I'm planning to get an 07 F-250 with the 6.0 Diesel and I've been reading all I can on the issues with the 6.0. From what I've read the most significant problem seems to be the head gaskets which appears to be a direct result of sticking vanes in the turbo causing an overboost and high pressure in the heads. The head bolts also seem to allow little margin for the overboost condition. I've read that the late 06s and 07s have the "commonization" heads but in all I could find on the changes it's unclear to me if the head bolts are actually larger on these newer engines (in one chart I found of the different part numbers the head bolt numbers are the same). Given that keeping the turbo vanes from sticking is so critical on these engines is there anything I can do to prevent future problems. These are some of the ideas I came up with after hours of reading about the 6.0 engine.

Use a good fuel additive
Periodically Inspect/Clean Turbo (?? miles)
Regularly clean EGR valve (?? miles)

I don't plan to run a tuner and I live in dry/desert area so rust shouldn't be too bad. If anyone knows of any other things I can do that doesn't cost big bucks like the ARP studs I would appreciate the insight from those who've been working with these engines.

Thanks,
Mark

 

the biggest thing that i have seen on the forum to help keep your turbo healthy is to work it. Idling and sitting for weeks seem to be the two culprits that cause the vanes to stick and cause the problems you read about. Lay into your turbo every once in a while to keep it free and it should avoid the issues

 

Absolutely; drive it like you stole it from time to time and you're more than likely to have no problems; especially if you run good fuel additive religiously.

 

Run it hard and run it often....

 

All 6L these days should have the new flash that cycles the vanes open and closed even during idling to help prevent sticking vanes, however "driving" the truck would be good assurance. Parking it for prolonged periods may be the only thing not good to do however I have noever a had a problem doing so.

The other culpret is the EGR system. Most disconnect (pull the wire harness) or disable it (with a tuner) or block off or delete the uppipe to the EGR cooler.

The stock head bolts appear marginal in strength on the 6L and can not tolerate some performance improvement and for some stock tuning levels it still stretches the bolts (mainly in the earlier models). The head bolts have not changed from my knowledge in any 6L but the head gaskets did; I believe in the 05 model and newer. In my opinion the head bolts is the vulnerable spot that Ford should have improved on for the 6L.

It is the tuned trucks or hard driving habits that bring the truck closer to the limits and more potential for problems. This is the case for any vehicle, make, model or vintage particulalry when being modified for such performances.

If you are running stock (untuned truck) you should have no concerns and love the truck as many others as Ford diesels outsells Dodge and Chevy combined.

 

BC, the flash you are talking about is the one after the buzz flash correct?

 

The later model motors have an updated turbo with increased vein clearance to help reduce sticking. Does it help? dunno. According to the current pole running on turbo's it's about 75/25 good to bad percentage wise, which is right in line with what Vloney got from Ford tech line. I wish it was a little more specific/scientific but what can you add to good or bad--lots I know, but....... I would be interested in knowing year model replacement percentage though, but you almost have to know when Ford started putting the updated turbo's into service to get a good poll.

 

Hi Im new here and was checking out some of the post and i saw mention of running a fuel additive. Is this a nescessity? Can someone fill me in on this? I just bought a 2005 F250 w/49K 6.0 TD. the truck will be used for towing a 37' toyhauler. BTW Ive already experienced the hose blowing off the turbo!

 

The unwritten rule is that a good quality fuel additive is a must, they help tremendously with the operation of the engine. I know I didn't have anymore EGR (until I disconnected it) or turbo problems after I started running conditoner in every tank. If you've had problems with IC hoses blowing off you may be seeing an indication of stuck vanes in the turbo, what are you seeing for max boost? If it's significantly higher than 27 psi you have a problem (unless you're running a tuner/chip of some sort, then you have other problems ).

 

In Kalifornea the recall flash program is 06E17, which disables the EB sensor as well.

 

Can you suggest a specific additive and what are the bennefits?

 

rikerdog:

Well opinions on additives are diverse if you do a search you'll find tons of info. But the short version is this:

The additives I've personally used are: Howes (Diesel Treat and PowerKleener), Bioarmor 4+; and PowerUp Gen49D. I would not hesitate to recommend any of them; personally I have found the PowerUp Gen49D to run the best for me and provide the most consistent improvements.

Additionally the following additives have a good reputation here: DieselKleen and Stanadyne

They all more or less do the same things: increase fuel lubricity; emulsify water in the fuel; improve the anti-gel characteristics in the fuel (some do not do this); clean the fuel system with detergents; improve the cetane rating of the fuel which provides cleaner more consistent burn and better cold starts (not all additives contain cetane improvers); and provide corrosion inhibitors to reduce fuel system corrosion.

In our trucks due to the EGR system anything you can do to reduce soot and provide cleaner, hotter burns will increase the life of your EGR valve and turbo.

Most importantly make sure the additive you use DOES NOT contain alcohols.

Other than that, choose your poison and run it religiously.

 

I'm sure I'll get grief from the dino oil users but I would recommend using a good SYNTHETIC engine oil to eliminate "coking" in the turbo and reduce "stiction" in the injectors. FWIW.

DSMMH

 

I only use ULSD fuel (<15ppm) as soon as it came available. Less sulfur and soot is always better than more.

I use fuel additives hoping for a cleaner burn and a more complete burn. I have no proof of this actually happening, but with 103,000 miles on my 2003 Excursion, I hope it is true?

I also drive my truck every day. I tend to drive it carefullyt and as a truck and not as a drag car or race car.

Turbo's tend to stick due to excessive soot, non-stock intakes allowing dirt into them and moisture in the winter time that can or does freeze on the vanes.

At every re-flash I have had done, it never shows a sticking EGR or turbo... which has been great, but does surprise me.

Good luck,

 

Hey, Cook-
Did you notice a mileage hit with the ULDS? Mine dropped off by 1.5 MPG! I stay away from it now.
Peaceful days-