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I got it scanned at, get this.... JIFFY LUBE!!! Haha. I was doing some research on what scanner to buy and Jiffy Lube came up in the search. I called them and they told me to show up and they would scan it for FREE. The scanner they used was the cheaper model available from Schucks for $129. It immediately showed my 02 sensor was bad. Unfortunately, it doesn't tell you which sensor is bad.
I am going to bite they bullet and purchase both of the sensors because I have 70,000 miles on the truck. Hopefully, the sensors have just worn out and I do not have something else causing the code to show up.
>I got it scanned at, get this.... JIFFY LUBE!!! Haha. I was
>doing some research on what scanner to buy and Jiffy Lube
>came up in the search. I called them and they told me to
>show up and they would scan it for FREE. The scanner they
>used was the cheaper model available from Schucks for $129.
>It immediately showed my 02 sensor was bad. Unfortunately,
>it doesn't tell you which sensor is bad.
>
>I am going to bite they bullet and purchase both of the
>sensors because I have 70,000 miles on the truck. Hopefully,
>the sensors have just worn out and I do not have something
>else causing the code to show up.
Yea well even buying both sensors is way cheaper than just having a Ford garage hook it up, not counting what they'd want to do any work to your rig !! So you're big bucks ahead, Jiffy Lube eh ? Huh, who would've thunk it, I'll keep that in mind. Glad it all worked out for you. Another case resolved on the FTE board, you guys RULE !!!
It's worth noting that the ODB-II system will tell you which sensor is bad. Sounds like the el-cheapo scanner may not read the full info though. Still, like Ken said, sensors aren't too expensive, so you'll still come out ahead.
The new Microtuner from Superchips is out and it is a scanner as well as giving you hp/torque and various other features....only $335. I am ordering tonight.
On the K&N issue, I read some studies that unless you are running 5000 RPM or more (in other words racing applications) there is no noticible difference on the dyno between my $7.00 Fram and your $50 K&N.
Just a thought...
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 02-Oct-02 AT 03:00 PM (EST)]Have to renew this thread. I am kinda shooting from the hip here since I don't have all the facts, YET! I replaced both sensors on the downpipes. When I was at Ford buying them, the guy told me there are 4 sensors. 2 on the downpipes and 2 in the cat. I figured I would takes my chances since they are $85 a pop and just do 2 of them. I looked at the cat briefly while under the truck. I didn't see anything in the cat.
Reset the check engine code and everything was cool until I was returning from lunch this afternoon. The light returned. Now I am thinking I have a legitimate problem with the engine. Called Ford, talked to the service writer and told me the other 2 sensors are more toward the rear axle.
I am thinking that Ford must have secretly bought Bosch and made them a subsidiary or something crazy.
I am gonna start by checking resistance on the sensors to try to find a bad one. Anyone know how to check this? If that fails, off to the garage she goes
>Called Ford, talked to the service writer and told me the other 2 sensors are more toward the rear axle.
I do not believe that there are sensors ofter the cat. Never trust a service writer, they are the ones who cannot turn wrenches. But then again, I could be wrong and then he can say, "Never trust a guy over the internet."
I'd crawl under the truck to make sure of all the sensor locations.
No Ford doesnt own Bosch. NGK makes several sensors (O2) for Ford. My 99 V10 has two upstream O2 sensors. None after the cat that I can find. Usually, an O2 sensor will cause a closed loop surge if it is bad. My wifes old Sundance only ran at an idle or if on the floor (open loop). Trying to hold a steady speed resulted in a noticeable surge. I believe O2 sensors have an emission warranty of 80,000 miles. Not sure. Read your owners manual. A buddies Dodge Ram had a bad one at 70,000 miles and they replaced it under warranty.
I finally gave up and took the truck in to the dealer yesterday. The fuel injection was only operating at 40% (bench tested injectors), there was a problem with the EGR and some sensor (DPFE? sensor in the EGR loop), and last but not least, the AIC valve was gummed up.
I guess I shouldn't be so damn stubborn next time the light comes on??? It just seems like it is usually the simple stuff, MAF sensors, etc, that cause the light to trigger.
Anyway, thanks for the inputs along the way. Glad to say I am all fixed up now. I should add that the throttle response is pretty incredible now.....imagine that!
I pull a 26' fifth wheel and had the same problem the engine light would come on after towing and go off when I reset the computer or drove for a couple hundred miles or so , each time it seem to take a little longer to go off. the bad news is my buddy works at ford and got the truck fixed for me and just told me it was a bad part that cost me about forty bucks , but he did find it by checking computer codes
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