Just a thought I had. My '89 F-150's t-case and tranny are out while I'm replacing the tranny and clutch. I busted quite a few knuckles getting it apart thanks to Ford's liberal use of red loc-tite. When I put this back together, can I use locking washers where loc-tite was used, or am I asking for problems?

 

There have been several threads on fasteners and lockwashers in the Garage and Workshop section.

A lot of guys prefer loctite. I think that one type is for stuff you may want to disassemble some day. However, the general opinion was that lockwashers were OK if you did them right.

Some interesting discussions. I think you'll find them if you search on fasteners.

ford2go

 

Use blue lock tight. It is medium strength and red is high strength.

 

Get an impact wrench or a bigger ratchet (I use 1/2" drive on most things with a 7/16" head or bigger).

Also, control your motions so you're not busting knuckles. I like to put a hand on the head of the ratchet to help me better feel when it starts to give and I can back off on the strength needed. I also pull by curling my fingers sometimes or push with my shoulder motion (small, but strong motions) versus using large-range motions like with my biceps or triceps. There's less chance of the socket or wrench slipping off and knuckles finding the sharpest part of the truck.

The various versions of Loc-Tite say what they are for on them. The stuff on factory Ford bolts (orangish) I've encountered seems to be somewhere between the blue and red, but doesn't seem to make it that hard to remove parts.

Jason

 

I second the blue loctite. If you're real paranoid, use it with lock washers.

 

Whatever you do, don't use green.

It's not comin' apart again!

Pop

 

Thats bearing loc isn't it?

 

There's a green loc-tite?? I friggin hate the red stuff, If I ever come across green I don't know what I'll do. Do they make the objects around the bolts that are tight/use loc-tite sharp on purpose just so my knuckles can regrow their skin every so often?

 

Oh yes

First, am not going to claim to be an expert, yet deal with a racing car where things WILL rattle apart rapidly due to extreme conditions (equiv. of making a NASCAR feel like a 1972 Caddy by comparison).

As for using red or Blue and a lock washer. First, i have ZERO confidence in a lock washer and have heard that they actually help CAUSE a bolt to back out as it puts pressure on the nut. Check the aerospace/aircraft/FAA handbooks. When dealing with Red Loc-Tite, you want to heat the work to around 500 degrees using a torch. Sure a good air gun will work...

If the manual states use red, then use it. As i recall, orange is more of a liquid for torque seal inspection that shows a seal (or sabatoge), see http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecId=3165 .

IF the orange is like the above substance, THEN Loc-tite blue should be fine. If the assembly needs a more durable assembly, then use Lot-tite red. In my track car (tin top) we used red on the main bolts that hold the flywheel/clutch assembly.

Again, Red is not that bad provided you heat the work. The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 500F for high temperature [red thread locking adhesives]. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride or the like to remove cured excess material.

 

It's factory spec to use green 640 on the crank bolts of VW and Audi. To remove the bolt you have to use a long breaker bar on the bolt and pull very hard. When it let's go it will feel like the bolt is twisting off, but it's the locktight letting go. There is no cracking or snapping sensation that you usually get with a bolt that has been secured for a few year. Just a plastic stretching sensation and the bolts begin to loosen.
It was pretty scary the first time for me, but those bolts are HUGE and they don't break.