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for u guys with pyrometers i am just wondering i have the stock down pipe but i have no cat or muffler and i got a tymar intake i want 2 know what ohm resistor would i be safe using??? i currently have a 10k but i want some black smoke more then what i got now but i don't have the money for a pyro yet
To be honest I have a 10K with 3.5" DP and 4" exhaust and AFE intake. I do roll a little smoke but when I pull a fairly light load or when empty and climbing hill on I-state in the summer. My pyro gets to 900-950 and mine is installed post turbo. From what I understand there is 300* difference between pre and post. Therefore I am seeing 1200-1250 degrees EGT's factory with thge mods listed. IMO, I wouldn't go for smoke till you get the exhaust and DP done. I wouldn't go with any smaller than 4" exhaust. Sometimes patience is a virtue and in this case it may save your motor.
powerstrokeddiesel better save money no making smoke and save it for a pyro. LOL.
BTW, Neal some guy has two gauges in his truck, one pre and another post and he says that in the top (1200 pre) the differences can be till 400, and after that (more than 1200, the differences increase, he doesnt know how much because he is in the safe range most of the time.
The only way you'll be safe with a 5.6k is with a EGT gage. You just won't know when to let off untill it's too late. I can hit 1250 with stock prgramming with an bigger DP and 6637 open filter.
Last edited by Cuda_jim; Aug 14, 2007 at 07:02 PM.
sounds like ur dead set on rolling coal, i understand, but i am going to echo everyone else here. since u dont have a gauge i would not even think about going lower resistor until i got the bigger dp. even then, like jim said, you'll never know without the gauge. 10k alone is dangerous with stock dp if you get a load on it.
Don't forget the $4-5K for the tranny too. Seriously, everyone here is going to say the same thing. WHen the mods bug hits you we'll be more than happy to spend your $$, it's just not in most guys nature here to help you spend $$ you don't need to.
well there has 2 be somebody that knows if it will be safe 2 go for the 5.6k resistor
It depends entirely on your interpratation of what "safe" is. Here's the thing, some of these trucks can go past 1200 degrees completely stock. If you have been running a 10K mod without gauges and you like to roll the coal, it is very likely that you have already been past 1200 degrees a number of times. Switching to a 5.6K resistor is not going to make a huge difference in your maximum EGT since the resistor mainly adds fuel to the bottom end.
The bottom line is, if you feel you were safe running the 10K without a pyro, then nothing changes by switching to a 5.6K. You'll be no more or less safe that you already are.
The PSD is not going to magically implode just because you past 1200 pn the pyro. It takes either a good bit more heat than that, or sustaining 1200+ for a very long time do do any actual damage.
Last edited by cookie88; Aug 14, 2007 at 08:22 PM.
wow, cookie, i'm glad you posted that b/c i was starting to get a little worried about the fact that i'm running a 5.6k. oh well i pulled about 10k the other day with my 5.6k up a pretty big hill from a dead stop and the motor isn't blown yet. i guess i'm going to wait to order my chip and downpipe until i can afford the guages as well, cause i'll bet when i was pulling that hill my egt's probably got pretty out of hand. when i stopped at the next light i saw quite a bit of heat vapor coming out of my stacks in the shadow on the ground.
Is 300 degrees the difference on post turbo pyros? I pull a fifth wheel, and sometimes on hard pulls will flash to 1000-1100 degrees for 30 seconds or so....sure dont want to melt exhaust valves and ring lands etc. !! I have the pyro just past the turbo outlet in the first bend of the 3" full flow DP.
Is 300 degrees the difference on post turbo pyros? I pull a fifth wheel, and sometimes on hard pulls will flash to 1000-1100 degrees for 30 seconds or so....sure dont want to melt exhaust valves and ring lands etc. !! I have the pyro just past the turbo outlet in the first bend of the 3" full flow DP.
Mo
I read a couple threads that said the higher the EGT gets the bigger the difference gets between pre and post turbo like RÖENTGEEP said. I'll post them if I can find them.
I trid the 5.7k resistance and its too low of a resistance you have lots of low end torque but it had a prob reving past 2100-2200rpmthe engine will spudder and defuel and wont let it rev I think it too muck fuel for the engine to actually burn. and the Idle is absolutely terrible, bad enough with just the 10k. I would go with 10k or maybe make a 7k or 8k. You can solder resistors end to end of each other then use a mulitmeter to check the resistance of the set till u get what you want.
-----------Jeremy
like cookie said, it only helps on the low end. basically makes your hpop put out at idle what it normally would at a higher rpm or higher load--the pcm uses a lot of factors to determine icp. once you get up in the revs and/or are really getting into it the pcm's got the pressure pretty high anyway or maxxed. dont know the numbers.
just thought of a question, does the 10k or 5k or whatever mod affect the max hpop pressure? guess it depends on whether the max is determined by the abilities of the hpop/ipr or is it determined by the pcm because it reads what is programmed as the max pressure and it limits the hpop/ipr from making more pressure.
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