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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

1954 Ford F100 Problem

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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 01:04 PM
  #31  
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The stock rear end is only good to about 150 HP.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 01:16 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by AXracer
The stock rear end is only good to about 150 HP.

So, you do suggest a 9"!? Because I asked the guys from roush. They told me that it would work with the stock....

Cheers
Chrsitian
 
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 01:38 PM
  #33  
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There is a difference between "work with" and "a good idea". The stock rear end would work if it is a reasonable ratio and you drove it like a family sedan. If you have a heavy gas pedal foot and/or will occasionally "demonstate" the power of that engine, the life expectancy will be short.
A 9" would be the ultimate choice, but a Ford 8.8" would also work and might be a bit easier for you to locate since they were used in 77-96 RWD Volvos.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 02:10 PM
  #34  
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Run the stock rear end till it breaks and if it don't break don't worry about it.
Jeff
 
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 02:17 PM
  #35  
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I don`t think I could run that kind of power for long without breaking the rear end.
I might get by but after a while the temptation would be to great not to use the loud petal.....If it`s there I would like it too much.
 

Last edited by Fomoko1; Dec 12, 2007 at 02:20 PM.
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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 05:05 AM
  #36  
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Found one in Germany. But it costs 3950 Euro. Will try to find something cheaper.

Currie Stage II Hinterachse
Übersetzung 4,11 : 1
Spurweite 59" (149,86 mm)
9" Ford HD Housing, Trac Lock Differentialsperre
31 spline performance axle package
9-plus nodular iron sportsman case
9-plus nodular iron big bearing pinion supprt

Cheers
Christian
 
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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 07:15 AM
  #37  
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That's a racing rear axle, not one out of a stock vehicle. It is based on and uses some Ford 9" parts, but most of it, including the housing is built specifically for racing. You would not be happy running 4.11 gear ratio for long unless you were going to do nothing but drag racing. Something in the 3.0 - 3.7 range would be more suitable for the highway.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 09:26 AM
  #38  
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Thanks for the answer AXracer!


Just got an other mail from them. They told me, that they build the axles as it fits most for the customer. Gear ratio, wheel base, ...

I got to say that this is really a good forum. I can ask whatever I want and there is always at least somebody with a good answer

Cheers
Christian
 
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Old May 29, 2008 | 10:47 AM
  #39  
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Hello.

Been away for a while and didn't have any time to work on my F100 Truck. So, it is still not runnin. But I do have already new cylinder head.

I did includ some pictures of a piston. Maybe there is somebody who could tell me which manufacturer this is and where I could get it?

Or do you think that it will be smarter to replace the 8 pistons?

Hopefully your rides are runnin better than mine.


Christian




https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=190034&.jpg

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=190035&.jpg

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=190036&.jpg

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=190037&.jpg
 
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Old May 29, 2008 | 12:54 PM
  #40  
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Those are already .060 oversized pistons, and it looks like something bounced around in the cylinders as well. I'd suggest taking the block and heads to a machinist and having them checked and measured before investing any money in parts for it I'd say it's probably toast.
 
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Old May 29, 2008 | 03:00 PM
  #41  
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Hello.

Don't think that it will be necessary to take the block to a machinist.

I don't understand so much of this game, but I did check the piston shaft yet and did feel a big buckle in it. So, think I got to put it away and get a new one.

Damn


Christian
 
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Old May 29, 2008 | 03:36 PM
  #42  
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Christian, what happened to replacing the motor? I thought you had ruled out rebuilding.
 
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Old May 29, 2008 | 07:49 PM
  #43  
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I suggested taking it to the machinist to check the block's measurements and condition. I'd suspect whatever damaged that piston (and bent the connecting rod, which is what I assume you are refering to as the "piston shaft"?) likely scored the cylinder wall as well. If the block is damaged at all, and has already been bored out .060 oversized it may not be able to be bored again to clean it up. A hit hard enough to bend the connecting rod may have damaged the crank as well.
Are the other pistons .060 oversized as well? If so it's likely the engine has been rebuilt at least once before, or as we say "rode hard and put up wet" before you got it. Parts have gone thru that engine at minimum so it should be completely dissassembled, given a complete inspection and all passages cleaned out then completely rebuilt. Otherwise just replacing the one piston may be putting a band-aid on a shotgun blast.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 03:40 PM
  #44  
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Hello.

Yep, all the pistons are .060

The buckle I menioned is in the bore. Will try to get a photo of it tomorrow.

And yes, did find an engine in Germany.

It's a 302. 030 bored. new pistons, new cylinder heads, ... Will get more details today or tomorrow by e-mail....

Down Town Garage-CB US Cars this is the link of the garage, where they buîlt the engines... They got a good evaluation on ebay....


Christian
 
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 12:24 AM
  #45  
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Ewww! Something wrong you can feel in the cylinder bore sounds fatal. That 302 sounds much better a choice.
 
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