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CHEAPEST & EASIEST A.C. MOD !!!!

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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 05:05 PM
  #16  
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Didn't for me. Sure decreased the cab temps though and in Houston that's like HEAVEN.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 05:15 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Texas Outlaw
Didn't for me. Sure decreased the cab temps though and in Houston that's like HEAVEN.

That's all i needed to know, thanks!
 
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 05:15 PM
  #18  
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From: Visalia CA
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Here in Seattle it is still only 58 degrees and raining. Snowing on Snoqualmie pass.
It's JUNE!!!!
SHEESH ITS 100 TODAY, YOU ARE HOGGING ALL THE JET STREAM UP THERE....LOW PRESSURE PLEASE COME VISIT US!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 05:18 PM
  #19  
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Thanks thanks thanks reps given
 
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 05:32 PM
  #20  
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"For anyone who may not know which heater hose to install it in, it is the one that carries hot water into the heater core, it will be the one coming from the engine and going toward the firewall, not the one which connects to the water pump."

Ok, a well respected mechanic told me that it doesn't make any difference which hose you place the valve in. Is he wrong? I picked the hose on top and it worked well till I opened it to get a little heat one day. Figured it leaked because it was PVC and didn't like the heat. Have replaced it with a Brass valve and noticed the end goes directly to the top of the water pump. Do I need to change this hose and put the valve in the other one? Too much time on my hands right now, keep finding things I need to do.
Rod
 
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 06:05 PM
  #21  
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Here is the post from last year. There are some pics of the install starting about #9.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ditioning.html
 
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 06:51 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by lappir
"For anyone who may not know which heater hose to install it in, it is the one that carries hot water into the heater core, it will be the one coming from the engine and going toward the firewall, not the one which connects to the water pump."

Ok, a well respected mechanic told me that it doesn't make any difference which hose you place the valve in. Is he wrong? I picked the hose on top and it worked well till I opened it to get a little heat one day. Figured it leaked because it was PVC and didn't like the heat. Have replaced it with a Brass valve and noticed the end goes directly to the top of the water pump. Do I need to change this hose and put the valve in the other one? Too much time on my hands right now, keep finding things I need to do.
Rod
Shouldn't matter, your just stopping the circulation.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 10:01 PM
  #23  
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From: WA Resident
Originally Posted by totin_tools
Tom, you must be on the West side. I am out by Moses Lake and it has gotten alittle hot out here, but really its kind of nice, and dry.
Yup, on the west side. Right down the road from Dan.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 10:07 PM
  #24  
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Does this mod make it so the interior controls for the coldness are not adjustable? The one mod on here said you lose the ability to change the temp it is cold all the time you just have to turn down the fan.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 10:15 PM
  #25  
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By just putting in a manual valve you would need to open it for heat. (After doing, started leaking) The modification using the heater valve will allow you to just turn your temp control for heat.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 11:19 AM
  #26  
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Hi all,

it sounds like a good mod. I'm a class A driver and we have the same "T" valve shut off. in the rig it doesn't make any difference for the A/c.

but when it turns cold out you better turn the "T" the other way. LOL

anyway, if someone does this mod, post some pics.


John M T
 
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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 11:28 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by John M T
Hi all,

anyway, if someone does this mod, post some pics.


John M T
Here they are again.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post3836729



Here is the picture of the valve installed on the truck...remember, makes no difference how you hook it up (vacuum valve facing either way, it will work).



And here is the vacuum t-valve installed behind the glove box. The red vacuum line will give hot water shut-off at ALL settings to the left on the controlled (VENT, AC, or MAX AC):
 
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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 11:30 AM
  #28  
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The problem I am having is all the valves I have seen so far are only rated for 180*. In my hardware ordering book, there are many different valves. but none over 180*. Even the CPVC valves don't go over 180*.

Has anyone else run into this?
 
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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 11:32 AM
  #29  
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Holy Crap!!!!!!!!!

That a Huge *** Rodent!!!!!!!

They sure grow 'em 'uge in them there parts...

LOL


John M T
 
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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 10:55 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by miller_feed
The problem I am having is all the valves I have seen so far are only rated for 180*. In my hardware ordering book, there are many different valves. but none over 180*. Even the CPVC valves don't go over 180*.

Has anyone else run into this?
What I did was use a heater core cut off valve for an older Audi 5000T. It is vacuum operated. They run at 87c all day long which translates into around 190-195, I think, without actually doing the math to convert it. Many of them went to the junkyard, 20 years old with those valves still operating and not leaking.
Part number: 431 819 809A, Heater Valve. Retail cost about $25.00.
I have two installed on my truck, one on the feed side and the other on the return side. Both controlled with a single vacuum solinoid that is controlled with a switch that I installed on the dash.
 
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