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Removing and brazing is the best idea -- some peeps have brazed an oil pan while still mounted (i confess to being young 'n dumb before), I wouldn't myself now. 5 quarts of oil is cheap compared to engine fires or explosions.
JB Weld or SealAll Gas & Oil by Eclectic might work -- they both worked for me on gas tanks after I drained the fuel.
Steelbrush the steel real well, it has to be scored and clean to hold well. Quote: "On leaking objects, tape over the sealant and additional coats may be applied over tape." I don't know what kind of tape, never did it that way.
I have used die grinder to clean up pan and just used JB weld . Have had last over 8 years on my last engine . But it will start to leak else where so I just put a nice coat on every thing I can reach. good luck
If it's not rusted but just cracked, drill a small hole at end of each crack to stop the crack from traveling. Then clean it down to bright shinny metal. Then solder it using a big 120 watt or so soldering iron.
Brazing is best, but dangerous unless you pull it. Soldering is safe and can be done without removing it. You can also sweat a copper strip over the crack.
Of course drain the oil first.
Last edited by netscaner; Aug 12, 2007 at 10:18 PM.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.