Has anyone had a problem with a lifter tapping type noise coming from the engine?
I have talked to my selling dealer today and of course the service manager says it sounds like a exhaust leak. I have been working on vehicles for 23 years and know a valvetrain noise when I hear it.
I haven't been able to locate a TSB so far so I thought I would see if maybe, just maybe someone else has had this problem before I go tearing into the engine. I am going to change the oil to 10/30 first and see if oil will do what the water is not.

 

I have the same thing when I first fire the beast up in the morning. I went to Mobil 1 Super Syn thinking it may quiet it down bit. It only does it when the engine is cold. But I do have a definite 'lifter noise', not an exhaust leak. I too know the difference and it aint exhaust. It is a lifter most definitely and seems to be louder on the drivers side than on the passenger side but maybe it's cause I only get in the drivers side. But I have walked around the front of the van when I first start it, and it does seem louder on the drivers side. I called my local dealer who also said there was nothing he had heard about it, but my local dealer is about as knowledgeable about Fords as the Chevy dealer down the street is about Fords and are more concerned with selling me a new van than trying to care for this van. Let me know if you find anything interesting. I guess I can live with the noise, but would rather at least know what it is, and not worry about something catastrophic happening inside my beloved engine, Ken, 1998 E-350 XLT V-10 E4OD 15 passenger.

 

What brand filter do you guys use?

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 18-Jun-02 AT 06:44 PM (EST)] Well guys I have an update, it turned out that it was #4 & #5 sparkplugs being loose. I have had a problem since day one with the #1 plug. I have to tighten it every oil change.
I checked my Alldata for TSB's but no luck. I talked to the Sevice manager again today and he is going to search Fords data base to see what he can find.
My professional opinion is that the inectors on those cylinders are alittle lean. It will not be picked up by the computer because its not a hard failure. If in fact it is the injectors it will be a long term problem. Aluminum expades and contracts at a different rate then stell, thats why they come loose.
Once I find out more I will let ya'll know.

 

There has been some talk here previously with some people experiencing sparkplug blowouts on some 99 and 00 V-10's and V-8's.Feel free to keep us up to date.

 

>What brand filter do you guys use?

Motorcraft and only Motorcraft. I've heard too many Fram horror stories to risk using the "Orange one".

 

"Well guys I have an update, it turned out that it was #4 & #5 sparkplugs being loose. I have had a problem since day one with the #1 plug. I have to tighten it every oil change."

Did you get the noise all the time ? Or like me only when your engine is cold ? Now I'm wigged out. Now I have to miss work and have my spark plugs checked. Oh the pain, the horror, my boss is gonna go fruit. Does a loose sparkplug or two REALLY sound like lifter noise ? THAT is something I would have NEVER guessed. Can't you apply some sort of thread sealant on your plugs to keep them tight ? It seems to me that some thread lock of some type would make it easier to ptoperly thread the plugs in the first place to prevent cross threading and also keep them in place. I haven't heard of any of these plug problems on the 98 V-10, has anyone ? Ken 1998 E-350 XLT 15 pass V-10 E4OD.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 19-Jun-02 AT 09:51 PM (EST)] The reason it sounds like a lifter is because the plug is recessed 8 inches into the head. The plug boot seals the gasses and it causes a knock so to speak. DO NOT put any kind of lube or sealant on the plug. This will only cause more problems. Don't let them take the plugs out if you can help it. You don't want to chance cross threading the threads. You only need to snug the plug, don't over torque. And yes it cold be a cold only problem as it will seal after it gets hot.
I sat down with the service manager of my selling dealer and we went thru the Ford data base and did not find anything on loose and or blown spark plugs. We also looked into parts to see if there has been a part number change on the heads and there has not. The manufacturers will change parts to cover up a defect, this inturn will have a new number. I actually use this for diagnostics from time to time because I can't believe a part has failed. If the dealer has alot of them then there is a problem.
I have benn working on these engine managment system since they were really lame and with my experience I am leaning toward a lean condition causing the head to expand to much. Ford is only running a 19lbs injector on a heavy duty engine. I haul quite often and don't lag when I do which would cause high tempatures. I am going to try an adjustable fuel regulator first and see what happens.
I am supposed to meet with a Ford rep to discuss becoming a Warranty center for Ford Motorhome chassis and plan on picking his brain. If anyone one has any ideas please let me know. I have learned alot in 23 years about automobiles, but I will never have all the answers.

