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5.4 Cold Engine Knock

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Old Sep 19, 2007 | 09:15 AM
  #181  
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Case_hd
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Thanks to all the replys. I did find a number of the TSB`s mentioned, and have know about the cold start noises that go away. To make a long story short, the noise worsened, and about 3 months later, it threw a rod, lol. I love the truck too much to get rid of, so in went a reman engine, 4 months and so far so good.I am only using it to pull a small camper, so am going to use the synthetic 5W-30. Any suggestions on a good brand. It will most likely sit all winter.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2007 | 12:15 PM
  #182  
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My recently purchased 99 has the "slap" in fact it sounds a bit like a diesel on initial start-up, it does go away quickly. I recently had it out for an over 200 mile round trip pulling my 5K (Gross) TT and a bed full of camping items. The truck ran strong the whole way.

I don't think it's a bottom-end issue personally, the shop the dealer used serviced the truck with a WIX oil filter and the engine builds oil pressure quickly.

I am not going to worry about it, I just let it warm up good before I start off with it. I only put about 1500 miles on my truck per year so even with the knock, I am hopeful (and pray) that it lasts a long time.

I will try the Mobil 1 5-30 on my next oil change and perhaps the lucas oil additive as well. My truck has 101,700 miles on it. It had the issue since I bought it a few weeks ago and I was aware of the "slap" issue with these trucks. I am not concerned at this point and I got a good deal on the truck anyway. If it ever needs another engine, I will put one in myself.

Just my observations......
 

Last edited by Gregs69GTO; Sep 19, 2007 at 12:46 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2007 | 11:19 PM
  #183  
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I would not add the Lucas. It thickens the oil which starves the top end on start-up and is hard on the valvetrain. If a 2000 or newer, I would use 5W20 with a Motorcraft filter. If 99 and earlier, then use 5w30.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2007 | 06:57 AM
  #184  
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Gregs69GTO
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Originally Posted by LxMan1
I would not add the Lucas. It thickens the oil which starves the top end on start-up and is hard on the valvetrain. If a 2000 or newer, I would use 5W20 with a Motorcraft filter. If 99 and earlier, then use 5w30.
Thanks LX Man, it's an early 99, built in 8/98 I believe, so I will use the 5w 30.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 08:34 PM
  #185  
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lareb313
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Converters!

Guys,
I would not have believed this had I not seen/heard it with my own eyes/ears.

My 01 F150 with ~128K miles started knocking badly when cold. Knock was most pronounced at 1500rpm or so. Would continue while the truck was cold; sometimes up to 5 minutes - after which it would get better. Sounded just like a diesel. The noise was too loud to be lifters - sounded like a rod or crank bearings. VERY disconcerting. Thought I was destined to have to shell out thousands for a new or rebuilt engine.

Unrelated (...I thought), I started getting P0430 and P0420 codes indicating the catalyst efficiency was below threshold on both L and R converter banks.

So I shelled out the money for eastern cat replacement units on the web. Lots of $$, but much less than Ford or the muffler houses wanted. Put them in over a Saturday (...what fun - NOT! Lots of creeper time).

Started the truck to check the cats and... the noise was gone completely. Tried it again the next day when completely cold - nothing. Tried after letting it sit a week - no noise.

My theory is that the original Ford cat elements must have cracked and would rattle around inside the case until they got hot and expanded.

I'm sure this is not the cause of all - or even most - of the problems on this forum, but don't rule the catalytic converters out. They can make a heck of a racket if they're bad.

Good Luck!
 
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 11:35 PM
  #186  
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I'm sure that could happen but the noise mine is still making on start up is the lower end. It's been doing it since 150K and now has 350 K so it must not be a big deal.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 01:49 PM
  #187  
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My 02 5.4 has 130,000 miles and is solid as a rock! No knocks of any kind (I'm knocking on a piece of wood as I write this). I have used the recommended 5w20 oil and changed it every 3 to 4 thousand miles throughout. I plan to get 300,000 miles out of mine. (the best laid plans of mice and men). Hope your new 5.4 does as well as mine has. GOOD LUCK!
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 07:44 PM
  #188  
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From: parker colorado
WOW! A ton of replies on here for this. I dont have 2 weeks to read all of them but need to suggest this also. I was working as a Ford Technician in the Days of the late 90s when F series and Expeditions came in with cold knock situations. Has anyone even mentioned the possibility of the timing chain tensioners being the culprit? All of the ones I Repaired From SOHC 4.0s to 5.4l was a Tensioner. It has been over 8 years since I have even picked up a shop manual but I seem to remember a TSB for this symptom. ad From what I can remember, there were a Few piston slap situations but it was always when driving on the freeway on a moderate acceleration and the majority of those were in V10s

just another suggestion because I hate to see a engine get replaced if its not needed
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 09:30 PM
  #189  
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If ti sounds like a diesel for a minute on start-up, it's piston slap.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 09:33 PM
  #190  
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From: parker colorado
thats the same with timing chain tensioners, and it goes away after its warm
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 08:53 AM
  #191  
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topless64-455
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Its still knocking

I have owned my truck since new. I had the head gasket replaced at 11k and 49k. I also complained about the cold engine knock and was told to pound sand. The truck had good power but after they replaced the head gasket the second time its has been down on power. I have changed the oil every 4k with Mobil 1 5w 30 after the first to oil changes since I heard you want the rings to seat with regular oil. The truck has 146k miles on it and it sound like a diesil all the time. The last oil change I added Lucus and it did quiet it down some. I too have the engine sound like ping ping when driving but it goes away using higher octane.

I have always had an issue with the power loss after the head gasket replacement. I asked if the time chain could have been installed off a degree or so affecting my engine power. I was told no that cant happen.

I just was wondering???


Thanks for any information.
 
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