Some time ago there was a thread about oil additives -- adding ATF to help dissolve and clean out sludge, and another common automotive chemical to re-swell dried out gaskets and seals. Might have been brake fluid? Anybody remember this? I've got some slightly leaky seals in my '76 I would like to try it on. I looked at the 'high milage vehicle' oil in the auto parts store that is supposed to do that and its over $3 a quart. !!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I'm not a fan of any additive, but silicone is the element that makes seal swells, including ones you do not want swelling. I had a dealer do this to me on my bronco. The said is was UV detection oil. Yes, but it was mainly 99 silicone. I had syn, had it sampled and did an oil change twice to flush it out. It stopped the rear main seal, just enough to get it out of warranty. Then I had to tare every thing down to repair the leak. Dealer and me lock horns. I want actual repairs and no magic fluid.

I look at it his way if you need to add additive you need to upgrade to a better oil.

 

Modern oils have evolved into fabulous products. There is already a sophisticated additive package in all premium motor oils regardless of brand. The additive package in oils is a delicate balance that can be easily disturbed. Putting ANYTING in the oil stands a REALLY GOOD chance of disturbing the balance and causing much more harm than good.

The one additive that is NOT in todays mainstream premium motor oils is ZPPD which is a necessary additive for engines with flat tappet cams such as your 70's Ford truck. Since most all engines built in the last 10 to 20 years have roller tappets, oil companies have dropped the ZPPD and haven't made it common knowledge. There are three ways to get this additive that is MANDATORY for flat tappet engines. These are; diesel truck oil such as Chevron Delo 400, Mobil Delvac or Shell Rotella T, Racing Oil such as Pennzoil Racing Oil or Engine Oil Supplement(EOS) from your Chevy parts counter.

Without ZPPD, your flat tappet cam and lifter life will be cut drastically short. It is a travesty that oil companies have just assumed that everyone now has roller tappets and have left out the ZPPD, so beware.

Good luck,

 

check out http://www.auto-rx.com/

but if you're thinking $3/qt is too much, don't bother....
or you could always research on http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...eads.php?Cat=0
and realize ARX is worth the money.

 

I would run high mileage oil continuously for the rest of the life of the truck. I am putting high mileage oil in my motorhome since it has 9900 miles on it. It's just better oil all around IMO. You can get it on sale. I think MAxlife is $12 a 5 qt jug at some places, maybe Walmart. That's a decent price.

 

I agree on the "high mileage" recipe oil, for older weeping engines. It has a good add pack for the flat tappet cams & with a controlled ammount of seal swell agents, that might tighten things up enough to slow down or maybe stop small weeps, or leaks, without over doing it.

Once you get it tight, maybe consider a dual rated gas/diesel oil, for the higher levels of ZDDP, if that worries you.

The mfgrs haven't stopped adding ZDDP, they've just cut back on the % in the formula, but most have added other things to make up for it.
Most oils say they still cover previous "S" catagories.
As I understand it, we'll only have problems, if we're running a more aggressive, high lift profile cam, than stock.

If in doubt, call the lube mfgr about the product your considering & ask their opinion!!!!

Just some thoughts for pondering.

 

Whoops, that should say "EVER since it has 9900 miles on it." I am not putting it in because it has low miles, but because it is great oil. Actually using Maxlife Synthetic in the motorhome.

 

You took the words right out of my mouth!

 

The Maxlife you normally buy off the shelf in the reddish orange bottles is a synthetic blend and the best stuff ive ever seen for slowing or stopping oil leaks. It will usally take care of the leak within the next 2 oil changes as long as it not a torn or missing seal. It works or you need parts replaced.