Hey i was wheeling last sunday and ended up hydrolocking my engine. To start i have a 95 F350 with the 351W and E4OD trans. I pulled the plugs and then cranked the engine over to let all the water out. After putting the plugs back in and getting it running again I had a massive valve tap. I went to tech school and grad top honers as mechanic. I figured that i eithre bent the valves, pushrods, or i collpased the lifters. I pulled it apart the next day or so and i took the manifold off and the front 2 bolts snapped in the heads. After getting the lower manifold off i took the pushrods out and rolled them on a table and they were all stright. I was looking at the valves when i took the valve coves off i didnt see any loose or bent. They one thing I forgot to do was check the valve gap. When i did take the heads off the 4th cylinder on the drivers side the valve was all staned from the water im guessing. The casting number on the heads are E7TE. I was tring to find on here about the heads and cant seem to find one that answers my question. Will any head with the E7TE casting number work? Mustangs and other 5.0's also have the same E7TE number and it is cheaper to get Mustang heads then the 351w truck heads. There easier to get. Staped into the head is also 22 PA. I saw that mustang ones have 16 PA. Thanks Chris

 

The 302 (5.0) heads are attached to the block with 7/16 bolts whereas the 351s use 1/2 bolts. So if you use the former you'll have to ream out the head bolt holes. I would think that all E7TE heads start out as the same casting, so the differences will be bolt hole size, possibly valve size, etc.
But can't you just carefully drill out the broken pieces of bolt left in the heads?

 

I could but i got the truck from my friends dad that owns a landscaping buisness and he used it for snow plowing. When I got the truck with 96K on it the plugs were never changed and the left side ex manifold was leaking. I went to change the plugs and do a full tune up and ended up snaping the 1st plug on the drivers side. I did manage to get the plug out and retap the hole but it always leaked and it blew a few plugs out. Also 1 of the ex man bolts were snapped in the head also. I could helicoil the plug hole now thats its out of the truck but I would rather get new/reman heads for peace of mind. So the head is kinda messed up other then the hydrolocking. It took me a week of spraying the plugs in the morning and night, with PB blaster, WD-40, and Liquid Wrench HD to get the rest of the plugs out without snapping them. The plugs were so rusted. The heads are also kinda crusty also.

 

Well I can see now why you want new heads. That casting is quite common anyhow so it makes sense to replace them.

 

Most Def. Does anyone know the valve sizes of the 5.0 and the 5.8? Trying to see if I just get performance heads for my mustang and put the stocks on my truck.

 

E7TE casting has 1.78/1.54 valves in it regardless what motor it was on.
You didn't mention in the original post but I hope you changed the oil in that motor....

 

now would be a good time to upgrade to a set of edelbrock aluminum heads , iron gt40 heads or perhaps some AFR's.

 

Well I didnt change the oil caus its so clean still. I did drain it tho when I started to take it apart just incase I had to drop the pan. I sware there was no water in that oil it was so clean. Still had 2500K on oil change.

 

So how does a "top honers mechanic" check for bent or loose valves with out pulling the heads off.....

 

I guess i neglected to mention that the heads are off. Pulled the valves and rolled them on the table also. Some times I leave out critical info. I dont remember if I mentioned that the intake valve on the 4th cylinder on the drivers side looks all stained from the water. Its wierd. I think there lies my problem. But I dove hom from the pines where I wheeling and it was a good 2 hrs back so i dont see it just being stained from pulling it apart.

"When i did take the heads off the 4th cylinder on the drivers side the valve was all staned from the water im guessing."
from 1st post.

 

I just got my reman heads today. They are 5.0 heads. They cost me alot less then if I had got the "propper" heads. I did drill out the head bolt holes and got the heads all cleaned up. I am just waiting for my new lifters to come. I am going to port match the heads and the intake and the exhaust as they are a bit off. I should prob buy the Chiltons book. Money is low at the moment lol. Paid 150 for both heads, and 60 for the lifters. Got to love ebay.

 

If you are going to be grinding on those new heads, remove the valves before you start. Keep them in order so they go back in the same hole.
If not you will end up with junk heads real quick because of the metal files getting into the guides....they need to be real clean and lubed real well.

 

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you'd better go and pull the whole motor out now, don't waste time bolting another head onm cause that's not going to fix the noise. The noise you're hearing is a bent connecting rod (or rods), not bent valves. Sucking water down the intake isn't going to bend valves, it bends connecting rods, water does not compress.

 

i agree to that. your already down so why not pull the motor and inspect the bottom end. does the motor turn over with the heads off right now?

 

Ill put it back together and see how it sounds. I dont really have the time or money to get a block or change the rods. If it still makes the sound I will look into getting a block or a stroker setup.