Hi, I'm in need of info from anyone that has done or been involved in the planing for a 4R70W in a 03 Supercrew F-150 with a Lightning motor in it to be swapped out for a 4R100 tranny.
I can't seam to keep the 4r70w under the truck for more then 6 months. And Iv spent all I'm going to trying.
So please help. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

 

Are you using a torque converter with a 10.5 inch disk? If not, you're going to continue to go through trannies.

 

How would you know if you have a 10.5 " disk? and why would that cause the tranny to burn up?

 

You won't have one if its stock or a "stock rebuild". If your running a supercharger and you are hard on the throttle you need a 10.5 torque converter and good clutches -- otherwise you're going to overheat it and burn it up.

If you're not running a supercharger, the conversation about 10.5 doesn't apply.

 

I have a PI tripel plate lock up converter.2600 stall.
My tranny has more parts in it then the Monster-Box tranny that FT Selle's.
Has all the good clutches/harden-input shaft/custom welded gears. Every part you could imagine and everything available out there for sale! It last about 6 months each time and this in the 3rd time.
I'm making to much HP and my truck is way to heavy for the little 4r70w.
I have a temp gauge and it never over heats.

 

2600... is one of the reasons why my tranny is on a pallet right now on its way to Level 10 in New Jersey. I don't want a truck that requires high rpms to get moving! Great on the track but it makes for poor street driveability. You say this tranny is in great shape but your first post in this thread says you can't keep trannies under the truck. Doesn't sound like a tranny I'd want to buy!

See the guidelines concerning sales in the forums. Classifieds only.

 

I cant even tell it has a 2600 stall on the street!

 

Maybe you can't but I can (doesn't matter what your wide open throttle power is, part throttle is where a high stall is not a good thing). High stall, while good for heavy throttle, ruins driveability at part and light throttle and decreases fuel economy. Put it in 2nd gear on a steep incline. Take your foot off the brake. With a 2600 stall it will roll back while idling. Watch what the RPMs do with the TQ lock-up at light throttle, especially on uphill slopes. 2600 is going to be very noticiable with part-throttle driving if you know what to look for. At light throttle you'll also see a big jump in RPMs whenever the TQ unlocks.

 

Did you ever run a 2600 stall on the street?
I'm telling you I can't hardly tell it's in there. 2600 is very streetable. Now if your talking 35 or 4500 that might be a little much for the street.
My gas mileage sucks but with 600 HP I didn't think it would go by many gas stations,,,,lol. Its not my daily driver.It's my weekend cruiser.
Oh and I'm getting 5 Miles to the gallon.

 

Yes, I have. That's why I said my tranny is now on a pallet being shipped out. One of the things being swapped out is the torque converter. Is that 600 RWHP, or crank? You have dyno results? I'm not at that number yet, but we're working on it! After the current tranny upgrade I'm going for a full exhaust (long tubes, high flow cats, etc.) to complement the Roushcharger already in there. What's the air volume on the KB charger? Just curious. Had an employee running one on a Cobra and it was nasty fast but the car was light. You can still get decent mileage with a lot of horsepower if you tune it right, use a good tranny with a tune made for it and you blow off boost while cruising.... if you can stay out of the throttle (I can't). What fun is horsepower if you don't use it.

 

I'd say 600 + RWHP! Last time on the dyno was 533. then I added the good T/C,long tube headers and the 100 shot of nitrous. Have not been back to the dyno yet. But it's should be over 600 RWHP.
"What's the air volume on the KB charger? "
Sorry but I'm not sure how to answer that question.
I'm sure I could get better mileage on the highway and if I didn't get on it ALL the time,,,lol But like you said. I didn't build it to save gas by going easy on it!

Oh and here's my last dyno run.
533.31 RWHP without the nitrous!

 

Oh and I case anybody else is looking to do this swap.This is the info I'm getting from a guy on the Harley site that has done the swap.But any other info would be greatly appreciated!


"Hey No problem man! I'll help as much as i can and for whatever I forget lol, just hit up Madferraristi, the SV Madenterprise here. He did the 4R70W to 4R100 swap as well, probably one of the 1st to do it, and he's a great source to pickup the misc parts you'll need.

aight here's a rough list.
-new tranny cross member
-new tranny harness
-new midpipes or extend your old ones (this is if you dont have a L exhaust already, the N/A midpipes crossover sooner & the 4R100 is longer)
-new shorter driveshaft (i went with a PST CF unit)
-new tranny lines for feed & return (you may be able to reuse one of those lines, but i blew my 4R100 so didnt want to contaminate anything with dirty lines)
-new flex plate (4R70W is a 4 bold to the converter & 4R100 is a 6 bolt to converter IIRC)
-new computer (maybe can get away with a t une)< B R>
I'm using a 02 HD computer. Was easier to tune since the stock tables for the 4R100 is already in it, and the baseline tune for the s/c motor and all thats already in there, rather than using a N/A computer and having everything altered for the tranny & motor. Also the s/c computer can use all the sensors on the s/c setup (IAT1 & IAT2, etc) that the N/A computer doesnt even have pins to read.

any more questions feel free to hit me up!"

 

Okay. Cool. I don't count nitrous as part of street HP numbers because you don't run it constantly. Its good for quoting for the track and 1/4 times though. I'd guess you probably picked up about 20-30 RWHP with the exhaust system (that's about average on a blown truck). The TQ shouldn't change the horsepower numbers, but it will make a difference on the torque graph (and depending on the dyno's shock characteristics, where you see the dyno start the graph).

Do you have the A/F ratio graphs to go with those dyno pulls? That's the most important thing. I always get them.

The reason I asked about volume is its related to boost. Total air=air mass per volume X volume. For instance, 18lbs compression air in a 1 cubic foot container is the same as 9 lbs compression in twice the space. I'm just trying to figure out how much air that 18 lbs translates too.

Sounds like a fun ride.

 

Ken, not sure if your truck does it but mine used to flash the converter during WOT shift transitions. I had a few other issues with the converter lock up schedules and made some program changes to remedy those problems.

The bottom part of that dyno sheet looks like the A/F ratio graph.

 

??? What "sale" was that referring to? I got lost....