Not getting fuel
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From: Central California
Not getting fuel
Before I made a quick stop into Wal-Mart today, my truck ran fine. When I went to go to my next planned stop, the truck tried to take fuel, but instead bucked, shuddered, and died. It has spark, but is not getting fuel. However, when starting fluid is sprayed into one of the intake hoses, it will start and run for maybe three seconds. This is affecting the rear tank--the front does the same thing, but I haven't tried starting fluid with it. I'm stumped and more than a little pissed. Any ideas? Hope it isn't the fuel pump...
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Redmond, WA
Fuel pressure regulator. Or the vacuum line attached to it. Make sure the line holds vacuum before you look to buy a new one. Its a cheap junkyard part if you have a pick and pull nearby...
Worth a try
Mike
Worth a try
Mike
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From: Central California
Originally Posted by Mr. M
Fuel pressure regulator. Or the vacuum line attached to it. Make sure the line holds vacuum before you look to buy a new one. Its a cheap junkyard part if you have a pick and pull nearby...
Thanks,
Dan
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From: Redmond, WA
Originally Posted by Navy Jet Mech
Mike, if that happens to be the case, then you just made my day! Now, what do I need to look for/at under the hood?
Thanks,
Dan
Thanks,
Dan
Check along the fuel rail... you will find a bronze looking small cylindrical metallic device (kind of looks like a miniature torque converter with input shaft attached! if that helps) with a vacuum line attached to to the top.
If you have a haynes or chilton manual, they will have a snapshot of the FPR. I have to reiterate, before you purchase another one, test the vacuum on the line first. It might be a cheap vacuum line fix!!
I wish I had a picture to post for you... my 300I6 is 200 miles away.
Good luck!
Mike
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by Navy Jet Mech
Before I made a quick stop into Wal-Mart today, my truck ran fine. When I went to go to my next planned stop, the truck tried to take fuel, but instead bucked, shuddered, and died. It has spark, but is not getting fuel. However, when starting fluid is sprayed into one of the intake hoses, it will start and run for maybe three seconds. This is affecting the rear tank--the front does the same thing, but I haven't tried starting fluid with it. I'm stumped and more than a little pissed. Any ideas? Hope it isn't the fuel pump...
Either your Fuel Pump Relay is not closing or there is no power to it or your Inertia Switch has tripped.
Try resetting the Inertia Switch by pushing down on the button on top.
Check to see if the Fuel Pump Relay is closing, it should click as soon as the key is turned on and click again one second later when it opens.
If the Inertia switch is not tripped and the Fuel Pump Relay is closing then you may not have any power on the Yellow wire going to the Fuel Pump Relay, this would mean the fuse link has opened that feeds this Yellow wire at the starter relay.
If the Fuel Pump Relay is not closing ground pin #6 of the VIP (test connector) and see if it will close then, if not change out the Fuel Pump Relay.
All of the above assumes that you do not hear the Fuel Pumps run for one second when you turn the key to the run position.
If you do hear the Fuel Pumps run then the injectors are not firing.
Last edited by subford; Aug 11, 2007 at 03:43 AM.
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
A Fuel Pressure Regulator would not do this.
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From: Central California
Subford, you hit the nail right on the head--the fuel pumps don't whir when I turn the key to the run position. I can't imagine why the inertia switch would have tripped, but I know it's quite possible, so I'll check that first.
But assuming that the switch didn't trip, I have a few questions. Where is the fuel pump relay? And if it doesn't close, where would I find the VIP (test connector)--specifically pin 6--and how would I ground it? The same questions would apply to the fused link you refered to. (If this was ever in doubt, I absolutely hate messing around with any sort of electrical system or component.)
Now a couple questions about the fixes. I read--in the Haynes manual, if I remember right--that one is best off buying the fused link from a Ford dealer. Is this true, and would it also apply to the relay? And how much would these cost?
Thanks, all, for the help!
But assuming that the switch didn't trip, I have a few questions. Where is the fuel pump relay? And if it doesn't close, where would I find the VIP (test connector)--specifically pin 6--and how would I ground it? The same questions would apply to the fused link you refered to. (If this was ever in doubt, I absolutely hate messing around with any sort of electrical system or component.)
Now a couple questions about the fixes. I read--in the Haynes manual, if I remember right--that one is best off buying the fused link from a Ford dealer. Is this true, and would it also apply to the relay? And how much would these cost?
Thanks, all, for the help!
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by Navy Jet Mech
Subford, you hit the nail right on the head--the fuel pumps don't whir when I turn the key to the run position. I can't imagine why the inertia switch would have tripped, but I know it's quite possible, so I'll check that first.
But assuming that the switch didn't trip, I have a few questions. Where is the fuel pump relay?
But assuming that the switch didn't trip, I have a few questions. Where is the fuel pump relay?
Originally Posted by Navy Jet Mech
And if it doesn't close, where would I find the VIP (test connector)--specifically pin 6--and how would I ground it?
VIP Test Connector
Not 100% sure on a 91 but it may be here.
(Called Diagnostic self test plugs in diagram below)
Originally Posted by Navy Jet Mech
The same questions would apply to the fused link you refered to.
Originally Posted by Navy Jet Mech
Now a couple questions about the fixes. I read--in the Haynes manual, if I remember right--that one is best off buying the fused link from a Ford dealer. Is this true, and would it also apply to the relay? And how much would these cost?
The relay could be bough from either but check the wiring under the relay socket before buying one.
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From: Central California
Well, I got the truck fixed today. I went to the inertia switch right away--it didn't appear to have tripped, but I popped the button up and pushed it down anyway. Then I went under the hood and took a look. The data link connector was easy to find, so I looked for the realy. After a few minutes of trying to figure out which was which, I said the hell with it and tried starting the truck. And it started...and kept running.
If only I'd known about the inertia switch on Friday...
Thanks for the help, everyone!
If only I'd known about the inertia switch on Friday...
Thanks for the help, everyone!
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