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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 06:18 PM
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Synthetic Oil

I am installing a new (rebuilt) 390 in my truck next week....and I was going to go with a synthetic Engine Oil for this engine....perhaps the 10w40 Castrol Syntech.

Is this the proper weight in a synthetic for this engine? Should I use the synthetic oil in the break in period also?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 07:32 PM
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Break-in w/ synthetic is a no no. Use diesel rated for break in and go to synthetic later.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 73F100*8Mile
Break-in w/ synthetic is a no no. Use diesel rated for break in and go to synthetic later.
3.

Another oil myth continues. Engines break in just fine with synthetic oils. Hell, the high end cars come from the factory with synthetic in them and they don't have break in problems. The only reason the standard American cars come with dino oil is that it is cheap and that's the only reason.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 10:34 PM
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Well i know dino oil works and have heard myths and theres no reason to risk. Thats all. It is my fault for spreading false truth if indeed it is ok to break in w/ synthetic. Maybe one day some guy will have me build 'em a motor and insist on me using synthetic to break it in so it will be his money.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 73F100*8Mile
Well i know dino oil works and have heard myths and theres no reason to risk. Thats all. It is my fault for spreading false truth if indeed it is ok to break in w/ synthetic. Maybe one day some guy will have me build 'em a motor and insist on me using synthetic to break it in so it will be his money.
Synthetics were designed for jet engines. Do you mean to tell me that they never break in?
 
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 04:48 AM
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Break it in with a good dino oil and add a can of GM's EOS. The EOS now carrys a AC Delco part number of 10-106. Jets or no jets.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 06:03 AM
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DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC FOR BREAK IN.

I managed Speed-Pro for 12 years - and have heard plenty of trouble stories from some damn fine shops that tried synthetic from the beginning. Way more risk with zero reward. Just use a normal detergent oil for the first few miles. The motor will be fully broken in after a couple hundred miles at the most - it takes only a few dyno pulls or a dozen hard throttle loads. Then you can change.

This ain't no internet rumor....
 
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 08:30 AM
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I heard over on the VW forums at theSamba.com that EOS was discontinued. Or perhaps that was only in California?
 
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 10:10 AM
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Both Comp and Crane make a cam break-in additive if EOS is no longer available.

FWIW the stuff I read on Comp's website says never use synthetic oil with a flat tappet cam IIRC.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Bear 45/70
Synthetics were designed for jet engines. Do you mean to tell me that they never break in?
I don't think I remember sayin that...let me scroll back up. Nope. Basically I said I'm not sure and I wouldn't wanna risk it. Especiialy with things said from guys like Barry R who know alot more than I and have a few more grey hairs (experience) than I. Besides, why pay more for something if you're unsure of its results. Just break in w/ some Rotella and be confident. Also like someone else said, use the Crane break in lube. I used it and my engine's nice-n-slippery.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 12:18 PM
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The short version of the answer is that most dino oils and synthetics have recently reduced levels of zinc, in response to airborne pollutants. Less zinc, less pollutants. However, zinc is a wonderfull anti-wear ingredient, and it's highly advised to break in flat tappet cams with a diesel duty rated oil to minimize risk of wiping cam lobes and lifter bases during an engines' break in period. Diesel duty oils, like Rotella, for example, have more anti-wear compounds.

Here's a post by a FTE member with a link to an article about cam break in and oils:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...n-article.html
 
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 05:11 PM
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I just finished doing the run in on a rebuilt 390 on Tuesday. The guy who rebuilt it said that a bulletin from the nation's organization of engine rebuilders says to use DELO or Rotella T and either the COMP or Crane additive. He also recommends using the Chevron DELO or Shell Rotella T for at least the first 2000 miles, even 10k. He also requires oil changes at 200, 1000, and 2000 miles after installing the engine. After having one cam go out on this rebuild, I am taking every damn precaution I can to make sure this engine lasts longer.

Anyway, good luck with your new engine. I am glad to see another bumpside Highboy being restored and used.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Unimog005
I heard over on the VW forums at theSamba.com that EOS was discontinued. Or perhaps that was only in California?
It's sold now under the AC Delco label part # 10-106.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by fastmover
I just finished doing the run in on a rebuilt 390 on Tuesday. The guy who rebuilt it said that a bulletin from the nation's organization of engine rebuilders says to use DELO or Rotella T and either the COMP or Crane additive. He also recommends using the Chevron DELO or Shell Rotella T for at least the first 2000 miles, even 10k. He also requires oil changes at 200, 1000, and 2000 miles after installing the engine. After having one cam go out on this rebuild, I am taking every damn precaution I can to make sure this engine lasts longer.

Anyway, good luck with your new engine. I am glad to see another bumpside Highboy being restored and used.
Should I wait until after the first 10k miles before taking the truck on the road for any length of time?
 
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 07:25 PM
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??? heck no run that baby! I'd be easy on the motor for the first 3,000-5,000 or so. No hefty hauling or pullin up trees but after that its all good...IMO
 
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