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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 09:07 PM
  #1  
Wylde1's Avatar
Wylde1
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Coolant?

It's getting harder and harder to find the good old Green antifreeze from years gone by. I think I know of one place that might still sell Rad 2000 green antifreeze. Everywhere else seems to just carry Prestone All Makes antifreeze. That's what I used last time in my 1994 Aerostar 3.0, but since then I've replaced the rad twice and now I've got to rplace the heater core for the second time as well. Before each replacement the cooling system was flushed.

So I've been wondering if anyone's tried the newer G-05 coolant that Ford and Chrysler have been using for the last few years?


Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 01:12 AM
  #2  
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you've got electrolysis occurring in your cooling system...
common problem in Aeros
small ground straps that corrode and are easily broken from engine to frame
also lots of dissimilar metals in cooling system, iron, steel, stainless st., copper, aluminum

check DC voltage from coolant at opening of radiator to neg. battery lead....
must be less than 0.2v....if higher, flush and new coolant with distilled water.
NO tap water

add ground straps from radiator and heater cores to chassis/frame

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_200308/ai_n9294705/pg_3
 

Last edited by 96_4wdr; Aug 28, 2007 at 01:16 AM.
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 09:11 AM
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If you do not have easy access to distilled or RO water, buy premixed antifreeze. Never use tap water. I have not had any problems with the cooling systems on any of our vehicles for a long time.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 11:51 AM
  #4  
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Wylde1, FWIW

Sources for Distilled water are Grocery Stores, Big Box stores, Pharmacies & Medical Supply Houses & Chemical Supply houses.

I have been using the "permanent" type red/Orange coolant since it became available.

I changed it once since then. There was nothing wrong with it. That' back in 2001 maybe? I find it remains stable, does nothing wrong even in oppressive heat here. The only problems I had have been a worn out cap & leaky hose connection. I've drained my system to work on it. My coolant looks great.

96_4wdr,
Thanx for sharing that "current value tip".

That's a new one to me. Great Info as usual! Altho I'm aware of electrolytical degeneration in multi metal cooling systems from semi's we owned. They used Perry Water Filters which controlled system Ph levels & kept cooling systems stable & within tolerance over long lifetimes too.

FBp
 
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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 09:38 PM
  #5  
Wylde1's Avatar
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From: Ottawa Canada
Originally Posted by 96_4wdr
you've got electrolysis occurring in your cooling system...
common problem in Aeros
small ground straps that corrode and are easily broken from engine to frame
also lots of dissimilar metals in cooling system, iron, steel, stainless st., copper, aluminum

check DC voltage from coolant at opening of radiator to neg. battery lead....
must be less than 0.2v....if higher, flush and new coolant with distilled water.
NO tap water

add ground straps from radiator and heater cores to chassis/frame

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_200308/ai_n9294705/pg_3
Years ago there was a small ground strap that went from one of the starter bolts to the frame. It broke. I never got around to replacing that.....

I checked the voltage from the coolant. It fluctuates between .35 to .52

How do you attach the ground straps to the aluminum rad & heater core? Do you solder wires on? clip them on?

Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 05:09 AM
  #6  
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xlt4wd90
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You can't solder to aluminum, so you will have to either clip a wire on, or use a screw to fasten the wire to some place where you can make a hole for the screw.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 09:55 AM
  #7  
96_4wdr's Avatar
96_4wdr
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From: Washington state
http://www.solder-it.com/solderpaste.asp
 
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