We just got back from a trip to the mountains of Colorado. The lack of an engine/jake brake made the steep downhills a white knuckle experience with the the two atv's on the rack in the long bed and the 31' travel trailer in tow! This is the 2nd year we've done this with the '01 7.3L LB dully and I don't want to do it again w/o a jake/engine brake. Any brands good or bad? About how much will one cost installed?

Also had some trouble with the transmission heating up on the long downhills due to no rpm's...will a jake/engine brake help or do I need additional tranny cooling?

 

Do a search on the EBPV mod on here. I did it and it works great. If you have an a/t you will need a t/c lock. More will chime in I'm sure. It will cost less the ten bucks when done.

 

The transmission temp heat is caused from the convertor unlocking and going into a fluid coupling mode. This will sheer the oil and cause transmission temps to go up quick. With the proper torque convertor lock up installed you should be able to eliminate most of the heat. A tranny cooler a deep oil aluminum oil pan never hurts on a 4R100 or E4OD as well.

If you install at the BD Torque Loc Brake controller you will also be able to control the lock up acceleration which will help keep the temps down while pulling as well.

We have some options for you and a member discount on all the above mentioned products, if you are interested PM me for further details.

Hope this helps

 

The closest thing you can get is an exhaust brake. No such thing as a Jake brake for a 7.3.

 

The EBPV option is a great inexpensive options but has downsides, do your homework...

 

Not to be a SA but what are the down sides? I no longer have this mod since I've gone in a different direction. With the 6spd mine was micro switch activated and still worked as normal in cold weather. If your trying to sell something I would expect more than the general statement posted above.

 

Not trying to sell anything, do not get paid commission and am just on the forums to help out and we do sell the EBPV kits as well. I tried to post the differences here once and it turned into the biggest pee match ever, I can post the thread link if anyone wants to read 10 pages of argumentative BS.

The biggest difference is how back pressure is controlled, with the EBPV valve you have no safety to control back pressure an prevent floating an exhaust valve. It is unlikely that this will occur but is not impossible, in 5 years I have seen it 3 times now. So although you will save $1000.00 on a EBPV kit there is a chance you will have to re-build the top end if you catch a valve, like I said it is unlikely but most of the guys telling people to buy the EBPV kits neglect to inform them of this.

So I hope this helps as I am just trying to educate, not sell. For those of you here who know me and have dealt with me you know that. I have gone way out of my way here numerous times and have given stuff away on here for free just to help out so you can see I get a little offended when someone accuses me of selling BD's product as my objective.

 

Dave, I threw out the engine brake option weather it be Jake or the exhaust brake. one i dont know the difference. However i was Told that something with the 7.3's fuel injectors because they are fired hy the High pressure oil, For some reason i cant remember why but i was told it was bad so i threw out the idea a while ago.

 

I just had the Power Braker installed in my truck. It's Awesome!!!

 

Ok My question to you is, did this happen with a BD kit or a stock ebpv? Seems that you guys say that the stock ebpv is inferior because it doesn't seal well enough. To float an exhaust valve would take a pretty good seal.

I'm in no way saying you don't have a good product because you do. There are many people that don't have the knowledge to do this type of mod on there own. For them you are the answer. To say that those that want to do this on their own will harm there engine is misleading. Still you give general statements to push your product. I call BS!

 

I would rather spend the little time I have in a day helping people than arguing this topic again. I was just trying to help out that's why my focus was on the original concern, transmission heat, I guess because I am a manufacturer my opinion is not wanted. I am sorry if your thread got hijacked wildbyonI hope you get a product that is suitable and you get those trans temps beat.

 

Dave at BDPower,
your company makes two types of exhaust brakes(not counting the EBPV), the one right at the turbo and the other further down stream in the exhaust pipe. Would you care to discuss which is more desirable and why ? I am considering an exhaust brake and have almost the same conditions as the original poster 'wildbyon' ,except with me it's the SoCal mountains. It seems that no matter where I want to go, I have to go up a mountain and then back down. Going home it's the same thing. I would prefer the exhaust pipe kit. Note, if you prefer to take this off line that would be OK with me . It's up to the forum.
THanks

 

I hear you about being in the mountains, Ocean to the left, rockies to the right.

Correct we make a turbo mount and a remote mount under the cab in the straight section of the pipe. Most of the time I recommend a turbo mount for ease of install, you replace the EBPV valve with the air actuated brake that bolts right up to the turbo. With the remote brake you will have to cut a section of exhaust out and use clamps to mount the brake. The brake works just as effectively mounted under the truck but is also more exposed to weather especially if you are in snowy areas. The reason we offer remote mounted brakes is for situations where the turbo mount will not fit, like a motor home, a custom application or when an after market turbo with a different outlet size has been installed that the turbo mount brake will not bolt/clamp up to.

Hope this helps

 

Thanks for all the help. Even though we got a little side tracked for a while, I still got some good information.

 

now worries, that happens some times.

good luck!