Ok here is the update, I went to Dallas and boy what a difference. I went to pass a car on one of the byways here and when I tromped on it like normal I almost ran over the car in front of me. The power was unreal, hills that required 3rd gear on cruise before now did it in overdrive. I noticed the pitch of my exhaust was quiter too, like the engine was just loffing along.
Now for the best part, I averaged 11.1 miles to the gallon regularly. I checked it when I got back, how about 13.9 mpg :-staun
For those of you that want to install the relay I will post instructions soon. Tim

 

Tim:

It sounds like you are onto something! I am very interested in how to do the mod. that you discussed.

> For those of you that want to install the relay I will
>post instructions soon

Please post info when you can!!!!!

Mike,

2000 Excursion XLT 4x4 V10 - 6" Fabtech Lift, Weld Wheels, 35" BFG Mudders, Rancho RS9000 shocks w/ control + steering stabilizer, Helwig Sway Bar, SuperLift True-Speed, K&N, Banks Headers, Magnaflow, Goodyear Airbags w/ control

 

> Allrighty then, I made the unit and installed it, it went
>

from 10.8 volts to 13.2 volts.
Tim, you previously stated that the pumps are designed to run at 12.8 volts and now, after your mod, your reading 13.2. Is this a problem? Can you also tell us how you checked the voltage. I have a meter and know how to use it but if you could tell me where to pin it would be helpful. Lookin forward to the instructions on this mod. Also I'm not sure I understand how a lower voltage, 10.8 or whatever, at the fuel pump affects the power of the engine. Does this reduce injector pressure thereby reducing fuel flow resulting in less power? Appreciate your input.....thanks.

 

I will try and explain as best I can, I know how to fix em but not that great at explaining, I will give it my best shot.
All electrical components on a vehicle are designed to run at 12.5 to 14.2 volts. If for some reason the voltage falls below the proper level they could burn up due to high current, if it goes to high it could cause an internal short which in turn will burn them up.
The 12.8 volts is the optimum operating voltage, the pump runs more efficiently with low heat and current draw. When you are running your AC on high, all lights on etc, the voltage should not drop below 12.5 volts thru out the truck, if it does there is a problem.
The reason the voltage is low to the pump is to small of wire, higher then wanted voltage loss. Wether Ford will admit or even catch this who knows.
The power and the milage increased due to the fuel pressures coming up. I know this doesn't compute, you would think more fuel less mileage. Well the computer now has somethibg to work with. The fuel is there on demand and the ECM can control it better. Before the ECM wanted more fuel and it wasn't there so it changed all the settings to account for this. An ECM will not change instantly it takes a few miles. So once the pressure came up it could control it more percisely and intern the milage and power.
The same works for Exhaust mods and intake mods. It allows the ECM to do its thing better.
I hope this helps, please forgive the spelling, I am a tech not an english major.
I am going to post the mod for the fuel pump under a new topic heading so everyone can see it. Let me know if I can be of any help, Tim

 

Thanks Tim. This makes sense. Can you tell us where to pin to chk the pump voltage?

 

Kirk, the best place to check your voltage is near the tank, it will be a pink wire with a black strip. Tim

 

Hightech after reading all the info on this thread I went out and pulled the dog house off in my Motorhome. Weirdest darn spark plug set-up I've ever seen. Wasn't sure what I was looking at but went ahead anyways and started removing the single bolts. Sure enough there be spark plugs under them thar rubber whatchamacallits. Pulled all ten and gave each plug a little wrench. Not one of them was loose so I guess that is not what is causing my "lifter noise" first thing in the morning. Like others have mentioned my noise goes away after warm-up. Anywho while I was in there I decided to remove all those OEM band and wire clamps on the rad hoses and various other places. Replaced them with the Jubilee (sp) clamps. I had previously lost a little coolant and figured it might have been the fault of one of these original clamps. I also went looking for that pink and black wire you mentioned but being a duffer newbie at this mechanic stuff I didn't know where to begin. Looked back at the tank area and there is mucho wire but all encased in corrugated wire wrap. Maybe if I ask Ford for a schematic or go to the fuel pump. Is there a fuel pump on the rail and one in the tank? If there is one on the rail I'll move the MH so I can get a better look. It is in sorta storage mode right now. Thanks for all the great info. I've been able to follow most of the advice given and it feels great to be able to do a few things yourself and not be totally at the mercy of Blue Oval.

 

Does the supply to the relay need to be a switched on power source or a constant power sourse? If it is a switch sourse where is the best place to pick up this power under the hood? Thanks for any help!

 

"Weirdest darn spark plug set-up I've ever seen. Wasn't sure what I was looking at but went ahead anyways and started removing the single bolts. Sure enough there be spark plugs under them thar rubber whatchamacallits. Pulled all ten and gave each plug a little wrench."


