Door hinge
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2007
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Door hinge
Here is a simple question for those of you that have recently replaced the hinge pins. Did you have any play in the door when you were done. I recently did mine and yesterday I found that my door seem to sag less then a 1/4" but that is making it hard to shut the door without slamming it. Does this mean I need to replace it agian or could my door need algining? What do you guys think?
Playing in the Dirt
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,302
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From: Southwest Georgia
Casey, are you saying a 1/4 inch sag but no play? Then the door needs to be repostioned to make it align right, the hinge bolts need to be loosened and the door adjusted, and as Action4478 stated, the striker may need realigning. FYI for others that are doing this, both top and bottom hinge pins and bushings need to replaced at the same time.
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: rockville, maryland
Doesn't adjusting the hinge bolts at the door only allow the door to be moved up-down, while not changing orientation? That is to say, a sagging condition seems to imply rotation of the door, fronm front to back of the vehicle. It seems to me that this would have to be corrected with the hinge bolts that attach behind the fender. When the 2 groups of 3 bolts are loosened it allows angular adjustment of the door. Only problem is there doesn't seem to be a way to access these bolts w/o removing the fender..
Mitch
Mitch
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Originally Posted by mitch01
yea but how do you gauge the effect on the door alignment if its disconnected when you adjust the hinges?
You have to keep putting the door back on...
The crude way is a drift & a BFH...or a door aligning (bending)..tool that I use every day
Fuelman knows how to do it with out removing anything...Maybe he can tell you how....
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 891
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From: Toulon,Il.
It really takes two people .You can get to the bolts between the fender and door w/a swivel and socket or a wooble head extension.It is a very tight fit but can be done.Slightly loosen upper and lower bolts then have someone lift outer edge of door,snug a bolt on each hinge until striker goes into latch while pushing w/ only one finger. Keep trying until your satisfied with closing then tighten all bolts.Admittedly the forward most bolts are tough you may have to tweak the fender alittle but if careful no worries. Good luck..
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Joined: Aug 2006
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Actually.. ,Fuelman is mostly correct...I went out & looked at mine, & you can get at the forward most bolts on the upper & lower hinge ,from in between the door & the fender with the door still on,the back one top & bottom might be tough,, but , with two of the three loose , tapping on the hinge , if will easily move ...Best to do one at a time...top first.....
Sorry for the original misdirection, I do this every day on one vehicle or another ,always on somone elses veh, (cant take a chance on chipping or scratching anything) so whipping the doors off is no big deal...
Sorry for the original misdirection, I do this every day on one vehicle or another ,always on somone elses veh, (cant take a chance on chipping or scratching anything) so whipping the doors off is no big deal...
Last edited by Action4478; Sep 5, 2007 at 11:30 AM.
Playing in the Dirt
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,302
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From: Southwest Georgia
I have found that a 3/8" ratchet, extention and a flex socket work best to reach the hinge bolts. Hinge bolts are "ON THE HINGE" the door stricker is the one that the latch engages. In some cases I have had to place a washer behind a door mounting bolt (door to the hinge) to get the bottom of a door to come up enough to line up. Basicly it's like stated above, trial and error until you get it lined up right.