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Drain the converter, also. With the converter empty and the pan empty should hold between 11-12 quarts.
You might as well adjust the second gear band while you're under there. On the driver's side of the trans, near the linkage there is a hex nut with a square-headed stud sticking out of it. Hold the square-headed bolt from turning and loosen the hex nut that is locking it down. Back the hex nut off a turn ir two, next tighten the square-headed bolt to 10 ft. lbs. then back the square-headed bolt out 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns. Hold the square-headed bolt from turning and lock down the hex nut.
Wish ya luck on the filter change as untorquing the filter unloads the pressure between the shifter body and the seperator plate with a gasket between. This gasket at one pressure port is 3/16" or less wide and can blow out in the future causing a slow tranny failure. Been known to happen hence a dab of contact cement during tranny assembly helps. Drop a flat magnet in the pan for them iron particles as that coarse filter can not collect them.
On the band adjustment that locknut is a once used throw away item as it has sealing material on the face. To reuse you will cause a very small leak, any leak is not good and ATF will find it.
On fluid your talking 12 3/4 quarts.
Bang the pan flange bolt holes flat before installing, another leak prone area and do not over torque your pan bolts.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Aug 25, 2007 at 12:11 AM.
It always better to drain the convert if you can. It hold most of the trans fluids. There is a 1/8" pipe plug in most C6. You may need to rotate the crank to locate it. The flywheel should have a hole for access.
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