So the first time I did the 10K I saw oil in the plug so I bought a new one. I just swapped it out last night, reinstalled the 10K and the truck is noticeably weaker. The old sensor was way different from the new one. I had to use a 16mm crow foot to get the old ont out, and the new one went in with a 1-1/16" deep socket. Any ideas? Oh yeah, I also lost the rubber boot that goes on the plug........anyone know where I can get a new one?

Thanks!

 

I think that there's a couple different ICP's. Did you get the right one?

 

Gosh I hope so, the e-bay store said it was the right one. I'll call the Ford house when I get home and verify the part number. That would suck! Ford quoted me $170.00 and I paid $36.00 on e-bay with shipping.

 

I verified with the stealer that it was the right one. Any thoughts? Anyone?

 

I broke the top off my ICP sensor doing some other work. Ordered one like you off ebay, was different than the stock one. Can't tell any difference in the running of the truck.

 

Well, I'm stumped then. Verified the part no with Ford, as unhappy as the parts guy was he even described the same "looking" sensor I got of ebay. I'll make up a new resistor today and see what happens. Crappy solder joints?

 

Sorry guys, need to re-visit this one. Same issues, new ICP and now it feels like the 10K was never there. Fuel economy dropped by a half mpg according to the confuser also. I've also recently noticed a "jingling" sound on takeoff, almost like a couple of loose washers vibrating. Only on takeoff, no jingle on bumps, doesn't always do it. Thanks for any ideas.

 

i have the same thing going on , any help???????

 

I broke down and bought another from Ford thinking the e-bay sensor was bad. The Ford sensor makes it run better, but not nearly how it did with the old ICPS. Idle is rougher than before, bottom end just plain crawls, but it seems to shift healthier, not better (hard to explain).

Is it possible......my old sensor was so shot that the ECM was using default maps? How would the truck drive w/ 10K and default maps? It seriously was at least 20% quicker. Seems like I turn more revs to sustain 80mph empty that I used to. Maybe 300rpm higher????

Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

The new ICP sensors look different. It's the right one.

You have to understand how the ICP works to understand the answer to your question.

The PCM sends a 5 volt reference signal to the ICP, which returns a variable reference back from 0-5 depending on what pressure the rail is at. The pcm then adjusts the IPR duty cycle to force the HPOP to hit the pcm program's requesting pressure. A 10k mod fools the returning signal to be lower than it is, so that the pcm increases duty cycle of the HPOP.

When you have an ICP sensor that is bad or out of range, the computer will run on it's own set of default perameters.... even if you have the 10k mod on it. Remember, it's ignoring that reference signal.

Now, when you are at WOT or 100% throttle, the pcm commands max pressure from the HPOP. The pump can only build what it can mechanically build based on oil demands of the injectors and the efficiency and soundness of the pump itself. This is why ICP boxes can add throttle response, but generally do not add much or any "peak" hp because you can't get more oil than 100%. If we could electronically controll the pump indefinately, there would be no need for larger pumps, etc. We'd just put bigger resistors on the ICP.

Whether you get 2200 psi or 2900psi can depend on several factors. You can ask for 2900 in a program or by fooling the pcm with an ICP box (10k mod), but if the pump can't deliver more than say 2200, it will simply ignore your 10k mod and run on it's own default settings.

The best example of this is if you add a 10k mod to say most of the custom chip tuner's programs, it will simply set a SES for oil pressure that cannot be reached and hp will actually be less due to the default settings that computer immediately impliments.


The rough idle is indicative of a "working" 10k mod, unless you've added in the curcuit a way to disable the resistor at idle. Most of the commercial boxes (ICP boxes) do this.


Are you getting an SES light? Where you getting one before with the old sensor? Have you checked HPOP pressure at WOT?

I'll check back if you have more questions.

Bob

 

i dont know my truck was just odd , i had a 4.7k mod in mine and when i hit the swicth the truck idle like a cam in and it would boost 23psi , truck was much faster and with the old sensor it was boost'n 15-16psi with no mod , now with the new sensor the 4.7mod dont work at all!!!, i hit the swicth and truck dont change at all and its only 12-13psi no matter what so the truck is much slower, i cant be the only person that that icp sensor went bad that had the cheapo mod, if i cant get this to work im going to order a real programer next week!

 

Check your wastegate valve. Or turbo bearings.

 

will the 10k mod work with a dp-tuner? or will the tune kick up the press all on it's own?

 

I bought an ICP sensor off ebay that was junk. It came in the Ford plastic bag, and was the right part number. When I put my old one back in, it was fixed.

Dont run an ICP mod with any quality chip, it will only make performace worse.

 

no one know??