I am having a problem getting the factory tow plug fixed correctly. The 4-way plug all of a sudden would not put out the RH turn. My local indy mechanic traced the factory tow harness to the underside of the dash and gave up. He "hot wired" the green wire so that I'd have RH turn signal. However, now the stop light function is not working.

I have just read that there is a tow relay in the relay box (98 Ranger supercab here). Also that there may be fuses on those relays in the box? The mech said he checked fuses -but maybe just in the kickpanel?

Any recommendations on what to tell the guy to get this fixed properly? I'd like to help him get it fixed right, as I get charged by the hour.

Thanks for any help on this.

RL

 

If you have the owners manual look up "Fuses" and find the location of all fuse boxes. If there is one in the engine comp. it should be a black plastic cover marked power distribution or something to that effect.

To test fuses. If you have a dist. box under the hood and it's not marked with what each fuse does, you'll need a 12v test light, easiest, to do this. With engine off. Energize the circuit that is not working, ie. hold the brake pedal w/ a stick or something or turn on blinker. Take the test light and put the clamp on the Neg battery terminal or a good ground. Take the tip of the test light and contact the exposed metal on each side of each fuse on top. The test light should light up when you make contact with each side of one fuse. Some fuses will not light up the test light at all on both sides, those are usually only energized w/ engine running. If you find a fuse w/ one side that lights and the other doesn't, it's blown and you've found you culprit. Same goes for in-cab fuse boxes, except find a good ground for the test light. This method is alot quicker and better then pulling each fuse and looking at it.

As for the relays, if you find them, swap one from a circuit that works with one that doesn't. Relays are stamped w/ their part numbers and ratings on top and are interchangeable if they are marked the same. If you find a bad relay, buy a new one.

 

Thanks very much

 

This is because you have seperate circuits/bulbs for the turn and brakes. Make sure this gets un-done.
Also, are you sure it's a factory tow plug and not an aftermarket "T-Connector"?

 

> He "hot wired" the green wire so that I'd have RH turn signal. However,
> now the stop light function is not working.

I won't bother explaining how a 1157/3057 bulb works with the turn signal switch and flashers for your "mechanic". Just have him UNBUTCHER what he has done and return it to stock.

Then replace both bulbs on the non-working side, front and rear.

When doing these jobs, I replace all the bulbs front and rear. $12 worth of bulbs saves a lot of trouble shooting or running around a problem the wrong way.

On almost all Fords, you can test the in/out for brake lamps, turn signal, reverse, etc. under the hood on the driver's firewall either by disconnecting the connectors or sticking a testlamp into the back of the socket/connector.

The first step is determining if the voltage is exiting the steering column connector when the lamp is suppose to be on.

If not, the next step is to replace the flashers!

Then check the fuses and relays.

 

I probably did not explain clearly. Sorry. The truck's lights work just fine and normally. The problem is that the trailer now only has turns and running lights and stop light function on only one side (LH).

Yes I will incourage him to undo the tap to the rh turn.

Also-this a a pig tail 4-way truck end trailer connector that plugs into the factory harness adaptor right under the spare tire carrier area.

I will report back on what transpires. Thanks for all the posts.

Rich

 

Update:truck is fixed and wiring harness returned back to factory configs. It was a broken wire up under the dash.

RL

 

Glad to hear it was a cheap fix and all is good :-)