OK. If I am reading you right, with your meter set on ohms, and not connected to anything, you get OL(overload, or open circuit=infinite resistance). That's OK. When you short them together, you get 0 ohms and that's good. 0 ohms = 0 resistance.

Now what I'm not sure what you did after that, when you said you check both terminals on the connector.

What you need to do to check the coil is first disconnect the plug going to the coil.

Set the meter to ohms.

From your meter, put the red wire to either connection on the coil, then the black wire to the other connector. With resistance (ohms), wire colors make no difference when reading across the coil.

That ohm reading is important. An OL reading indicates the coil is open. A reading of almost 0 ohms indicates the coil is good. A reading below 1 ohm is likely a shorted coil.


So I think that's what you are saying you did and if you really got an OL reading, and you are sure you were on both of the connectors to the coil, then the coil is bad and you'll need to replace the assembly consisting of the clutch, pulley, and coil.

Just make sure you are really on the connector correctly as if you aren't, the meter is still going to read OL.

But everything you have said so far leads toward an open coil. I just hate for you to replace it unless you are 100% sure that you were on both of those connector pins.

 

Hey!

That's what I did. So it must be a bad coil. So off to the store I go to geta new clutch. It's seems pretty straight forward to replace. I know I saw on this string or somewhere else on this forum how to do it.

A big thanks to everybody who helped me on this, and stuck with me. I feel confident it's the coil from your advice. I'll let you know when I get the new one in, and see if it works!!

THANK YOU!!

Rudy

 

Looks like you may make out better than me as AZ has yours for $82.

 

Run by Sears and buy a new meter....

Steve

 

Hello All!

Good news is I know how to change out a ac clutch. Bad news is didn't help. I doubled check to make sure I was full on the 134. I'm going to get a new relay, and double check that again. I fear it's some bad wiring somewhere. I don't even know how to begin to troublehoot that. The wires are bundled up everywhere.

By the way, I noticed in my book, the relay is 10amps for the AC, but 15amps for something else. But the relays are exactly the same. Is that right? And what is the best way to check a relay?

Thanks!

Rudy

 

This is where you're going to just about need a schematic. If you got the one ProjectSoho sent you then that's where to start. I don't have one for your vehicle so I can't help there much. I'm willing to keep helping you, if no one else continues, but I'll need some schematics that you'll have to send me if you need me to look. PM me for my email if you decide to do that.

I don't remember what you checked earlier but if you haven't checked fuses, you need to do that.

 

I am having a similar issue and have looked into this myself. Anyone correct me if I am wrong. You should not connect the negative of your tester to your negative battery post. Connect both test leads to the connector. Set your testerto the closest voltage you expect without being under. i.e. if your measuring 12VDC and have 2 settings 10V or 50V use the 50V setting. Make sure you read the correct scale for analon meters.

Your compressor clutch has a 2 wire connector on it. Test these two wires with your leads. You may need to remove the center plastic piece on the connector to get your leads down to the metal connectors. Here you should get 12V in DC if it is working correctly. If you het this and your clutch is not engaging then the clutch is bad. This clutch is an electro magnet type. If not nothing here or much less than 12V DC here move on to the next part.

Up on your passenger side under the hood there is a black or other color can that is part of your a/c. Follow the a/c hoses to it if needed. On this can there may be pressure valves and connectors under screw on caps(some look like a tire valve type). On this unit there is a pressure switch that screws into the side with a 2 wire connector going to it, this is your safety/pressure switch. (make sure your 2 wire connector on the compressor is back on) Pull this pressure connector off and jump it with a wire on the wire harness side, you need the key on and your selector inside set to a/c. If you left the other connector on your compressor on it may click or not. If it clicks you found your problem...almost. You know that either the pressure switch is bad or the gas in your system is low. Now you need to go to your a/c specialist and tell them what you found. I'm still trying to find out but I assume if you unscrew the pressure switch you might lose the gas and that is dangerous and bad for the environment. DO NOT LEAVE THE JUMPER IN TO USE YOUR A/C...IF THE GAS IS LOW YOU COULD BURN UP YOUR COMPRESSOR BECAUSE IT IS LUBRICATED BY THE REFRIGERANT.

If it does not click it might be a bad switch in the dash (selector switch) these are easy to change.

Hopefully I helped someone.

This is where I am: I know either my pressure switch is bad or the freon is low. I'll try to post my results once I get it fixed tomorrow. Great forum.

 

I am assuming that you did pull a vacuum before you recharged your A/C?

If all is well, you should get 12V across the 2 coil wires, with the ignition on, motor not running, and the A/C turned on in the car.

If this is not happening, you have other problems.

Id sure hate to have to replace a clutch if I didnt have to!

 

I didn't pull a vacuum, not even sure what that is. LOL Too late for replacing the clutch, I already did that. Thank God it's fall, and the heat works. My tach needle doesn't work, the cd player keeps ejecteing, even when there is no cd's in it. I think it may be something electrical.

 

I replaced the pressure switch and all is well. Wanted to let everyone know.

 

What's the pressure switch?

 

I explained that in my large post above. It senses the system pressure and was the cause of my clutch not engaging.