My Ranger has started to run exponentially and wildly horrible over the past DAY. It literally went from running smooth and perfect yesterday evening, to one mildly annoying miss pulling out on an incline, and dying around a turn this morning, to barely getting it to limp home, sickeningly, killing every few miles.

I'm pretty confident it's the fuel-filter that is causing all these problems. I don't think it's the clutch and I don't think that the EGR system could cause problems this massive. I do, however, have this:

This morning after getting to school, I decided to tell my Commander, (ROTC), about the truck missing when pulling out and dying. The Check Engine light has been on forever, so we decided to grab his OBD II scanner out of his truck and read the codes.

Anyways, here's what we got, along with the definitions. I believe I got all these definitions correct. Some are from my Haynes manual, and some are from the Internet list of "generic" codes.




P1131: lack of upstream heated oxygen sensor switch - sensor indicates lean, bank #1.
(I checked wiring and both O₂ sensors on the exhaust after reading this, and found them all intact. My only hypothesis is that, since the fuel filter is probably clogged at this point in time, it's registering the engine running lean?)

P1443: Evaporative Emission Control System - vacuum system - purge control solenoid or purge control valve fault.
(Seems like a standard "IGATI" code to me.)

P0401: Insufficient EGR flow.
(This seems simple enough. Until I know for certain, though, ((after I change the fuel filter)), I'll hold off changing the EGR valve.)

P0080: Exhaust valve bank #1 control circuit high.
(I'm guessing this, and the following, "high" circuits means voltage? Or perhaps their input...)

P0004: Fuel volume regulator control circuit high.

P0010: "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit.
(This one scares me a bit. A little history/details on this code would be nice...)

P0200: Injector circuit/open.

P2080: Exhaust gas temperature secor circuit range/Performance.
(I'm guessing, if the above "high" readings means voltage, this could be related.)



I'm gonna replace the fuel-filter whenever I pick-up some fuel-line tools, and then run some SeaFoam through the truck, (whenever I'm runnin' on empty again), and then pull the codes again for a final verdict. For now, some input on possible culprits for the many codes above would be VERY much appreciated.


Thanks!
Mark F.

EDIT: oh yes, and I'm gonna ask the people at the gas station I bought gas at last about any other people having the same problems, (in case the new filter doesn't solve the problem). I buy gas from them all the time, (Shell station, rated 87 octane Regular gasoline), but they might have gotten water into the gas or something.

 

You might look around for the crank position sensor. I read somewhere it causes all sorts of problems usually severe. Don't drive too much with this many codes something is definately happening bad. Make sure the bracket that holds it is not bent!
It is down behind the crank pulley. It should be close to the thing that looks like a weird gear but not too close I'll measure mine if you think yours is outa whack!

 

With all the codes you listed. Sounds like you have a few problems. Depending on the miles of the vehical and how much you drive it. You might want to go ahead and replace the O2 Sensor, The Crank Sensor. The EGR, And the Fuel filter. I had to do this recently for an off the wall CEL code. For the fuel consumption system. Made no since considering i replaced the sensor CEL came back on Then i said screw it and replaced all the sensors listed above and the truck is fine. I personally have not noticed 1 Bit of difference in seafoam. I buy it by the case and run it at every oil change but i havent found it to be that effective other then the fact that it gives an awsome smoke show everytime you do it.

 

p2080 is caused by a faulty o2 sensor. found this out AFTER i replace my cat because stupid mechanic told me it was the cat converter. Since then i have paid $1000 to replace all 5 of my stock cats with magnaflow high-flow cat converters. MAKES A HUGE DIFFERENCE. all 5 of my Mazda b3000-s(Ranger with 3.0) With highflow cats and 40 Series flow with single in dual out turndowns. Nice power v-8 sound(just dont drive 740 Miles at 2500K rpm you might fall asleep) start with o2 sensor,crank sensor, cam sensor. THESE WILL ALL NEED TO BE REPLACED WITH ANY vehical over 100K. i have 2 of them in my garage rite now that i have replaced all 3 on. Still have 1 baby in the garage with 10K on her. She has been drivin 2 times a week since i purchased her in 05. This will be my last truck i use for work.