Well, My SOHC is starting to talk back to me in the morning. I know it is inevitable that I will have to do the chains and cassettes. I've checked discount parts stores and I cannot find any parts. Do I have to go back to Ford or is there someting aftermarket? What should I expect to pay.

Thanks for any help!

 

I just went through this with mine. Use the updated Ford parts. Total cost will depend on whether you try to take some shortcuts or plan to do the job correctly and replace everything (up to four chains, four tensioners, two cassettes, two guides, and a collection of gears, bolts, fluids, and gaskets). Labor is also a big factor. If you do the work yourself, you can save the labor cost but will probably need to buy some of the required tools. Despite preplanning attempts, this job tends to take on a life of its own during engine teardown. I would budget $1500 to $2000 if you do the work and $3000 if a shop does. You will get lower quotes but that doesn’t mean your final cost will be lower. When the job is done, you may have some money left but it is better to be prepared for the possible problems than to be caught with an empty wallet and your engine in pieces.

 

Thanks.

I didn't expect that kind of figure. I would do the work. A buddy has the cam tools.

With 146K on a 2000, I don't know if it is worth it. I am contemplating on trading for F150 so I can tow heavier. My hold back is gas milage as it would be a daily driver. I am getting 21-22 mpg now.

 

You will also need an engine hoist and stand, an E-type socket set (opposite of Torx), a Torx socket set, a torque wrench and torque angle gauge, a handheld impact driver, a large GatorGrip socket, a six inch strap wrench, a clutch fan wrench kit, a SOHC valve spring compressor, fuel line wrenches, a crank pulley puller and installation tool, and the list goes on and on… I would also suggest a one-year online subscription to AllData (www.alldatadiy.com).

If I had the additional money at the time, I would have installed a rebuilt Jasper engine instead. However, I didn’t and now I can’t believe how well it runs after the work I did. Every indication seems to be that these engines are good for about 250K miles if you take care of the timing chain problem. That gives you another 100K miles after the repair. Being able to prove you did the repair will make it easier to sell later. Save your paperwork.

 

I had a 98 SOHC Explorer and the CAM Shaft Tensioner made this rattling noise all the time, more noticable when the engine was cool. This thing started rattling at 100k miles and it now has 230k miles and still runs like a charm. I bet that is what the rattle is...

Hope this helps.

 

I would tray to change first the tensioner in the front and back and to install the new regulation valve in the left cyl. hed. I made that with my one and it runs great since 4000km.

 

Marcousa makes a good point. There is a relatively simple and inexpensive fix if the noise has just started, is only during cold starts, and goes away completely within two minutes (Fords time spec). This would mean you probably do not have major damage to the cam-timing cassette at this point. Replace your front tensioner now and you could avoid replacing everything else and save a lot of money. The revised tensioner kit also includes the new oil galley restrictor (do not skip installing this critical part) and the revised lower intake manifold gaskets that solve the cold start rough idle problem. The kit costs about $40 to $60 depending on how much your Ford parts guy likes you. The tensioner is next to the thermostat. The intake manifold does need to be removed first but that is easy. If you wait until failure, the tensioner still has to be replaced so you have nothing to lose and a lot to gain by doing it now.

I would not worry about the rear tensioner as part of a partial repair. It has not been revised because while the front and rear cam timing cassettes and tensioners were very similar, the root cause of the problem is oil draining out of the oil galley for the front tensioner after the engine is turned off. When the engine is restarted, the front tensioner does not have initial oil pressure and does not maintain tension on the chain resulting in damage. The plastic material used in the original cam timing chain cassette is a contributing factor to its eventual failure but is not the root cause. The design of the rear oil galley does maintain tensioner oil pressure at engine startup. Consequently, the rear cassette does not fail as the front does even though they are made from the same material. The most critical part in solving this problem is the revised front tensioner and new oil restrictor that is installed in the oil galley, not the new material used to make the revised cassette as is commonly believed.

In contrast, the failure of the jackshaft chain tensioner and guide is directly related to the material used, but that is a different problem and the noise does not go away after initial engine startup.

 

Does anyone have pics or directions on how to replace the tensioner next to the thermostat housing?

 

You should be able to get a copy of TSB Campaign 00M12 (dated 001101) from your Ford dealer. Attachment III (Technical Information) includes step-by-step instructions and pictures.

 

I had replaced this tensioner in the spring. I was shocked to see that it hadn't been done previously. I thought Ford would replace it N/C up to 100K (I could be wrong). The intake gasket was a must. truck would not even run below 40 degrees outside.

The rattle/clatter lasts about 5-10 seconds after cold start. It has the kind of sound as a starter bendix hanging up.

Would Lucus or some other type of oil additive help?

 

When you replaced the tensioner, did you also install the oil restrictor?

 

Yes.

It wasn't making noise then. I just did it as a preventitve measure.

 

The "main" tensioner is prone to problems as well --- the one on my 2002 went to @#$% at about 70,000 miles... while Ford fixed the cam cassettes / tensioners on late 2001 / 2002 and up SOHC engines, they didn't update the main tensioner (I think they call it the "jackshaft" tensioner) until late 2002 / early 2003 or so. Changing that tensioner is relatively easy, and the new part is much beefier than the original.

 

Can you define "relatively easy" ???

External engine "easy" or 10 hour get to it "easy"

 

How about “might not get it done in a weekend” easy.

The jackshaft tensioner is behind the front cover. That means it is also behind the fan, fan clutch, water pump, harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley, alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor, etc.

There is no hydraulic component to the jackshaft tensioner; it is purely mechanical. When they make noise, it is usually constant.

Can you have someone else start the engine so you can use an automotive stethoscope or probe to isolate the specific location of the noise? Maybe something else is causing it.