New here,350 won't start
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New here,350 won't start
Hi there, looks like is the place.
I'm Gerard, live just south of Boston.
My ford is an E350 1995 van, 5.8L
My rad has been leaking a bit but not really bad yet.
No overheating etc.
Coming home late night the ignition just cuts out.
Won't re start.
Got it towed home, I'm thinking maybe the steam from the rad wet the ignition system.
I pulled 2 codes O2 sensor ( it was recently changed so that might be an old code) and 212 SPOUT signal missing .
I gave it 2 days to dry out but still no firing, not even a pop/splutter.
Engine cranks strong.
Is the Spout connector behind the battery someplace?
Not that I know what to do with it.!
How can I go about diagnosing this?.
I have decent tools to do most work and would prefer to try do it myself if possible.
Other question, how the heck do ya get this radiator out?
The 4 bolts seem to come in from the front but the air conditioner radiotor is in the way, I can't see how to get at the bolt heads.
I'm Gerard, live just south of Boston.
My ford is an E350 1995 van, 5.8L
My rad has been leaking a bit but not really bad yet.
No overheating etc.
Coming home late night the ignition just cuts out.
Won't re start.
Got it towed home, I'm thinking maybe the steam from the rad wet the ignition system.
I pulled 2 codes O2 sensor ( it was recently changed so that might be an old code) and 212 SPOUT signal missing .
I gave it 2 days to dry out but still no firing, not even a pop/splutter.
Engine cranks strong.
Is the Spout connector behind the battery someplace?
Not that I know what to do with it.!
How can I go about diagnosing this?.
I have decent tools to do most work and would prefer to try do it myself if possible.
Other question, how the heck do ya get this radiator out?
The 4 bolts seem to come in from the front but the air conditioner radiotor is in the way, I can't see how to get at the bolt heads.
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
The rad comes out from the top after you open the hood, remove the rad shrowd and fan, drain the coolant, and then disconnect the rad hoses and tranny lines.
No spout signal is very likely a dead ignition TFI module, it should be on the fender or firewall mounted on a heatsink.
No spout signal is very likely a dead ignition TFI module, it should be on the fender or firewall mounted on a heatsink.
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Originally Posted by Conanski
The rad comes out from the top after you open the hood, remove the rad shrowd and fan, drain the coolant, and then disconnect the rad hoses and tranny lines.
No spout signal is very likely a dead ignition TFI module, it should be on the fender or firewall mounted on a heatsink.
No spout signal is very likely a dead ignition TFI module, it should be on the fender or firewall mounted on a heatsink.
Should I pull the old one first and take it when buying a new one?
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Originally Posted by jonesg
Ok I removed the battery and found it, where can I buy them, I can't find anything online.
Should I pull the old one first and take it when buying a new one?
Should I pull the old one first and take it when buying a new one?
the top nut holding the heatsink is inaccesible.!
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Originally Posted by Conanski
No spout signal is very likely a dead ignition TFI module, it should be on the fender or firewall mounted on a heatsink.
Put the battery on the charger to get a healthy crank.
I sprayed some starter fluid in the intake, but still nothing.
Is there a logical approach , I'm thinking ignition still.
I pulled the codes again, all clear, but wouldn't it have to actually start and run to trigger a code? the battery was out overnite so that probably cleared the codes.?
Problem is the van is loaded with stuff that I'll have to move before I can get the engine cover removed inside the van, So I'm thinking to test for ignition spark, correct?
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
I hope the TFI you replaced was a black one also, as most places will try to sell you the wrong (gray) one.
Sounds like you may have a bad PIP sensor inside your distributor.
It is easier to replace the distributor than to replace the PIP sensor unless you have a press.
Sounds like you may have a bad PIP sensor inside your distributor.
It is easier to replace the distributor than to replace the PIP sensor unless you have a press.
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Originally Posted by subford
I hope the TFI you replaced was a black one also, as most places will try to sell you the wrong (gray) one.
Sounds like you may have a bad PIP sensor inside your distributor.
It is easier to replace the distributor than to replace the PIP sensor unless you have a press.
Sounds like you may have a bad PIP sensor inside your distributor.
It is easier to replace the distributor than to replace the PIP sensor unless you have a press.
The dealer was out of stock, their price was $160.!
I don't know where anyone finds them cheaper.
Maybe I'll try autozone for another.
I'll continue with my plan to test for HT spark.?
Just got off work.
I'm positive I'll find a no spark condition because I cam smell fuel at the exh pipe,
so then what, go ahead and buy another distributor?
Thanks for replyin guys, I'm lost without a bit of guidance.
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Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
The Gray one goes with the Push-Start System and the Black one goes with the CCD System. The pins do different things on the two modules.
Edit
The 1993 F-series was the last one to use the Gray one.
Edit
The 1993 F-series was the last one to use the Gray one.
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Originally Posted by subford
The Gray one goes with the Push-Start System and the Black one goes with the CCD System. The pins do different things on the two modules.
Edit
The 1993 F-series was the last one to use the Gray one.
Edit
The 1993 F-series was the last one to use the Gray one.
aarrgh! well I told em when they gave me the part it looked wrong.
What is a push start system?
I want to know what to tell them when I take it back.
What does CCD mean ?
