Trouble code 14 ideas
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Redmond, WA
Trouble code 14 ideas
This is for an 89 F150 I6 300. New cap, rotor, plugs, wires.
I was told to replace distributor and TFI.
We've purchased a distributor with TFI module. The truck will not start on the new TFI module, but will start on both distributors and the old TFI. Ive considered that the new TFI may not be functional, but I am open to suggestions.
Been trying to remedy this code for a week now. Its not reliable to drive with this code rearing its head. Runs great for a while then dies and stays dead.
Anybody dealt with this code previously? I could use some help...
Thanks,
Mike
I was told to replace distributor and TFI.
We've purchased a distributor with TFI module. The truck will not start on the new TFI module, but will start on both distributors and the old TFI. Ive considered that the new TFI may not be functional, but I am open to suggestions.
Been trying to remedy this code for a week now. Its not reliable to drive with this code rearing its head. Runs great for a while then dies and stays dead.
Anybody dealt with this code previously? I could use some help...
Thanks,
Mike
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
Code 14 indicates two successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall.
Possible causes:
Loose wires/connectors.
Arcing secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.).
On-board transmitter (2-way radio).*
Possible causes:
Loose wires/connectors.
Arcing secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.).
On-board transmitter (2-way radio).*
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 843
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From: Redmond, WA
Thanks for your prompt Response Bill..
We've tried two different caps, rotors, distributors and coils from miscellaneous parts laying around.
There is no two way radio...
Any suspicions on where to look for loose wires Bill?
My father and I are at wits ends with this... The truck has plenty of life left. Full compression in all cylinders at 200,000+ miles.
Any ideas, suspicions, pictures, shots in the dark are welcome!
Thanks again
We've tried two different caps, rotors, distributors and coils from miscellaneous parts laying around.
There is no two way radio...
Any suspicions on where to look for loose wires Bill?
My father and I are at wits ends with this... The truck has plenty of life left. Full compression in all cylinders at 200,000+ miles.
Any ideas, suspicions, pictures, shots in the dark are welcome!
Thanks again
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
You can try popping the hood at night where it is very dark and run the engine.
See if you can see any arcing in the plug wires.
They may have to be rerouted or the plug gaps reduced.
Unplug the TFI (ICM) and the EEC (PCM) Computer after unhooking the battery.
Check the PIP wire with an ohmmeter while wiggling the wiring harness and see if you get an open.
Do the same with the SPOUT and Ground wires.
Plug the Computer back in.
Turn on the key.
Check the power wire at the TFI plug and the Ignition Coil while wiggling.
Check the Coil wire from the TFI plug to the Coil while wiggling.
When ohming wires check for a complete circuit through the wire, to ground and to the other TFI plug wires while wiggling.
You should have the Push-Start Ignition system, system "A", here are the diagrams.
See if you can see any arcing in the plug wires.
They may have to be rerouted or the plug gaps reduced.
Unplug the TFI (ICM) and the EEC (PCM) Computer after unhooking the battery.
Check the PIP wire with an ohmmeter while wiggling the wiring harness and see if you get an open.
Do the same with the SPOUT and Ground wires.
Plug the Computer back in.
Turn on the key.
Check the power wire at the TFI plug and the Ignition Coil while wiggling.
Check the Coil wire from the TFI plug to the Coil while wiggling.
When ohming wires check for a complete circuit through the wire, to ground and to the other TFI plug wires while wiggling.
You should have the Push-Start Ignition system, system "A", here are the diagrams.
Last edited by subford; Aug 5, 2007 at 06:52 AM.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Redmond, WA
Hey Bill-
Still having issues with this old beast.... Truck still won't run. The TFI wire tests came out ok. Also, tested to PCM pins from TFI checked out as well.
one thing to note. When attempting to start, you can hear distinct clicking that coincides with jumps in rpm.
Keep in mind the truck is not running!! Yet the rpms will click up to 700 or 1000 and drop back down. Sounds like a short somewhere...its driving us nuts. Truck has 150+ psi in all cylinders at 200,000+ miles.
Thanks,
Mike
Still having issues with this old beast.... Truck still won't run. The TFI wire tests came out ok. Also, tested to PCM pins from TFI checked out as well.
one thing to note. When attempting to start, you can hear distinct clicking that coincides with jumps in rpm.
Keep in mind the truck is not running!! Yet the rpms will click up to 700 or 1000 and drop back down. Sounds like a short somewhere...its driving us nuts. Truck has 150+ psi in all cylinders at 200,000+ miles.
Thanks,
Mike
Last edited by Mr. M; Sep 8, 2007 at 02:58 PM.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
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From: Redmond, WA
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Posting Guru
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From: The dark carnival
Well, I have one and it works wonders for code 14 and anything else ignition related. Maybe you ought to look into getting one.
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 843
Likes: 1
From: Redmond, WA
Sounds like an expensive doo-hickey! 
Although it might be useful....
I'm hoping subford might chime in with his infinite wisdom. Truck won't run now.... used to run before with a code 14 and die intermittently. Swapped dizzy, tfi, eec relay... won't start anymore except on the old dizzy. Have picked up 3 different rebuilt dizzys....
Checked tfi plugs and corresponding wires... all ok.
At a loss....motor was pulling hard and all of a code 14 failures.
Although it might be useful....I'm hoping subford might chime in with his infinite wisdom. Truck won't run now.... used to run before with a code 14 and die intermittently. Swapped dizzy, tfi, eec relay... won't start anymore except on the old dizzy. Have picked up 3 different rebuilt dizzys....
Checked tfi plugs and corresponding wires... all ok.
At a loss....motor was pulling hard and all of a code 14 failures.
Last edited by Mr. M; Sep 8, 2007 at 07:44 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 491
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From: Boyd,TX
That problem of yours is a real head scratcher. runs on the old dis. but not on three different rebuilt units. I saw a post a while back about the connector on the coil causing intermitant problems, something about doing a wiggle test. Hope this helps!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
I take it you have good spark with all three distributors with a spark tester.
And you have good fuel pressure at the fuel manifold with a gauge.
You need to listen to the injectors (or use a node light) to see if they are clicking or getting grounded.
With a 14 the computer may not be firing the injectors. This could be anywhere along the PIP wire from the ICM (TFI) module to the EEC computer. Take a look at the diagram I posted above, it could be the pins in any plug along the way or the wire itself.
If you do not have spark try pulling out the SPOUT shorting bar and see if you have spark then.
Does a test light flash on the tach side of the coil while cranking?
Are you using the same TFI module with each distributor that you are trying?
If you do not have the 42-45 PSI fuel pressure at the fuel manifold with the engine not running and pin #2 shorted to pin #6 of the test connector with the key on then we need to start all over with the problem solving.
And you have good fuel pressure at the fuel manifold with a gauge.
You need to listen to the injectors (or use a node light) to see if they are clicking or getting grounded.
With a 14 the computer may not be firing the injectors. This could be anywhere along the PIP wire from the ICM (TFI) module to the EEC computer. Take a look at the diagram I posted above, it could be the pins in any plug along the way or the wire itself.
If you do not have spark try pulling out the SPOUT shorting bar and see if you have spark then.
Does a test light flash on the tach side of the coil while cranking?
Are you using the same TFI module with each distributor that you are trying?
If you do not have the 42-45 PSI fuel pressure at the fuel manifold with the engine not running and pin #2 shorted to pin #6 of the test connector with the key on then we need to start all over with the problem solving.
