a/c trouble
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a/c trouble
I've read a few problems on here about the a/c's on these great trucks, but I can't seem to find my problem. Earlier today, my trucks a/c was working great and cooled well. Now, it doesn't blow very cold after it's been driven for around 15 minutes or so. Works well till everything warms up. It is on max and still not cold, even my wife is warm in here and she's usually freezing while I'm sweating. I don't think it's the heater valve, acts like something else. Any ideas? Thanks, Pepperman
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It acts like it's cycling on and off. It will work great for a while then blow cool to warm air. Almost acts like it's low on freon. I'm not an a/c man so what do you mean by air gap on the clutch?
Cross-Country
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From: Leesburg, VA
Use the search function on this forum, and look for compressor clutch air gap. I just did this same repair about a month ago, and it was really easy. Basically, there are shims (washers) between the compressor and the clutch. As the two surfaces wear, the gap between them increases, and the clutch isn't able to stay mated to the compressor very well. Removing shims to readjust the air gap fixes the problem. You want the distance between the two surfaces to be about as wide as the thickness of a business card.
Give it a go!
Give it a go!
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The correct air gap for the a/c clutch is .021 - .036 inches.
This is controlled by the washers on the shaft behing the removable hub end. This is held on with one nut directly in the center of the pulley. The pulley with belt does not have to be removed to set the clutch spacing.
Measure the gap with a feeler gauge. Then remove the shims. Determing the amount you need to close up then remove the proper shim.
Hope this helps. Jim
This is controlled by the washers on the shaft behing the removable hub end. This is held on with one nut directly in the center of the pulley. The pulley with belt does not have to be removed to set the clutch spacing.
Measure the gap with a feeler gauge. Then remove the shims. Determing the amount you need to close up then remove the proper shim.
Hope this helps. Jim
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Dang it, I should've guessed that. I had the same problem on an old 82 f150 I had. Now I feel like a dumb butt. That's what happens when you have your head up your butt. Thanks a bunch guy's. Great board and very helpful. Made the decision process on my new, used, super duty very helpful. I've been researching here for all types of questions and you've answered them all. By the way, what's a 99 f250, v10 w/120k, auto, sc lb, 2wd worth? It was owned by a retired man who did nothing but pull a 32' 5er with it. Truck looks new and drives new. Everyone thinks I bought a new truck. I like it and I guess that's all that matters. Thanks again, Pepperman
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Well guy's, I still have a problem. I removed the spacer behind the hub and made sure it would cycle and it does. What I've noticed is that when the rpm's are above 1700, it stops blowing cold. Freezes you out when below 1700 or at an idle. I've thought about the clutch coil but not sure. One person suggested a vacuum(???) leak, others said fan clutch. Help me guys, it gets hot here in South Texas. Thanks, tpepper
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Originally Posted by rbaker6336
probly low on freon or plugged orifice would have to run pressure check
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Originally Posted by Biggziff
Doesn't the air gap affect the clutch activating only? If the clutch is cycling, then the air gap is OK, correct?
Nope,, the gap limits the flex in the clutch plate. If you have too much flex it will fatigue the plate and it will break resulting major replacement.
The low pressure switch, expansion valve if you have one and the , compressor adjustable displacement wobble plate will control the pressure, depending on design.
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Well, we put the gauges on it and found to be 2 cans low on freon. It now works like a charm. Didn't figure it would cool like it did when it was low. Oh, well, that's why I come here to learn. Thanks for all the help, tpepper