Hello.... Have anyone her built a v10 marine or no off anyone.... need info....or web side.

Not so god english....

Tom norway......

 

I always thought that the V10 would make a good motor in a boat.

A V10 with open headers, water injected exhaust at 6,000rpm would sound awsome. It would turn some heads.

 

Oh my imagination. That would be a sweet fix. I was out on the water all week this past week and as good as those Mastercrafts and Ski Nautiques sound, I wouldn't mind having somethin that stands out from the rest. Get a good old hull, beef it up some and throw a 4.6 or 5.4 in there. It'd have to be a wide boat and you may as well go big since you'll have the motor to push it. W/ a V10, you'd for sure be the first boat w/ wheelie floats!

 

aluminum head motors usually do nit get a Marine adaptation because the heat exchanger for salt water is always cast iron and the salt water caused to much corrosion damage to the aluminum heads... I do not think there are any mods for the V10 in an marine application

 

Scarab Boat company used to use a V-12 in their offshore boats and you could tell when one was coming by just the sounds. They even had a dual set-up in the bigger boats. The Aluminum heads will work on a closed cooling system or in fresh water lakes. I am a marine mechanic and have seen alot of aluminum used in boats. Just have to flush them out more often with fresh water. I am sure the Ford V-10 would make an awesome powerplant, you would just need it to turn above 5000 rpm alot and not come apart.

 

Crankin' it to 6 or 7k shouldn't be a problem. They're pretty stout engines. The cams are made for low rpm power in a truck, so you'd need to have cams made, and probably just throw some ARP hardware in the bottom end. The rest of these motors are pretty strong. You might even think about trying to find a set of 4 valve heads (or have them made).

 

That's interesting, the only heat exchangers I've seen in the past, well, almost 20 years, have been bronze/brass/whatever.

At long as you have a sealed "fresh water" (antifreeze) cooling system, and paint the exposed areas of the heads and timing cover, it shouldn't be a problem with salt water.

I'd be more worried about the drive - how to get a V10 to bolt up to a Mercruiser/OMC/Volvo Stern Drive. First run of the 4.6L had a 302 bellhousing bolt pattern, but that doesn't help with the V10.

Can the original poster supply more information about the project? What outdrive?

As for high-revs, not necessary, just gear the outdrive appropriately and get a big enough prop to do some good with the V10's grunt

 

Hi... The engine is a 2001 excursion gone 60.000 miles... and the mods closed cooling system and self made heat exchangers or som water cooled manifolds....and i tink i have to make a bell house my self.oil cooler and bigger oilsump.....and drive im not sure volvo duoprop\Mercruiser any tips....the boat is a 24 fot.......

tanks so far folks....

 

I'm not sure if Volvo is easier to get parts for you or not, but Mercruiser does make reliable and CHEAP outdrives. Use a later model Merc Bravo unit meant for Chevy 454/502, the gearing can be 1.8:1, 2.0:1, or 2.2:1

What size boat is this going in?

 

Oh, and for bellhousings, anything that connects to a Ford 4.6L or 5.4L will also connect to the V10.

Not sure if you're going to find a drive coupler to fit a V10 flywheel, but I guess it could be done by a good machinist by drilling and tapping new holes if necessary.

 

The boat is a 24 foot......... 7,2 meters long and 2,5 meters wide..

 

Tank you for the bellhouse info (krewat) and drive coupler self made i think.....

 

Trying to get the boat on plane with a big prop and low rpm's will be a problem. You need a small prop to get the boat on plane quicker and let the engine rev. Smaller prop means more rpm and bigger prop will get less prm out of a motor. For pushing a load then you can run the bigger prop. Not enough rpm out of a motor will make it lug too much. Kind of like driving a 5 speed in 3rd gear all the time.

 

ok I have to put in my two cents on this one, first about the RPM issue most boats out there with a I/O set up never get over 5000 RPMS lets take a 502 magnum motor (Mercruiser or GM) which is a common motor for alot of the go fast boats out there these days, and per spec. the full throttle operating range is 4600 to 5000 RPM MAX... even more common is the 5.0 or the 5.7 and the range is only 4200 to 4600 RPM so with that being said I don't think that the RPM range will be a problem.. about the prop the bigger the pitch the more hole shot you will get and also will lower your RPM about 200RPM per inch at WOT.. the diameter of the prop is going to be common also which for that motor set up would probably be a 15". I have a 26ft boat that gets up on plane at about 2000 RPM it's all about having the right prop setup.. Now alot has to do with the gearing in the outdrive also but can easily be figured out.. as for the aluminum heads there are alot of boats out there with them just make sure to always flush them and don't leave the boat in the water for long periods of time at the dock cause of electrolytic ( Spell check) and the cooling system doesn't matter as long as you have one.. look on some of the performance sites and you will see alot of aluminum parts for boat motors... ok well I think thats alittle more then 2 cents so I will stop but if you really want to learn about all of the questions that you have go to marineengine.com and go to the Volvo or the Mercruiser discussion board..

 

Here is some interesting reading regarding horsepower in a boat engine.
http://www.perfprotech.com/store/art...orquevshp.aspx


The smaller the pitch the quicker the engine revs and thus quicker to plane. A higher pitched prop will give you more miles per hours. The diameter of a prop is how far it will push the boat through the water if it turns a complete revolution. A 15" diameter prop under perfect conditions should move the boat froward 15" if it turns one full time.