94 econoline dies while driving
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94 econoline dies while driving
i realize this probably isnt the right place for this thread but i didnt see a section for econolines other than the 60's. so sorry for that.
anyways my van has had this problem for awhile, it runs all well and fine for a little while then it just dies,( its very inconsistant but have notice most likely to happen around a turn or bump) it doesn't really do any missing just dies like someone turned the key off. but it starts right back up and will run fun again until it does it again. any suggestions on what this could be?
BTW i dont know if this will help or not but there is NO check engine light on or anything. should i try to run a code check anyway to see if i could find anything?
thanks
anyways my van has had this problem for awhile, it runs all well and fine for a little while then it just dies,( its very inconsistant but have notice most likely to happen around a turn or bump) it doesn't really do any missing just dies like someone turned the key off. but it starts right back up and will run fun again until it does it again. any suggestions on what this could be?
BTW i dont know if this will help or not but there is NO check engine light on or anything. should i try to run a code check anyway to see if i could find anything?
thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,140
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From: Oak Harbor, OH
Check for codes, on a '94 it's an OBD I system, and there may be codes but no check engine light. It sounds like you have a loose wire somewhere to me. I'd be checking your ground wires from the battery to the body, and to the frame/engine. Also check the wiring AT the fuel tank. If the connector is loose on top of the tank it could do that.
BTW, this is the 1968 to PRESENT (meaning 2007) van forum, so you put it in the right place. Welcome to FTE.
BTW, this is the 1968 to PRESENT (meaning 2007) van forum, so you put it in the right place. Welcome to FTE.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
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Absolutely! Most Fault Codes are supposed to be stored in the onboard computer's diagnostic memory, even w/o CEL.
Intermitent faults can be very hard to solve. I finally bought my own Fault Code Reader so I could hop out & plug it in when my E-150 was actually acting up. Of course it ran fine in front of a couple of mechanic friends & the parts stores failed to find any codes. Once I had my own reader I solved the mystery in short order.
One of my lessons was that FI problems mimic ignition problems. Try driving around w/o the 'dog house' & be prepared to pull a spark plug wire when it dies. Have a spare plug handy to plug in & lay it on good ground, then crank the motor & look for a strong spark. This will confirm if ignition is good.
From the little information posted, my wild guess is the infamous Throttle Position Sensor, particularly if your van has an aftermarket cheapie in it.
Originally Posted by nate_is_the_1
should i try to run a code check anyway to see if i could find anything?
One of my lessons was that FI problems mimic ignition problems. Try driving around w/o the 'dog house' & be prepared to pull a spark plug wire when it dies. Have a spare plug handy to plug in & lay it on good ground, then crank the motor & look for a strong spark. This will confirm if ignition is good.
From the little information posted, my wild guess is the infamous Throttle Position Sensor, particularly if your van has an aftermarket cheapie in it.
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Joined: May 2006
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I would check the camshaft position sensor. I had one going bad and it just shut the motor off. Sometimes it would just restart with no problems and other time it would take a few times at turning it over. Mine was an iintermitting problem that would not send a code. The wiring going to the sensor maybe cracked or corroding, so when you turn or hit a bump it is loosing its connection
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Oak Harbor, OH
Just an FYI there is NO cam position sensor. It's a PIP sensor and all it does is tell the TFI module whether or not to fire the coil. It's an internal part of the distributor and it CAN be replaced by itself. It's easier to just replace the entire distributor though.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,140
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From: Oak Harbor, OH
Remove the #1 plug (first on on the pass side), have a buddy crawl under the van with a big (1/2 drive, 18 to 24 inch handle) breaker bar and socket to fit the crank bolt. Rotate the engine until you feel air come out of the plug hole. There will be TWO TDC, verify that you are at the correct one by checking the mark on the balancer against the gauge on the block. You may need to clean the balancer off to see the numbers. That will get you back to where it will run and you can set the timing to the correct spec from there.
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oh great it has to be the hardest one to get to..lol just curious could i cheat and just turn the balancer around until the gauge matches up ( i think its supposed to read "0" right??) and also thr factory timing for the van is 10 degrees right? it has the 5.0 in it. thanks for the help!!
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by nate_is_the_1
oh great it has to be the hardest one to get to..lol just curious could i cheat and just turn the balancer around until the gauge matches up ( i think its supposed to read "0" right??) and also thr factory timing for the van is 10 degrees right? it has the 5.0 in it. thanks for the help!!
The PIP sensor is also the camshaft position sensor as the window of the distributor armature is not the same for #1 and gives a smaller PIP Signature.
The PCM Computer uses this Signature PIP for the camshaft position.
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ok somethings not right. i took out the #1 plug and turned the crank til the piston came on its compression stroke. but looking at the timing marks its on BTC and when i move it to "0" it wont start and if i leave it on BTC it wont start.
i also have the rotor pointing towards the #1 cylinder and everything. all it does is jsut turn over. and btw i check the spark and it DOES have spark. anyone have an idea of what im doing wrong
i also have the rotor pointing towards the #1 cylinder and everything. all it does is jsut turn over. and btw i check the spark and it DOES have spark. anyone have an idea of what im doing wrong
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by nate_is_the_1
ok somethings not right. i took out the #1 plug and turned the crank til the piston came on its compression stroke. but looking at the timing marks its on BTC and when i move it to "0" it wont start and if i leave it on BTC it wont start.
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ok new problem (i think). ok i think i have the timing set right i checked it with the timing light and its shows 10 degress BTC. where is where i was told it should be.
its starts everytime but it has a huge miss in it. it will barely idle by itself and sometimes dies. if you keep the gas down it doesnt die but just misses real bad. i check the codes again and im getting one for closed tps low voltage and low tps under 0.6 volts.. could this be the problem?
its starts everytime but it has a huge miss in it. it will barely idle by itself and sometimes dies. if you keep the gas down it doesnt die but just misses real bad. i check the codes again and im getting one for closed tps low voltage and low tps under 0.6 volts.. could this be the problem?
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by nate_is_the_1
ok new problem (i think). ok i think i have the timing set right i checked it with the timing light and its shows 10 degress BTC. where is where i was told it should be.
its starts everytime but it has a huge miss in it. it will barely idle by itself and sometimes dies. if you keep the gas down it doesnt die but just misses real bad. i check the codes again and im getting one for closed tps low voltage and low tps under 0.6 volts.. could this be the problem?
its starts everytime but it has a huge miss in it. it will barely idle by itself and sometimes dies. if you keep the gas down it doesnt die but just misses real bad. i check the codes again and im getting one for closed tps low voltage and low tps under 0.6 volts.. could this be the problem?