Front Axle Seal Replacement
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Front Axle Seal Replacement
I am hoping anyone who has replaced the oil seals inside the front differential will give me some advice.
I am being quoted $600 in labor, I am going to try it myself as I heard there is no gear setup since I will not be removing the pinion. Is this true? I will just have to put the carrier back in and put the shims back on the proper side, torque it in?
Is this a pain to try with the steering components in front of the differential?
What all will I have to pull off to get the axles to slide out?
How much more work would it be to do the balljoints while it is apart that far?
Thanks as always!
I am being quoted $600 in labor, I am going to try it myself as I heard there is no gear setup since I will not be removing the pinion. Is this true? I will just have to put the carrier back in and put the shims back on the proper side, torque it in?
Is this a pain to try with the steering components in front of the differential?
What all will I have to pull off to get the axles to slide out?
How much more work would it be to do the balljoints while it is apart that far?
Thanks as always!
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 597
Likes: 22
From: Central Maine
You do not need to take the ball joints off to slide the axles out, but you are pretty much ready to to the ball joints at that point. You just need to rent a ball joint presser clamp and have the new ball joints handy. You will need to pop off the left and right outter tie rods as well, if you do the ball joints, which will leave the front axle perfectly exposed. I think the seals are exactly as you state. I do not think the pinion even has to come out (unless that seal is leaking too). May want to buy some new dust boot seals ($12 ea aftermarket) and inner hub seals ($44 OEM only) as well. And if you haven't already done the yellow hub o ring ($9 ea), go ahead and get it and some needle bearings ($12 ea). Holy cow, that is a lot of stuff considering you just have a leaking oil seal! I tend to error on the side of preventative maintenance though...
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Spring Lake
Originally Posted by Ed in Maine
You do not need to take the ball joints off to slide the axles out, but you are pretty much ready to to the ball joints at that point. You just need to rent a ball joint presser clamp and have the new ball joints handy. You will need to pop off the left and right outter tie rods as well, if you do the ball joints, which will leave the front axle perfectly exposed. I think the seals are exactly as you state. I do not think the pinion even has to come out (unless that seal is leaking too). May want to buy some new dust boot seals ($12 ea aftermarket) and inner hub seals ($44 OEM only) as well. And if you haven't already done the yellow hub o ring ($9 ea), go ahead and get it and some needle bearings ($12 ea). Holy cow, that is a lot of stuff considering you just have a leaking oil seal! I tend to error on the side of preventative maintenance though...
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,859
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From: Middleville, MI
save yourself the trouble and have the seal pressed on to the axle shaft.... i did mine last week and damaged the seal a little trying to muscle it on.
i read somewhere that someone got a dealer to do it for free, another was charged $10.
i read somewhere that someone got a dealer to do it for free, another was charged $10.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 6,245
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From: IL, USA
Correct that you won't need to setup the gears since you won't be changing anything there.
You'll need to torque the bearing caps back to stock specs when you reinstall. You may want/need a case spreader to make it easier to get the diff out.
You'll dissassemble pretty much everything, just leaving the knuckles on the axle....including the steering so that you have easy access to the front diff.
As for balljoints...as was mentioned, you'll be ready to go, just knock the knuckles off and swap in new ball joints. Like they said....the knuckles do require some persuasion in their removal.
You'll need to torque the bearing caps back to stock specs when you reinstall. You may want/need a case spreader to make it easier to get the diff out.
You'll dissassemble pretty much everything, just leaving the knuckles on the axle....including the steering so that you have easy access to the front diff.
As for balljoints...as was mentioned, you'll be ready to go, just knock the knuckles off and swap in new ball joints. Like they said....the knuckles do require some persuasion in their removal.
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Case Spreader? Will the carrier not fit out without it?
As for having the seals pressed on, do you mean have them pressed into the tube themselves, cause if I have it all torn apart, theres no way I can drive it somewhere. I was under the impression it was just a oil seal, (metal outer and rubber inner) and I would just drive it in with a hammer and some sort of round object.
Is there a special tool to do this?
Are the ball joints a PITA because of their size? If I have the proper tools, a balljoint press, etc will it be bad?
As for having the seals pressed on, do you mean have them pressed into the tube themselves, cause if I have it all torn apart, theres no way I can drive it somewhere. I was under the impression it was just a oil seal, (metal outer and rubber inner) and I would just drive it in with a hammer and some sort of round object.
Is there a special tool to do this?
Are the ball joints a PITA because of their size? If I have the proper tools, a balljoint press, etc will it be bad?
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I just went to ford and looked at the seal. It looks very complex to say the least. Looked like two seals pressed together. Does the seal fit into the diff itself of attach to the axleshaft?
If it fits into the differential case, how do I press it into the tube? Is there a special tool or something?
If it fits into the differential case, how do I press it into the tube? Is there a special tool or something?
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