how in the WORLD do you get to the rear pedestal bolt thats right under the exhaust manifold pipe? i have tried everything it seems like. i REALLY dont want to pull the collector pipe off unless i just have to. anyone have any tricks?

-cutts-

 

PITA for sure. The drivers side can be removed w/ a 1/4in drive 10mm socket and swivel. For the pass side one I had to cut down a 10mm wrench to get enough room to actually move the wrench. You may have to break it loose and tighten it with a longer wrench but to move the bolt in or out you'll most likely need to use a short wrench in there. I scraped my hands up pretty good on the uppipe and my hands aren't that big. Another big help might be removing the hood. Then you can get right on top of it if you need to. A mirror might help too. Try using a big pad and blankets to lay across the top of the engine. Be patient and have fun!!

 

i tried getting a 3/8" drive socket in there with a swivel but apparently it was too big. i am gonna have to stop somewhere and get a swivel for my 1/4".

removing the hood is more than likely out of the question... i pretty much am working alone and gettin someone out to help me pull it would be more trouble than its worth, i mean i have gotten this far without having to. but who knows, i might end up needing to!

luckily i already have, after removing the EBPV i was easily able to get a stubby on it and break it loose.

thanx for the insight... i'll get a swivel tonight and try the u-joint method

thanx

-cutts-

 

Jason, the 1/4 10mm is the only way on the driverside. And like my NM brother said, you may have to modify a wrench, I did. I think I modded one for the bolts on the collector the up pipes come into. To break the pass rear, I used a pry bar against the firewall. If you want a modified pedistal to get rid of the ebpv I can put you in touch with the guy that does it. As far as the exhaust housing, I pulled the butterfly and ground down the castings for the rod and welded the holes closed. Super easy. Anyway, if you are interested, you have my #.

 

Having just finished my turbo this morning literally, including replacing the y-pipe donuts, you are in for a treat. I would recommend the following tools and I will help you step by step if you need it.


10 mm 6-point swivel socket, or wobble if you are lucky enough to have one.
10 mm long box end wrench, it WILL get the passenger side rear out.
15 mm flex head ratcheting wrench for bottom nuts on y-pipe flange
several lengths of 1/4 drive extensions with a thumb drive as a bonus
13 mm socket with long extension, can be 3/8 drive for upper y-pipe flange bolts.

Once you remove it the first time it becomes easier. I highly recommend that when you go to re-install pedestal that you use some electrical tape and tape the rear pedestal bolts to the pedestal just above the lower edge of the oil galley section in place. If you do not they will hang over and over and you will lose your mind. Please keep posting questions as you need them. I have taken my turbo out no less than four times now, due to a poorly machined surface on the oil inlet and drain section.

I would also highly recommend that you take your y-section off and replace those donuts while you are in there. You have to loosen the up-pipes from the bottom at the exhaust collectors first in order to lift off the y-section.


The key to removing the rear driver pedestal bolt is to take the EBPV solenoid clamp off first. This will give you more room to access the bolt. Good Luck Buddy!

 

Also make sure you get a 1/4" swivel that has a lifetime warrenty I replaced my craftsman one 3 times already and it seems like thats how many times I've pulled the turbo. Its just too small for this job but it is the easiest

 

Yep, there is a good chance you might break the first one, so Craftsman would be my choice. I got lucky and have not broken one in the multiple times I have pulled my turbo.

BTW, there is no need to remove your hood. It will not gain you anything other than perhaps more light. Get a nice thick blanket and lay on your front section back into the rear of the compartment.

 

thanx guys, i rellay appreciate your help. I hope to have this thing off and my turbo on tonight.

i'll go ahead and pick up a few of those swivels. i think at tractor supply they are $1-2 each on the clearance rack

-cutts-

 

Let us know how much of a difference there is if any. Good luck.

 

I found this in my PC, some thinks are the same, but I think it can help you_


So I am just trying to remove the turbo and I am down to the last bolt. But how do I get to it? I'm sure someone knows what I am talking about as it is one of four on the base and seems to be under the turbo. I can't even see it. So I am assuming that I need to remove something else to get to it. Have any idea's?<O></O>

If you mean the left rear, here ya go:

1/4" drive 6 point shorty 10mm socket, then a 1/4" drive swivel, a 3" or so 1/4 drive extension, and then a rachet of your choice, 1/4 or 3/8" with an adapter.

It'll be hard to see, ya have to feel it out, after you've done it a few times, it's a piece of cake. It's about an inch to the left of the right rear pedistal bolt.<O<O
If you are laying on the engine facing the windsheild, you have to go between the turbo base flange and the EBPV piston. Use the tools listed. Be careful you don't go too far with the socket or you might get it caught between the turbo base and the screw.<O

BTW, when you are bolting everything together, leave the bolts that fasten the exhaust housing to the center section loose. Once you get the turbo back in place, look at the turbo base flange and see how it lines up. If all looks good then tighten the turbo base bolts first. Then tighten the exhaust housing to the center section. If the base is not parallel to the base of the up-pipes, then you can install the bolts in the EBPV screw holes and use a pry bar against the bolts to rotate the housing in the right direction to make the flanges parallel. Once you rotate it to the right position, then tighten the base bolts and then the housing to the center section bolts. I hope this makes sense
If you laying on the engine:

The left side can be loosened with a ratchet wrench or a box wrench. Only loosen or it will get pinched and you will be screwed.

After that use the 1/4" cocktail of pieces but put a wrap of tape around the swivel. It helps keep it in place.

On the right one a light and a mirroe stuffed into the fire wall allows you to see the bolt before you get your fingers in there.

Be ready to break a socket or two. <O></O>

 

That is a good write up! It is true and my favorite part of it all is " a cocktail of 1/4 inch hardware". That is very true. A variety of adapters, swivels, and thumb drive are the ticket. Nice post.

 

i really appreciate everyones help! i just came in for a sec to cool down and grab a frosty beverage before proceeding with the install. i hope to be able to drive it around tom night. still have a lot of small things to wrap up

just so you know the 1/4" drive swivel joint, stubby extension and a long extension did the trick. the bolt broke loose rather easy! i was expecting much worse... prolly why it went so well, lol.

thank you again everyone for the advice and help

-cutts-

 

hot diggity it looks good

have to wait till tom to fire it up and try it... gotta go get my oil bucket from the shop and pick up some new intake parts as well as a new filter as required by BDS!

thanx again for all the help... any of you ever around my neck of the woods be sure to stop by. i'll by the first couple of rounds and we can diesel up around here terrorizing the ricers

-cutts-

 

I might be in left field but what turbo are you putting back on?

 

Dominator 66 from Beans http://www.beansdieselperformance.com/94-97turbo.htm

nothing super fancy but it fits my bill. i dont want something to outrageous, just something i can tow better with

-cutts-