Bed Time!!!
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Bed Time!!!
Ok, so I just bought a 1993 F150 with the 300 I6. One issue with it. The bed needs either a can of bondo or to be replaced in order to pass inspection.
1. How do you guys go about repairing the tops of the fenders where they most commonly rust?
2. Will a stylside bedmount directly up in place of a straight side?
3. Has anyone here ever put a flat bed on their truck?
3b. How about a bed from a different period?
Thanks in Advance Everyone.
1. How do you guys go about repairing the tops of the fenders where they most commonly rust?
2. Will a stylside bedmount directly up in place of a straight side?
3. Has anyone here ever put a flat bed on their truck?
3b. How about a bed from a different period?
Thanks in Advance Everyone.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Des Plaines, Illinois
The bed from an earlier body style should fit. Not sure if a styleside bed will fit no problem because I think it has a different fuel filler setup.
You can get some rigid screen or fine wire mesh to stuff into the fender rust, shape it something like a fender and then bondo over it. If it's enough to pass inspection it might be worth the quick fix.
Both my bed fenders are rusted out. The chrome lip is still there but part of the fender wall above it is MIA. Not a big deal in Illinois or I'd try and fill them in, but it wouldn't fix the rust on the doors...or the cab.
You can get some rigid screen or fine wire mesh to stuff into the fender rust, shape it something like a fender and then bondo over it. If it's enough to pass inspection it might be worth the quick fix.
Both my bed fenders are rusted out. The chrome lip is still there but part of the fender wall above it is MIA. Not a big deal in Illinois or I'd try and fill them in, but it wouldn't fix the rust on the doors...or the cab.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 237
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From: St. Paul, MN
Wow, they inspect the bed rails? We have vehicles here in the rust-belt (MN) that are
hundreds of pounds lighter than when they were new, and they don't care. Didn't know
they did body inspections....what does the bed have to do with driveability?
Check the local salvage yards and craigslist for replacement beds....
hundreds of pounds lighter than when they were new, and they don't care. Didn't know
they did body inspections....what does the bed have to do with driveability?
Check the local salvage yards and craigslist for replacement beds....
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From: Des Plaines, Illinois
Your state's website should have a link to the DMV and all the codes should be listed there.
Worst case, stop by a local garage and ask them. Chances are they know the codes for the state, or call an inspection center. If you can get a live person they might be able to tell you. Some garages (in Illinois anyway) will also do "preinspections" for you for like 20 bucks...although here it's just emmissions...they won't notice anything else unless it's on fire.
Worst case, stop by a local garage and ask them. Chances are they know the codes for the state, or call an inspection center. If you can get a live person they might be able to tell you. Some garages (in Illinois anyway) will also do "preinspections" for you for like 20 bucks...although here it's just emmissions...they won't notice anything else unless it's on fire.
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As soon as I posted that I called my buddy who has his own shop, and does inspections there as well. This is the way he put it.
"If someone were to walk by it in a parking lot, and they brush up against it, if they could catch something on the rust/hole, or get cut, it wont pass"
And its $20 fo PA inspection. Im not sure if it has to do with the fact that It hasn't been inspected since November has anything to do with that or not.
"If someone were to walk by it in a parking lot, and they brush up against it, if they could catch something on the rust/hole, or get cut, it wont pass"
And its $20 fo PA inspection. Im not sure if it has to do with the fact that It hasn't been inspected since November has anything to do with that or not.
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From: Transfer
the bed has to do with more of safety then anything, most of the time its because of the sharp edges, if you have rust around the fenders they have patch panels out there that you cut your rust out and you can rivet or weld them in.
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Post Fiend
Joined: May 2004
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From: Lakewood, Ohio
my advice is to get the truck picked up, find out what else besides the bed it needs to pass inspection and fix those things first.
that will give you time to look around for a flareside bed which is what you mentioned you really wanted.
i looked at my manuals and it looks like any bed: styleside. flareside or flat can be made to fit.
the fuel filler looks like is the major difference.
go to http://nationalpartsdepot.com/ and download a catalog and also have them mail you one.
it will be a big help.
that will give you time to look around for a flareside bed which is what you mentioned you really wanted.
i looked at my manuals and it looks like any bed: styleside. flareside or flat can be made to fit.
the fuel filler looks like is the major difference.
go to http://nationalpartsdepot.com/ and download a catalog and also have them mail you one.
it will be a big help.
Last edited by quicklook2; Aug 23, 2007 at 02:48 PM.
Cross-Country
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if you want to keep your fender wells from rusting (if the inner fenders aren't in the way) just wire brush them out good, then put some bondo in there so it makes sort of a slant. hope that helps in a way. As well you could fiberglass those rust holes shut, then bondo over that. as i hope that helps as well!
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From: Biloxi, MS
I had the signature Ford wheel well rust too, I got rid of it because I just didn't like rust, thankfully Iowa dosn't do any inspections...
I used the end of a screwdriver and popped out all the loose rust, then sanded it, then filled in the cavity with spray insulation foam... Its a real mess, but it gives something for the bondo to adhere to... I might recommend gloves if your going to do that just because I remember the foam stuck to my hands for at least a week (no joke...) After I let the foam set, I just used a butterknive and cut it to match the fenders of the truck, then sanded again, then bondo'd and sanded the hell out of it until I got it looking nice... Then I painted it with a rattlecan... Looks great from a distance, but just remember bondo isin't perfect, and getting paint to shine can be a real bitch... Still looks better than rust :O)
I used the end of a screwdriver and popped out all the loose rust, then sanded it, then filled in the cavity with spray insulation foam... Its a real mess, but it gives something for the bondo to adhere to... I might recommend gloves if your going to do that just because I remember the foam stuck to my hands for at least a week (no joke...) After I let the foam set, I just used a butterknive and cut it to match the fenders of the truck, then sanded again, then bondo'd and sanded the hell out of it until I got it looking nice... Then I painted it with a rattlecan... Looks great from a distance, but just remember bondo isin't perfect, and getting paint to shine can be a real bitch... Still looks better than rust :O)
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Originally Posted by John_deere_kid
Have a picture?