I wasnt thinking of it swelling, too young of a truck, I know stuff happens, but still. I like the brake line suggestion though, it does make sense. So does air to me though as well..

 

This might be a long shot... but maybe it could be alignment related....

or a balljoint that is bad, or some other suspension part in bad shape.

 

alignment was in june and in drives great, ball joints all new in april, and all other suspension is but the sway bar links least of my worries right now though. thanks for the input. april and june of this year.

 

just went out and looked over all the brake lines and none of them look damaged and none of them are leaking, the master cylinder is full and i have never had to add any fluid i am stumped

 

I am with you, I don't know what more to think at the moment.

 

I only have 1 more suggestion, and it to doesnt make sense to me, but what does your brake fluid look like? I am still wondering about air in the caliper, especially when you say if you brake twice it works with out pulling.

 

i was thinking in my sleep last night as was wondering how long it take for brake fluid to break down and could it be getting hot enough to boil because when it is cold like the very first brake apply in the morning i dont notice it at all. I am going to flush and bleed the entire brake system today.
I had a pretty bad scare last night had to slam on the brake at about 65 and the lf tire locked up and my truck went completly side ways and i think part of my seat is missing.lol.
If bleeding and flushing doesnt work i am going to throw some pads on it and see what happens. i have never experienced a brake problem i couldnt figure out.
Thanks for stickin with me on this one i really appreciate it.
Billy

 

Billy, when you looked at your brakes a couple of weeks ago, did you by chance have your rotor turned?? I had a guy once turn a "thread" into my rotor, its hard to describe what it felt like, but it pulled with out a question.

As far as sticking with ya, I just wish it did some good

 

it still has the original rotors on it and have never been turned. I think it maybe air like you said but i will see today when i flush and bleed the system. I will keep you posted, and your input was really keepin my brain going and i need it from time to time.
Thanks Billy

 

Had the same problem on my '01. The right front caliper was bad. The pistons were sticking a bit and slower to push on the pad. I went through the same things you're going through... caliper pins, cleaning & lubing everything twice, inspecting the lines. Finally I replaced the right front caliper and all is well for the last 42,000 mi. I pulled the caliper apart, and the pistons were smooth with no pits or anything. There were no internal restrictions either so go figure.


Good luck,

Austin

 

well i just order a caliper from the dealer i got a buddy in parts at the local dealer here and he can get it for 80 dollars i have tried all of the cheap things and i my life is worth more than 80 dollars so i am going to replace that caliper and in the very near future it will be hawk pads and power slot rotors it is time!
Billy

 

I respect your decision, I just dont, for nothing, see it. But at the same time, I would do it to!! Sometimes throwing cash at t does work, I just hate when I have to turn to that. I guess I liken it to throwing my change to the fish gods before i throw in my line...
Like you said " your life is worth more then 80.00"

 

I know exactly how you feel. The way I look at it is time is worth more than a few dollars spent. You can always make more money, but the time you spend is gone forever. You've made every effort to find the problem, so I hope the new caliper will put an end to your brake woes.
Keep us posted on the results after the install.

Austin

 

I figured I'd post this too, in case you weren't aware of the service bulletins from Ford on the issue.


99-03 F-Series, 2000-01 Excursion Brake pull:
There are several problems that may contribute to this condition.
First the vehicle should be driven to deterimine if the pull/drift occurs at all times, or only when braking. If it pulls at all times, the tires, tire pressure, steering, suspension and alignment should be checked. Also check for a dragging/sticking caliper, steering gear control valve leakage, and an imbalance of loaded or added components.
If the pull occurs only when braking, check for contamination of the brake materials. Check the edge code on the pad lining should be checked to see that all four have the same batch number (the numbers preceding the "/" in the code). If the codes do not match, replace the pads, ensuring the code matches on the new pads, and resurface the rotors. If the codes match, swap the pads and rotors side to side. If the pull follows the brake parts, replace the pads and resurface the rotors. If swaping the pads does not reverse the direction of the pull, check caliper for sticking or binding and the hoses for restrictions. Also check the ball joints for binding.
On 4X4 trucks only: If the pull does not occur during light to moderate braking at speeds of 35-40 MPH, but does occur on moderately hard braking at speeds of 55-65, replace the front leaf springs (see TSB for chart). If the build date is between 3-20-99 and 11-25-01, replace the steering gear (2C3Z-3504-AARM) and pitman arm (YC3Z-3590-CA), set the gear mesh load to 5-6 in/lbs and adjust the alignment to specs with a cross caster of -0.5° (right caster 0.5° higher than left). TSB #03-19-10. Also refer to the following:

Brake Pull Right, Then Left, 2002 FSeries/Excursion:
This may be due to a delayed left front brake calper response to application or release. Normal diagnosis and inspection of the calipers, pads and lines should be performed. If no problems are found, replace the left front caliper. Broadcast Message 2220


Good luck,

Austin

 

thanks for the info on the TSB, I really really hope the caliper fixes it but if not i will try crossing the pads and rotors i didnt really think about that. I really appreciate the help. I will keep ya'll posted.
thanks Billy