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Well, it's slick, alright. My $350 is off a little - finally tracked down a quote for $1400. That puts it out of my misery for a while. Another option is to use quick connects and keep the inverter in the toolbos unless I'm using it. Much cheaper.
Depending on your power requirements you may want to consider an Odyssey battery's http://www.enersysreservepower.com/ody_b.asp They have some impressive output in rather small sizes although they do come at a steep price. I don't know if its out yet but they are supposed to come out with a 65 series direct replacement that would go into the e series battery mount I used or the oem position.
If your going to be using the inverter with the engine running I don't think your going to need all the battery's that you are thinking, however if you are intending for use with the engine off that's a another story.
Also the Ford battery mount is more like $100 something and that's with a very steep discount.
If you need any additional info on my setup let me know.
As I talk to you guys here, I'm constantly doing sanity checks on my setup. I posted a quick test a while back running a 1.5hp compressor off the truck batteries, engine running, and you're correct, I could do with smaller batteries. I am looking at the options at the local BatteryOne to see what they have. I will most likely get AGMs (~110 for fleet batts) just to keep maintenance down, and juggle capacity with space. One option is 2 6v in series, which may give a pretty good amp/hr rating. I still want to isolate the aux batteries from the truck batteries for safety sake, but I can see I don't have to go goofy with them.
Also the Ford battery mount is more like $100 something and that's with a very steep discount.
hmmm.. no kidding? I know I paid $50 for mine in 1999. I still have the reciept(but not the van or battery box). For $100+ it's just a steel box and some cables to support it during maintenance. I bet a local welder would charge you less if you let him build it in his free time.
As far as isolation, I believe to keep it simple. I would use a constant duty solenoid that engages with an ignition feed to engage your aux battery(s) This way you don't have to invest in an isolator and your oem charge system is unaltered. I have not had much luck with isolators in the past from a reliability standpoint.