Ah,,, fabulous, I am SO looking forward to doing THIS now, heehee. So R2, since I basically have the same 'doghouse' you do w/my E-350, what kind of tools did it entail ? Any of the plugs really hard to get to ? How about pulling off the coil/plugcap thing ? What WOULDN'T you do again the next time around ? What WOULD you do earlier this time around ? What kind of lifter noise are you experiencing ? I get a not too loud clicking only after my rig has sat all night. It lasts for maybe 15 seconds, even lats after the oil pressure comes up. It definitely sounds like a tappet, or a lifter. It never does it any other time, only in the morning. Even when the rig sits for 4-5 hours, it doesn't do it, only after it gets completely cold and sits for 8+ hours. It runs and drives fine. It goes like heck. I get great (my a heavy footed V-10 driver) mileage, and generally LOVE my truck, except this lifter noise. It drives me nuts. Ken 98 E-350 XLT V-10 E4OD 15 passenger Club Wagon

 

I have some kind of noise in my truck. I have thought it might be spark knock. I have taken it back to dealer they said it was a faulty knock sensor. they replaced the sensor but I still hear the noise. I have tried the "torque converter cover fix", the "Y pipe heat shield removal fix",and none of these have worked. Thanks for any advice!

 

>I have some kind of noise in my truck. I have thought it
>might be spark knock. I have taken it back to dealer they
>said it was a faulty knock sensor. they replaced the sensor
>but I still hear the noise. I have tried the "torque
>converter cover fix", the "Y pipe heat shield removal
>fix",and none of these have worked. Thanks for any advice!

The early V-10's suffered from what's known as flutter.Basically it's an exhast harmonics problem that caused a light diesel type noise on V-10 trucks.Ford redesigned the Y pipe on later models(yours)to help relieve this phenomenon.They necked it down.I believe the rpm that this occurs is around 2000.I have a slight moan and light rattle type noise in the area underneath the passengers side floorboard that occurs between 1800rpm and 2200rpm when acelerating normally on my 02.I am about positive that this noise is exhast related on my SD.It doesn't really bother,me but it is a bit noticable if I pay attention to it.

Might this be what you are experiencing?

 

>Ah,,, fabulous, I am SO looking forward to doing THIS now,
>heehee. So R2, since I basically have the same 'doghouse'
>you do w/my E-350, what kind of tools did it entail ? Any of
>the plugs really hard to get to ? How about pulling off the
>coil/plugcap thing ? What WOULDN'T you do again the next
>time around ? What WOULD you do earlier this time around ?
>What kind of lifter noise are you experiencing ? I get a not
>too loud clicking only after my rig has sat all night. It
>lasts for maybe 15 seconds, even lats after the oil pressure
>comes up. It definitely sounds like a tappet, or a lifter.
>It never does it any other time, only in the morning. Even
>when the rig sits for 4-5 hours, it doesn't do it, only
>after it gets completely cold and sits for 8+ hours. It runs
>and drives fine. It goes like heck. I get great (my a heavy
>footed V-10 driver) mileage, and generally LOVE my truck,
>except this lifter noise. It drives me nuts. Ken 98 E-350
>XLT V-10 E4OD 15 passenger Club Wagon

No tools to remove doghouse, just clips. Each plug has a round plastic top with a rubber boot attached below it. Each also has one bolt which is all that holds it down. The rubber boots were a little stuck in some cases but with patience they came loose. I didn't pull on the wires of course. I wondered if the wires could be unplugged from the round plastic top but couldn't tell so didn't try. To make it easier to get at two plugs I did loosen and slightly move a piece of gear on the drivers side. I don't know what the specific piece of gear was but it was mounted on a bracket and all I did was remove the two bolts that held the bracket and it allowed better access. I used a flashlight to look down each plug hole for anything out of the ordinary. Used vacuum to pick up any dirt outside and around the top of the plug hole. Cleaned the outside of the boots and re-installed being careful not to cross-thread the single holddown bolts. My lifter noise sounds just like you described. It only shows up after engine has sat all night and goes away in a couple of minutes.

 

Rob, sorry for the delay to get back to you, my puter took a lightning strike and I am on a backup till my parts come in.
The V10 chassis only have a pump in the tank, inside that corrugated wrap is your pink wire. Give it a check.
Did any of your sparkplug boots have a residue on them? If so that was the leaking one.
Tim

 

Ron, you can use a constant power source, your relay will be the switch, make sure you fuse it.
Sorry about the delay, my puter broke. Tim

 

Sorry about your puter Tim. They crash enough without any help from above. To answer your question, all the rubber boots were clean with nothing on them except a little dust/grime on the section of the boot that was outside the head (ie not down the well). Thanks for the info on the fuel pump. I'll look again and see if it is feasible to get at the "pink & black" wire. Those festidious Mennonite folks that make the Triple E products are rather fond of wire wraps and covering everything over in spray foam insulation. Must have something to do with where they live. I hear it gets down to 40F below or less in Manitoba. Again thanks for the help and best of luck on your new/upgraded puter. That thunderbolt story was just a line you gave the wife so you could get a new puter wasn't it????