Good Morning all,
Or at least I hope your having a better one than I am. I need some help. I have been reading as many post as I could over the pas couple of days before asking for help. Here's what I got. 02 PSD 4X4. 175,000 miles. Stock. 6637 filter. Deleted muffler. No other modifications.

I have got a no start gremlin that comes and goes as it pleases. No truck has not started for 4 days. Here is what I have tried:

1.CPS- bought new 1 and installed= no fix
2. checked for loose connections= no dice- couldn't find anything loose.
3. checked for loose cheap gold colored nut= no dice-it was tight
4. checked for worn wires=no dice- could't find any thing worn.
5. checked fuel bowl for fuel pressure= bowl filled when key was turned w/ steady stream.
6. checked oil level in HPOP= good to go about 3/4 below the top.
7. No oil leaks or fuel leaks other than my d@mbA$$ spilling fuel in the valley while checking to see if the fuel bowl would fill when I turned the key(removed filter to check).
8. Replaced ICP sensor w/ new 1 from Ford= started and ran fine for 3 weeks and no start symptoms as listed above came back.

This time I unplugged ICP sensor and tried to start. Cranked but did not fire. Plugged it back in and tried. Cranked but no start.

I then unplugged the EBV sensor in front of the HPOP and the truck started right up. Drove it home and the next morning it would not start. Tried the above again and no start. Pulled both batteries and charged them seperate. Put em back in the truck after full charged and truck cranked good as usual but no start.

During all of the above processes. SES light never came on and the truck is not throwing codes. I did take it to the dealership the first time the problem came up and the truck sat there over night. I got a call from them and they said that the truck is starting/running fine w/ no codes. They did say that the ICP was reading irratic between 300 and 500 whatever that meant. That is why I replaced it.

Now, when I go to start the truck the dash lights/WTS light comes on and goes of as usual but during cranking the battery light is on and flickering and the WTS light comes on and stays on until I stop cranking.

Anyone experience something similar? Any help would be great as I am trying to fix today so I will be in and out of the garage. Thanks guys...

 

If you are not sure of the battery condition replace them..

The reason the ICP was between 3-500 is the IPR may have some junk in it or it may be stuck...Or maybe an injector problem, but they arent usually intermittant...

Find someone that has a PSD capable scanner & have them read ICP & IPR DC% while cranking,, If the IPR% increases ,but the ICP does not , the IPR may need to be replace or cleaned ,,,

Cleaning instructions ...here......Disregard the pic of the pipe wrench on the threads of the valve, it goes on the small tube.....

 

When the truck does start. Does it have a miss? If so, it could be one or more Injectors or the IDM or the Injector Harness.

Run a Injector Buzz Test, and see if all Injectors sound the same.

 

It sounds like bad battery/batteries. Maybe. Check voltage on batteries with meter while cranking. Shouldn't fall much below 10volts. Any smoke while Cranking? Does your tach move any while cranking? Did your truck run/drive good when it was last running?

 

When the truck did start it ran like a champ. didn't miss a beat and turbo spooled up as normal when I put my foot in it. The problem has been that the truck will start and run fine for a few weeks and then I doesn't wanna start just cranks.

Batteries are two new optima reds. 1 is a 720CCA w/910 CA and the other is a 820CCA w/980CA

 

Has the alternator been checked lately?....


IMHO....Both of the batteries should be the same size.....

 

If both are over the specified neccessary cranking amps for the truck, would it make a difference? The reason why I ask is because I wanted Optimas but, in my area these were the only two I could get a hold of at the time.

Any other Ideas?? Thanks for the responses so far... Keep em' coming guys. I gotta get this thing runing..

 

Did you by chance get fuel down into any plugs or connections when the fuel bowl ran over. I would pull all the connections on the topside of the engine and clean them with some sort of cleaner and make sure of a good connection. Make sure the connection on the IPR is good and clean. Have another look at all you harness connection on the drivers side around the master cylinder. May even want to unplug and have a look at as many as you can, clean and replug.
I don't think differant size batteries would make that much differance as long a the weakest one is big enough. One question,,,, Where did you get you CPS? Several have had problems with after market CPSs.

 

Connections are clean. Its was a small amount of fuel that was spilled. Not much at all. The truck has had these same problems before that ever happened anyway.

Got the CPS from Berge Ford and I got w/ the deisel tech there to make sure I had the right one..

 

I know you've replaced the CPS. Did it run at all after that? I've replaced a CPS before and it my engine ran for a few minutes and died again or it is possible to get a defect. I would try another one to be sure.
also try plugging in your Block Heater to warm the oil to Operating Temp to see if it starts easier.
You need to check codes to get an idea of where to start.
Run Injector Buzz Test.

 

Ok, looks like changing your ICP is what fixed it last time. Right? It ran fine for 3 weeks, then you turned it off and it hasn't started since. Right? Does it even try to start? Does you Tach move while cranking?? Since the ICP seems to at least part of the solution, have another look at it, pull the wires of and look on the top and see if you can see any oil there. They have been know to leak when bad. You could also replace you IPR if you wanted to throw more parts at it. The two are closely connected. Here's a link on cleaning and rebuilding one if you want to try: http://cw-diesel.com/LuxSite/IPRInfo.htm.. I tried it and it did seem to help for a while, still wound up replacing it. Mine finally got to where it wouldn't start, but ran badly before it got to that point.