into the ignition for the cranking circuit. Any thoughts wiring gurus??
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,375
Likes: 5
From: seattle
On the neutral safety switch idea...you could install a master cutoff switch...that and a properly adjusted and consistently used E brake would go a long ways to prevent mishaps...
Funny...I saw an old Leave It To Beaver last night on Nick at Night...Beaver and a friend were pretending to drive Wards car in the driveway with everyone gone...took off e brake and it ended up in the street by gravity...No harm, but Wally got a ticket for driving a car w/o a license...just for moving the tank 10 feet out of the street where it was blocking both directions of traffic....
- cs65
Funny...I saw an old Leave It To Beaver last night on Nick at Night...Beaver and a friend were pretending to drive Wards car in the driveway with everyone gone...took off e brake and it ended up in the street by gravity...No harm, but Wally got a ticket for driving a car w/o a license...just for moving the tank 10 feet out of the street where it was blocking both directions of traffic....
- cs65
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,351
Likes: 1
From: Escondido, CA
You know you can make a mounting bracket that attaches on the bottom or side of the tranny. Pick up a micro switch that opens the "S" circuit when the shift lever is not in neutral or park. Splice in a few extra feet of wire to run down to and up from the new switch. And you now have a neutral safety switch. It seems a little over whelming to try at first but the only way to get better at fabricating is to start somewhere. It may take a few times to get the bracket right but once you the general shape it'll come together.