 

> I am supposed to meet with a Ford rep to discuss becoming
>a Warranty center for Ford Motorhome chassis and plan on
>picking his brain. If anyone one has any ideas please let me
>know. I have learned alot in 23 years, but I will never have
>all the answers.
None of us do.
Sometimes it seems that factory reps. have NONE of the answers.
If you do get an adjustable fuel regulator I would like to know the details.

Thanks for the information .

 

I saw one of these on the Kenne Bell catalog. They call it "Boost-a-pump". It's in the packet of stuff I sent you. It's not a pump at all but a pump voltage booster. I guess the voltage that gets to the V-10 fuel pump is only 10.4 or something (I'm quoting this from memory, which isn't always reliable) and the KB BAP brings it back up. And will actually increase fuel flow by 50% along woth keeping pressure stock at idle. May be worth a look into eh ? Ken 1998 E-350 XLT V-10.

 

Jim you have the same engine compartment I do. Have you checked your plugs yourself ? How hard is it to do ? I remember putting plugs/wires on my 93 E-150 with the 302. I swore I'd never do it again. I'm a big guy, 6' 5" and 253 lbs. So I don't have the tiniest hands (or feet, I wear a size 15 shoe) and there just wasn't ANY room even in the engine compartment of the 5.0 engine. I can't imagine that 10 cylinders and 415 cubic inches will help with the space problem. Ken

 

I do everything myself, the dealer doesn't even do my warranty work. I am **** about someone touching my truck.
Its not that hard, you will need a stool, remove the retaining screw on the coil, don't drop it, unplug the coil first and pull it straight up. It is best to use a wiggler type socket so you don't break the plug.
Reverse procedure when done.
Let me know if I can help somemore Tim

2001 F250 SD V10 4X4 3" lift 33/12.50 Goodyear ATS
Superchip, US gear Turbo Fan, Borla Headers, TRV exhaust,
Centerline wheels, Bed cover, and a heavy foot.

 

Thanks, I went out and checked the voltage at my pump. how about 10.8 volts at 2000 rpm.
How much are they wanting for that kit? Shouldn't be much, it will only take about $10 worth of parts. I am going to build one and install it tomorrow. I will be going to Dallas Sat and shall see what it does.
That could very well be the source of my problem. The pumps are designed to run at 12.8 volts. At 11 volts there is No way it could pump enough at WOT.
I will let ya'll know. Tim

 

. I am going to build one and install it tomorrow.


Cool, let me know how it works. I heard someone, somewhere say that he merely replaced his small gauge wire and installed a relay to his pump, and it brought the voltage back up. Kenne Bell has a little diagram on the advert sheet, the power comes in, it goes out, there's a 'cockpit controller' for adjustment, and 2 wires to the vacuum/pressure switch. If that helps. You sound way more knowledgeable than I am if you're going to build one yourself but let us know how you did it and if it works, Ken 1998 E-350 XLT V-10.

 

Allrighty then, I made the unit and installed it, it went from 10.8 volts to 13.2 volts. I then towed a 6k lbs trailer and tractor home and drove as I normally do when pulling a trailer. I was on the brakes more then usual, it seemed to pull alot better in OD. I will know more after my trip up to Dallas this weekend.
It was a breeze to make, I don't know what they are doin but all you need is a little wire, a generic Bosch relay and tie it in.
I will let ya'll know how much difference it made when I get back, Tim