I pulled the air filter box and air pipes out of the way to get a look at the distributor (leaving it alone for now) , how do you guys work on these things? seriously, do you use a ladder? I can barely touch anything on the engine, everything is just out of reach.
Anyhow, no spark using a spare spark plug so...
I do a lot of work on my 740 volvo, straight 4 cyl, its a dream compared to this. Thanks.
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by jonesg
What is a push start system? .
They had two types of modules, one mounted on the distributor (Type system “A”) and a remote mounted module (Type system “D”). Example of the System “D” below. GRAY MODULE.
Originally Posted by jonesg
What does CCD mean ?
It is an Ignition System that Ford used from 1994 – 1996+.
Ford called this System “H” and an example of SYSTEM “H” is below also. [/QUOTE]
Originally Posted by jonesg
I pulled the air filter box and air pipes out of the way to get a look at the distributor (leaving it alone for now) , how do you guys work on these things? seriously, do you use a ladder? .
/
Last edited by subford; Sep 1, 2007 at 07:08 AM.
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Ahh, ok, thanks for the decription, I went to NAPA and got the black TFI (after they tried to give the grey one too).
Still no start, I've got the battery on chg, try again in a while with ether.
Then should I start at the coil?
Look for 12v on the smaller wires?
Thanks again.
Still no start, I've got the battery on chg, try again in a while with ether.
Then should I start at the coil?
Look for 12v on the smaller wires?
Thanks again.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
The gray will not keep it from starting but you will get errors.
I still think as I said above all of this that it is the PIP sensor.
But yes go and check for power at the + side of the coil with the key on and see if the other side (tech, - ) flashes while you crank it.
Also check that plugs wires at the coil.
I still think as I said above all of this that it is the PIP sensor.
But yes go and check for power at the + side of the coil with the key on and see if the other side (tech, - ) flashes while you crank it.
Also check that plugs wires at the coil.
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Originally Posted by subford
The gray will not keep it from starting but you will get errors.
I still think as I said above all of this that it is the PIP sensor.
But yes go and check for power at the + side of the coil with the key on and see if the other side (tech, - ) flashes while you crank it.
Also check that plugs wires at the coil.
I still think as I said above all of this that it is the PIP sensor.
But yes go and check for power at the + side of the coil with the key on and see if the other side (tech, - ) flashes while you crank it.
Also check that plugs wires at the coil.
I only tested the power wires to coil with ignition on, not cranking.
Then I broke one of the wires (grey/orange) and had to remove the coil mounting bracket to get in there with soldering iron, typical.
That little poblem is fixed at least.
Nothing coming from the HT post thus far anyway.
So if the pip is dead, it will prevent the coil from firing on the HT side.?
The distributor looks like a bear to remove, only one bolt maybe but its a reach, should I remove the cap and leave all the plug wires in place and just leave the cap to one side, it would save me from having to figga out which plug wire goes where.
, plugs/wires/cap etc are all new 2 months ago.
Is there a special tool required to remove the dist' ,
the bolt looks odd, very low profile.
Any excuse to buy another tool.
Thanks for keeping me going and have a good nite, Gerard.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by jonesg
Then I broke one of the wires (grey/orange) and had to remove the coil mounting bracket to get in there with soldering iron, typical.
That little poblem is fixed at least.
That little poblem is fixed at least.
Originally Posted by jonesg
Nothing coming from the HT post thus far anyway.
So if the pip is dead, it will prevent the coil from firing on the HT side.?
So if the pip is dead, it will prevent the coil from firing on the HT side.?
Originally Posted by jonesg
The distributor looks like a bear to remove, only one bolt maybe but its a reach, should I remove the cap and leave all the plug wires in place and just leave the cap to one side, it would save me from having to figga out which plug wire goes where.
, plugs/wires/cap etc are all new 2 months ago.
, plugs/wires/cap etc are all new 2 months ago.
Originally Posted by jonesg
Is there a special tool required to remove the dist' ,
the bolt looks odd, very low profile.
Any excuse to buy another tool.
the bolt looks odd, very low profile.
Any excuse to buy another tool.
/
Last edited by subford; Sep 1, 2007 at 11:36 PM.
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Hmm, the orange grey wire has a jumper crimped onto it just near the coil, is that the engine kill alarm wire?
I suspect it grounds out the ignition when the alram is set.
The 2 prong connector on the coil are green corroded, so I'll get a new coil regardless.
I pulled the dizzy cap, the rotor is rough along the edge and the posts inside the cap are black and rough looking, it looks a lot more worn than I woulda thought, I doubt theres 500 miles on this cap.
I plan to install a new coil and cap/rotor to see what happens first.
To my eye, the rotor looks flimsy compared to the one in my volvo, is it typical or did the mechanic use cheap parts?
I suspect it grounds out the ignition when the alram is set.
The 2 prong connector on the coil are green corroded, so I'll get a new coil regardless.
I pulled the dizzy cap, the rotor is rough along the edge and the posts inside the cap are black and rough looking, it looks a lot more worn than I woulda thought, I doubt theres 500 miles on this cap.
I plan to install a new coil and cap/rotor to see what happens first.
To my eye, the rotor looks flimsy compared to the one in my volvo, is it typical or did the mechanic use cheap parts?