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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Removing air pump

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Old Aug 9, 2007 | 09:35 PM
  #16  
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Be ready to plug a few vac lines for sure.Now that I think about it, I ended up just replacing the vacuum block on intake with a single nipple. Just to clean up things a little.I need to update my gallery to show what I have done and choose not to do.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2007 | 10:25 PM
  #17  
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hey Walkpast, when you took out all the smog stuff, were did you re-route the line from the PCV valve?
 
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Old Aug 9, 2007 | 11:16 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by fairfield86f150
i also have a 86 carbed 351 and would like to remove all the smog related hoses from under the hood, but keep the EGR. i live in ontario, canada and we don't have smog tests here.
so how do i go about starting to remove the smog pump and all the vacuum hoses???
I've also got a 86 with a carbed 351, mine has zero emissons junk on it. I simply unbolted the smog pump, removed it from the vehicle and threw it accross the yard. I also ditched both cats, installed long tube headers and true duals with glasspacks.

Since I had the carb removed for a rebuild I pulled the egr plate off the manifold, I blocked off its vacuum lines, and used a piece of mountain dew can to cover the egr hole in the intake manifold. I have two vacuum lines left on the motor one for the brake booster, the other for the vacuum advance.

When i bought the truck it was 19 years old with 130,000 miles, never had a tune up and barly ran. She runs like hell know, just tap the gas and shes spinning the tires. She has plenty of grunt that I can putter around on the primaries only just fine, I have my carb setup so I really have to hammer it for the secondaries to open. As a plus I went from 8 mpg to 14.5, this is with a 351, a C6, and 3.73 gears.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 09:04 AM
  #19  
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Try to keep the pcv valve. It keeps the engine oil cleaner which makes the engine last longer. You should be able to keep it plugged in where it originally went. On my 2bbl motorcraft it was on the front driver's side of the carb with a 3/8 hose. If you had any tees or branch lines, just get rid of them and run a new 3/8 hose from the valve to the carb.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 09:11 PM
  #20  
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MY air filter had a nipple and baffle built in to hook to the pvc line. It still gets a little vac that way but keeps any oil blowby out of the carb. I think the one if the baffle is just ten bucks more, worth the money. Just take it off to clean the screen every now and then.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 09:17 PM
  #21  
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I used to live in Tennessee and they did not have inspection, course that was about 5 yeras ago. I took the smog stuff off my '84 302, put some headers on it. Too tell you the truth I did not really notice an increase in gas mileage. runs good though.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 12:17 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by walkpast
MY air filter had a nipple and baffle built in to hook to the pvc line. It still gets a little vac that way but keeps any oil blowby out of the carb. I think the one if the baffle is just ten bucks more, worth the money. Just take it off to clean the screen every now and then.
That was the fresh air intake for the PCV system, not the PCV line. The PCV line goes to a vacuum source, and sucks the bad stuff out of the engine. The line from the air cleaner lets fresh air into the one valve cover, while the PCV line is sucking the bad fumes out on the other valve cover.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 07:56 AM
  #23  
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Air pump and related hose's gone. Placed cap on metal air pump line that runs into rear of clyinder heads.any vac hose's that were going to air pump and to air cleaner cut off and capped off.For now kept EGR system working.I can not really tell if truck runs any better or not. Big change as far as power happened when cats removed and free flow muffler and 23/4 OD exhaust(single pipe) installed.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 08:47 AM
  #24  
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Then engines does not "breathe through all those restricted hoses". The AIR PUMP does. Not the ENGINE. There is NO reason to remove the smog equipment. Even on an '84 it's computer controlled, the computer controls the timing and fuel mixture. I'm willing to bet that those that noticed a gain in performance did some other upgrade as well at the same time. Whether it was just a good tune up, or the used an MSD box and coil, or even a K&N air filter. The AIR pump is not a power zapper, the pump requires LESS THAN ONE horsepower to operate. It's nothing more than a vane type fan in a sealed housing. It doesn't compress the air or anything, it just blows it around through the pipes. The only WAY I'd ever advocate removing it, is if the pump has seized and the rest of the system is leaking. If it's working leave it there.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 11:44 AM
  #25  
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You may find in the winter, when you get one of those miserable damp cold days, the truck will run rough like it's flooding out a few minutes after you start it, and do this pretty much for the next 30 minutes of driving. What this will be is ice building up in the carb. If your truck has a heat riser valve in the exhaust pipe, you may not have this problem unless you disconnected it too. To cure it, you need to hook the lines back up to the aircleaner so it will draw warm air from the exhaust manifold.

I just looked at your profile, and see you live in Florida, so you probably won't have this problem. But anyone else living where it gets cold should keep this in mind.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 12:14 PM
  #26  
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Don't mean to be argumentative but with my setup the fresh air intake is a cap with filter on the left side valve cover.The baffle is built onto but independent of the filter it has a short line running to the lower back of the carb.The line is a small line compared to the pvc line .So I'm just assuming there less vac.Sorry for any confusion.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 01:18 PM
  #27  
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I also kept the heat rizer hooked up which seems to be piped under carb on passenger side of truck.In Jan,Feb. we do get some chilley AMs here.I still need to spend a little time playing with engine new plugs,cap,rotor and maybe plug wires to.I do not think it could be made to run much better then it is.
 
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