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I'll buy every last word of that.. sounds on the money. I used an excess of moly lube on the lifter base, oil on the sides.. took "alot" of Carl's(beemernut) advice on the initial check this and that scenario.. went through the oil pump, you name it. Worried about the excess lube I squirted oil in each cylinder and rotated the engine a dozen times by hand squirting oil in the cylinders each 360º hoping to squeeze out excess lube on all the areas (cam bearing, crank, cam/lifter etc.. ) then primed that **** for about 20 min with a drill prior to startup LOL.. I was plenty sure the oil pump worked before we started her up LMAO! What I didnt do was spend the $$ on the heads for a fresh valve alignment so the tips are wavy if checked with a straight edge. Guessing that is my little tap tap issue. We'll have a look see this weekend and report. Praying a mild pushrod adjustment will solve the issue until 600.00 appears for fresh heads LOL
I agree. When a lifter is not turning it creates a hot spot and that is when the wear set in. Only other possibility I see here is to tight of clearance. I have wiped out a couple cams in my lifetime too. So when I built this engine I went in and made sure every lifter would spin and move freely in the lifter bores. Actually took some emory cloth and clean them up and installed each lifter one at a time and marked them as I checked them for proper movement. A little tedious, but figure it might svae me from problems later. Good luck on your rebuild. That really sucks what happen. But sure it has happen to the best of us.
ya I have a lifter problem right now too. it pumped up too quickly, after two pumps in the bore it quit moving and is solid as a rock now. all this with no oil pressure mind you. I suspect this means its plugged right? the rest pumped up with drill motor running the oil pump then released agian after the oil pump stopped. I have adjustables and was trying to set the preload when this happened. now I need to use a magnet and try to fish it out without taking the intake off.
It's so easy to set the preload without having the lifters filled with oil, why make things harder on ones self? Pre-oil when your done setting the valves.
This is why I and other friends use GM's E.O.S Assembly Lubricant the last couple of years as the zinc has been taken away in the oil. We have all wasted cams in the past, so far we all haven't had one failure.
Used for protection against run-in wear this includes cam lobes and lifters, piston scuffing, crank and cam bearings.
Read up on Crane's Mikronite process.
Not only do I use it for break-in but add up to one ounce per quart on every oil change on all flat tappet motors. I run it on catalytic equiped motors without any reduced cat function so far.
Overkill is a lot cheaper than rebuilding twice.
Question I have is where did all that hard lifter material go? Imbeded in the soft bearing material to cut up the crank as well imbeded in the pistons?
I would do a complete teardown and wash plus add a 1/4" x 2" long
magnet to the drain plug. Drill into and epoxy magnet into the plug.
I guess i'm **** now.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Aug 18, 2007 at 10:21 PM.
Well that was meant in a good way now... Someone who does the checklist all the way through and then again if in ? and again if need be and once more if it suits the need LOL
But has a rig that rolls without trolls.. is just a fella you might wanna listen to ?
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