I want to start doing my own F/F changes...
When I take the cover off the housing, will it be full fo fuel..?
Manual explains it should be... If so, is there a chance of dirty fuel getting into the clean side intake??

Any suggestions??

Chris..

 

Use the Yellow lever on the backside of the fuel bowl to drain all the fuel/water that has accumulated in there. And keep an eye on the drain pipe aferwards to see if you have leaky o-rings cause it seems to be a problem that commonly happens sometimes.

 

I was thinking of that but the manual does not suggest doing so....Makes
sense to me to do just that though..

Chris..

 

It should tell you to do that cause if you break open that fuel bowl lid you will have a big mess of fuel spilling out and it helps to drain the water out of it anyways. Just remember to put the fuel bowl lid on hand tight, I used some pliers to get some extra leverage and guess what....I actually had a leak cause it pinched the gasket so just remeber to do it hand tight. Also have some Diesel handy or some type of fuel additive to fill the bowl up when you get done putting the filter in, and anyways I think it tells you to fill the bowl up half-way and then put the filter in and let it soak a little.

 

Any good sponsers to get filters from...?

 

Get/keep a two foot long piece of 1/4" ID plastic tubing that you can slide up over the end of the metal tubing on the front of the engine... easier to drain fuel filter bowl into a quart jar... the bowl holds almost exactly one pint of fuel.

Use a Racor filter, which is OEM.

A strap wrench works the best with these filter housing lids, and they're cheap at the auto parts store.

- Install the plastic tube and place an empty quart jar under it.
- Flip the yellow drain valve handle and drain down the fuel bowl.
- Close the drain valve.
- Take jar of fuel out from under vehicle. If it's clean, save for refilling fuel bowl, otherwise pour into your fuel tank.
- Remove the filter lid.
- Pay very, VERY close attention to the orientation of the oring on the lid. The new one has to go in correctly or it will leak.
- Remove the filter element.
- Install the new filter element.
- If you have clean fuel set aside, pour it inside the filter housing, otherwise go to next step.
- Install the o-ring and lid.
- Turn on the ignition switch WITHOUT starting the engine and let the fuel pump run through its 30 second startup cycle. Do this twice of you prefilled the filter housing with fuel. Do it FOUR times if you had no fuel for the housing.
- Start the egnine and look for leaks.

 

Great....
Thanks for the rundown...
Have the hose..from when I do the water drain...and a strap wrench....
Is dieselfiltersonline a good place to get filters..?

 

Guzzle has a pictorial step-by-step procedure that it absolutely outstanding. Link below.

http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/ffilter.html

He also lists the Napa, Racor, and Motorcraft filter part numbers for reference. Given Racor's excellent reputation, and the fact that they make the filter for the Motorcraft label - if I remember correctly, I would go with Racor because you can probably get it cheaper than the relabelled Motorcraft unit. Search for that part number in Google for the lowest price on that filter.

Here are a couple I found pretty quick.

http://www.usdieselparts.com/category.cfm?Category=965&CFID=392510&CFTOKEN=687 (about 2/3 down the page, PFF4596 = $26)

http://www.blinefilter.com/about/ (these guys have a special for $17.50 each, same Racor element)

EDIT: Since that last link is such a good price, I just ordered two of the Racor filter elements myself from them. Both filters shipped to my house for $45. HARD to beat that price!!

 

Thanks for all the info guys....

 

Got my Racor from Geno's Garage. Less that $20, if I recall.

And you can use the fuel pump to refill the bowl. I left it open and turned the key and watched it. A second person would make it easier, but I just peeked under the hood from the open door to make sure it wasn't over-flowing...

Joe