If your having it done, I'd say let your painter use what he is accustomed and most comfortable with. All in all, ppg, dupont, basf and other big names are fairly comparable in quality and price within similar level lines. True, its usually recommended to stay with a system throughout undercoats, paint and clear, but most companys primers and clears seem pretty compatable with others basecoats and many will mix products, if not certified by one of the paint companys and offering the lifetime warrenty on certain failures. Most painters are going to use basecoat with a clear urethane or polyurethane over it. Base drys fairly quickly and if you get an imperfection in it, you can repair and go on. The clear provides uv protection to the color, adds a little more depth, and will be about the easiest to repair in the future. A better line of urethane should last very well exposed to the elements with little upkeep and maitenance. And really doesn't need regular waxing. Many concerned with originality think urethane clear looks a little too good compared to single stage enamel which was used on a lot of older vehicles. I'd stay away from lacquer. A buff lacquer job can look very nice, but is at the bottom as far as durability, holding up to all the things a driven vechile faces, and against fading, shrinking and cracking. Also with the high voc, not very environmentally friendly,Also with the high voc, which is why its been outlawed many years now in many areas and also requires quite a few coats applied. Enamel is a step above lacquer, and better if its activated. For the best long lasting finish with little upkeep, I'd use a urethane or polyurethane, along with epoxy primer to seal bodywork and metal areas up, and use activated products. Yeah, things aren't too cheap today, and harder and harder to find someone, at least collision shops, that will take pm any rust repairs, complete paint or an older vehicle. For show quality, your looking at quite a bit of time, and quite a few grand just to prep and paint. Materials are really expensive these days for the better lines from any of the big boys. Me personally, I use to be a ppg fan, but plan on using more Southern Polyurethanes http://southernpolyurethanes.com products on future work I do, at least there universal clear for sure. I used there clear on a car last summer, its as of good of or better quality then the big guys like ppg and dupont, really looked great, buffed the easiest of any clear I've ever used, and its price isn't much more then the lower lines from the big boys. Hear great things about there epoxy primer and other products as well from some painters turning out some pretty nice looking work on some nice vehicles.

 

Bay Area = San Francisco, San Diego, or Santa Monica?

I took my 1968 Galaxie XL in to be repainted (as original-acrylic enamel) two years ago. The fellow that has done all my work since 1966 (in Venice) informed me that CA now only allows Clear Coat 2 stage. I called the Ford dealer I used to work for (in Los Angeles), and spoke with their body shop manager. Same story. No more acrylic enamel/lacquer, nitrocelluose, no regular Duco enamel, no Imron. Friends are hauling their cars to AZ to be painted, so there's gotta be a reason. I'm not familiar with urethane, so I can't say if it's illegal or not. I was told only 2 stage clear coat is allowed.


And that's what went on the car.

 

I'm retired, I'm disabled, so I'm home a lot. It's a known fact that the older you get, the less sleep you need. I still get about 6-7 hours, tho not all at the same time.

 

San Francisco bay area, but the body shop that sprayed it said they bought all their paints from a Los Angeles supplier, so I think both area laws are relevant here. Just look for the paints that have '3.5' at the end of their name...they're all legal in CA. I know the BASF product was 'LIMCO 3 3.5 URETHANE'. I can't remember the exact designation for the Nason, but it was the 3.5 style as well.

 

LA supplier: Prolly Thompson Lacquer Company, or Cal-State Automotive & Paint.

I'll call them in the AM, and post what they tell me on FTE.

(I'll add the phone number and person's name for reference).

Two different individuals gave me the Clear Coat info.

Both are in LA County, so mebbe it's a county thing.

Yes, we have county laws that are different than other places in CA.

For example: When you buy ammunition, you have to sign for it.

Another: All cats and dogs must have microchips.

 

Beginners should read up on paint supplies BEFORE spraying! You need to remember--dirt and bugs are a problem and make ALL precautions to keep area painting in,clean. The faster the drying time,generally the better the outcome with a 1st time paint job. This is why laquers were so great and I have sprayed it 100s of times.Today,it is out classed by base coat clear coats and VERY EASY to learn to spray. Ask any painter that sprayed straight enamel . IMHO -for the 1st time painter---cleanliness and preparation under the paint mean more than the topcoat. You will want a slick smooth outcome --but---a lot of wet sanding and respraying will prevail. Paint is an oil product and thus expensive--I sprayed my 1st water based auto paint and really think they have something there!!!I actually liked it--and I thought it was going to be crap!! My experience is to have a nice clean area to paint--watch the weather--and tack rag and clean---and right reducer for the day. Laquer is still a good choice--but you will think it is ALOT OF WORK!!!! Bill

 

No! Tractor paint is for..... well Tractors...LOL

 

Many say the BC/CC is easier for the beginner to shoot (safety aside) but I had better looking results with single stage urethane and will likely use that if I ever shoot another vehicle. The SS finish more closely resembles older finishes if your going original IMO.

PS: I'm glad I don't live in CA!