Charging Problem
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 803
Likes: 0
From: Bobcaygeon Ont.
Charging Problem
Hey guys hows it going. Having a tough time with my charging system. I replaced my alternator 6 months ago and it died last week. I got a new one (under warrenty) and replaced it tonight. I noticed that it was over charging. The lights flicker up and down,but if i turn the air and the headlights on it seems to be fine. Charges about 13.8 volts but when there off it charges over 14 volts and the lights flicker again. There is 2 wires for the charge field. One is light green with a red stripe and thats the ground. The other is orange with a black stripe and is the positive. Is there any way to check these wires for the right voltage or should there be 12 volts at both. I know there is a voltage regulator in the alternator but wondered if the computer controls voltage to one of the wire. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!! Thanks Lancer
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Yep, 14-something =good in my book. Good charging system. A good alternator will loaf along at that while idling. What lights are flickering?
Also, what brand alternator is this? One failed in 6 months is not good, and then you got another of the same I would assume? Maybe it could be an alternator issue after all as in one that is running at max output right from the get-go. I don't know.
Also, what brand alternator is this? One failed in 6 months is not good, and then you got another of the same I would assume? Maybe it could be an alternator issue after all as in one that is running at max output right from the get-go. I don't know.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 803
Likes: 0
From: Bobcaygeon Ont.
The interior light as well as the under hood light will flicker. If theres lots of load its fine. Not much load the lights flicker bright dim like the voltage regulator is turning on/off. I will check grounds tommorow. I put a new ground cable that goes from the alt. to battery to chassis. I used #8 welding wire so it should be plenty big. Thanks for the tips and i'll let you know how i make out. Have a good one Lancer!!
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
The voltage regulator is somewhat self-governing.. I compare it to the throttle body in a gasoline engine car. The more air is let in, the more power comes out. The PCM only controls the reference voltage ~5v
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
From: Carroll County, MD
Must be the night of charging systems. I have seen this problem before on "knock-off" rebuilt alternators, and even sometimes with name brand/OEM units. I will say, though, that I normally haven't seen it on smaller alternators, but rather the 200+ amp units like what you would find on a fire truck (I am the head wrench at my local VFC)
It is the type of regulator that is installed in the alternator. Some units work proportionally, in that they adjust the current to the field of the alternator smoothly, keeping the voltage at a steady state. Others "step" the current to the field, and this switching gives you the flicker. Although it is annoying, as long as the voltage is between about 13.4-13.6 fully loaded, and does not go over about 14.7-14.8 (15 worst case) it really won't harm a whole lot.
It is the type of regulator that is installed in the alternator. Some units work proportionally, in that they adjust the current to the field of the alternator smoothly, keeping the voltage at a steady state. Others "step" the current to the field, and this switching gives you the flicker. Although it is annoying, as long as the voltage is between about 13.4-13.6 fully loaded, and does not go over about 14.7-14.8 (15 worst case) it really won't harm a whole lot.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
From: Carroll County, MD
It also has to do with how the regulator is sensing the voltage of the vehicle, and if it thinks it needs to apply more juice. (read: check the positive cable of the alternator, too)
EDIT: I WAS the head wrench - I did it for 18 years, and then stepped down due to wife/kids/etc. Just still used to saying I am the dude with the tools at the Jacksonville Vol Fire Co
EDIT: I WAS the head wrench - I did it for 18 years, and then stepped down due to wife/kids/etc. Just still used to saying I am the dude with the tools at the Jacksonville Vol Fire Co
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 803
Likes: 0
From: Bobcaygeon Ont.
Thanks so much for the help guys!!! I'll take another quick look and see how it goes!!!!Have a good day Lancer 
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
The set point for a Ford 6G alternator with the gray regulator is 14.4 volts. Ours all have the gray regulator.
I would do what Kwik always recommends. He adds #4 or #6 gauge wires (very fine stranded if you can find it) from the alternator output post directly to the driver's battery's positive terminal.
Then, another from one of the alternator mounting bolts directly to that same battery's negative post. Just add the wires, there's no need to disconnect any existing factory wiring.
This really solidifies the impedance of the charging circuit, and allows the alternator to work exactly like the electrical engineers designed it to. The "theory" gets turned into reality.
Pop
I would do what Kwik always recommends. He adds #4 or #6 gauge wires (very fine stranded if you can find it) from the alternator output post directly to the driver's battery's positive terminal.
Then, another from one of the alternator mounting bolts directly to that same battery's negative post. Just add the wires, there's no need to disconnect any existing factory wiring.
This really solidifies the impedance of the charging circuit, and allows the alternator to work exactly like the electrical engineers designed it to. The "theory" gets turned into reality.
Pop
Last edited by SpringerPop; Aug 25, 2007 at 10:19 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 803
Likes: 0
From: Bobcaygeon Ont.
I've already got the ground wire done. I'll have to make the positive one. I tried to to drive it yesterday but it screwed up again. I don't think its the alt. i think its in the charge field plug. I'm going to look at it again today. I hate eletrical probs!!! 
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 803
Likes: 0
From: Bobcaygeon Ont.
I have already replaced the plug. When i removed the alt. there were a couple of chunks from inside the alt. laying in the mounting bracket. Hope they'll warenty the damn thing or i'll have a $300 paper weight!!!! 