cooling issue
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 503
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From: arizona
cooling issue
When, I drive my truck on the freeway or just keep moving, the temp gauge stays below half(even in this phoenix heat). But when I come to a stop, the temp gauge steadily climbs up until i start moving. So far i've only changed the radiator cap and that was just because it was old. I was thinking i could flush the radiator and change the thermostat. If i do that should i use the oe temperature t-stat or something else?
Or is it something else more likely?
Thanks for all input in advance, so far you guys have been really helpful.
Also, as far as the coolant, I know it has been in there for far too long.
Or is it something else more likely?
Thanks for all input in advance, so far you guys have been really helpful.
Also, as far as the coolant, I know it has been in there for far too long.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
If the radiator is old/original, then likely it's full of crud and the bottom half is clogged shut leaving minimal cooling area and allowing it to overheat as it sits in traffic. Sometimes you can have it flushed, sometimes they are too far gone. I got a brand new 3 core for my '67 352 and it was only $140. I think that was priced right, and it was on the shelf at local radiator shop.
Senior User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 432
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From: YORK S.C.
what year modek truck? it may or may not have a fan clutch..my 72 does NOT have one..and its original..have never had any overheating issues... i'd say it probably a radiator problem or you have a bad t-stat
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,834
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From: Piney Woods of East Texas
Fan clutches have good and bad features. I have launched 2, through my radiators at 5-6k, water pump shafts broke. It does make a mess. Don't want to do it to a 3rd time. I no longer buy remanfactured water pumps, new only. So I'm looking to go to electric fans.
The good is when the are working right, it only load the engine at idle when the engine is hot. Disengaging at higher speeds.
The good is when the are working right, it only load the engine at idle when the engine is hot. Disengaging at higher speeds.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2005
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From: YORK S.C.
i have had one go through the radiator on a 1986 bronco II that i just sold recently...made a big mess! since my 72 f-100 does not have one i don't have to worry about it,thank goodness since the radiator is only 2 years old
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
AZFord, You can flush the system yourself or have it done at a radiator shop. The latter will allow for the radiator itself to be checked.
I think you may have a worn out water pump. Some water minerals can corrode the fins on the pump, and without them, coolant isn't moved enough to cool when stopped.
I think I would grab three gallons of antifreeze and three gallons of distilled water, a water pump and sealant, a thermostat and gasket, new hoses. Once you have dropped the water, try flushing with a garden hose in both directions (back flushing) replace the water pump, hoses, and tstat.
When the system is dry a FE will hold about 4.5 gallons. I think I would dump 1 antifreeze and 1 water in and pour half of the next gallon of antifreeze into the empty jug and fill both up with the distilled water for a 50/50 mix to pour in. You will then have the third gallon to mix to add now or later. It is a good idea to keep 50/50 mixed coolant on hand. By using distilled water you are not adding minerals into the system that can aid corrosion.
hope this helps
John
I think you may have a worn out water pump. Some water minerals can corrode the fins on the pump, and without them, coolant isn't moved enough to cool when stopped.
I think I would grab three gallons of antifreeze and three gallons of distilled water, a water pump and sealant, a thermostat and gasket, new hoses. Once you have dropped the water, try flushing with a garden hose in both directions (back flushing) replace the water pump, hoses, and tstat.
When the system is dry a FE will hold about 4.5 gallons. I think I would dump 1 antifreeze and 1 water in and pour half of the next gallon of antifreeze into the empty jug and fill both up with the distilled water for a 50/50 mix to pour in. You will then have the third gallon to mix to add now or later. It is a good idea to keep 50/50 mixed coolant on hand. By using distilled water you are not adding minerals into the system that can aid corrosion.
hope this helps
John
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Westminster, Colorado
what is the proper temp? I have one of those aftermarket temp gauges on mine. It usually hovers in the 190-200 range for regular driving, but it also rises up around 220-225 when stuck in Denver traffic. Is that too hot?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Originally Posted by Unimog005
what is the proper temp? I have one of those aftermarket temp gauges on mine. It usually hovers in the 190-200 range for regular driving, but it also rises up around 220-225 when stuck in Denver traffic. Is that too hot?
Sometimes ya gotta let these ol trucks have their way. Low oil pressures and high temps may not mean much if they have been that way for a while. IMHO
John
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,834
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From: Piney Woods of East Texas
The 220-225 is not real bad. Engines these day develope more HP as they warm up. As long as you are not boiling over your fine. It will require more frequent oil changes, falls under severe usage. Install a good syn oil and don't worry about it.
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: arizona
Yeah I think what i will do is drain the radiator, put super flush and water in for a couple of days and then really flush it out. I'll change the t-stat and hoses while I'm at it. If that doesn't work, i'll have to just go from there.
I was wondering though should I just stick with the oe 195 thermostat?
Thanks,
Mike
I was wondering though should I just stick with the oe 195 thermostat?
Thanks,
Mike
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,834
Likes: 260
From: Piney Woods of East Texas
I use 196 in my 360, I like heat in the winter months. An my engine runs better with it. Mine heats up during traffic then drops soon as I start moving, 100F w/AC on. If you watch nascar you will see they don't start worrying about water temp till it gets over the 130-140. And these are pushed to edge, only design to do 1 race. Where the engines these day we drive should do 100-200k, depending when and where built.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2007
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Also, Royal Purple makes "Purple Ice" and Redline makes "Water Wetter." Both do the same job-they lower the surface tension of the coolant mix so the fluid flows better. Sounded weird to me, too when I first heard about it. Works and all my rigs have it in their cooling systems (it won't fix problems, just improves effeciency).