Noisy Cruise
Any ideas?
So check out the servo's cable linkage to the throttle body throttle plate linkage.
The cruise control is electrocnically controlled after 95 models, so check the systems grounds & electrical connectors, for looseness or corrosion to pins & sockets.
Are you having any problems with other things, like a jittery spee-o, or the ABS system, or it's warning lights????
If so, suspect the rear differential ABS speed sensor, as those systems & the cruise control also uses it's out put.
The cruise control, to operate the speed control system & tell it how much to move the throttle, based on what the speed sensor is telling it.
Also if your having idle problems, the IAC may be figuring in on this too.
Let us know what you find.
Last edited by pawpaw; Aug 2, 2007 at 05:07 PM. Reason: spelling corrections
-Is the noise a sort of 'buzzing' or rattling noise?
-Does is also start to make the noise with cruise on going up a slight hill before the truck downshifts??
-If so, what is happening (my theory) is there is slack in the cable and what you are hearing is the cable vibrating around making contact. The noise goes away when you put weight on the cable (i.e. your foot) because this tightens the cable. (Similar to a guitar string, the wave frequency matchs the simple harmonics frequency of the string and starts a wave of a certain amplitude). This is caused by the torsional vibrations that the motor makes under light loading.
When the amplitude of the cable is large enough, the cable will make contact with it's housing and cause the spring safety on the actual pedal to vibrate leading to a buzzing or light rattling noise; or at least in my case it did... Hope this explanation helps.... (this is my theory why it occurs) I could be completely off base...
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-Ford recommended using wheel weights and crimping them onto the housing, but this left scars on the cable which concerned me. They also liberally applied silicone to the safety spring on the pedal assembly. The problem was still there... They also replaced the throttle cable...no luck there either....
*DISCLAIMER: You will be working around the motor with the engine throttle cable. If you have any slight reservations, DO NOT ATTEMPT. FTE is NOT responsible for any damages that may occur during this procedure, nor am I. Please proceed with extreme caution...
-My fix involved adding weights but without scarring the housing. NOTE: I have only tried this on my 4.0's. May or may not work on the others.
*For this fix, I used:
-1" convoluted wire loom (all condition black)
-stainless steel wire ties made by Hellerman Tyton; tensile strength of 150lbs.
(Note: I wouldn't use nylon or plastic ties... Underhood temps tend to make these
brittle and unreliable, personal preference)
-3 Rolls of Tommytape (silicone self fusing tape)
-Roll of 3m flexible wheel weights (I have a HUGE roll of this, let me know if anyone
needs some... small fee)
-small tube of silicone from Ford RTV type
-Procedure:
1) Remove the motor cover by unscrewing the 3 small screws.
2) Rotate the throttle by hand until you can release the throttle cable from the housing.
3) Using a pair of pliers, GENTLY squeeze the two sides of the housing together and remove the housing from the metal bracket.
4) Using a high quality cleaner, degrease the cable as best as you can. Using two strips of wheel weights, or appx 5.0 ounces of traditional weight, attach to the housing at a location between the valve cover and 2-3" from the bracket on the motor.
5) Make sure the weight position doesn't interfere with anything in the vicinity, then secure in place with 4 stainless steel wire ties.
6) Cover the weighted housing with tommy tape and then with convuleted cable loom, then again with tommy tape.
7) Replace the cable and ensure free movement of the cable, NO binding should occur at all. Replace housings and screws.
8) Go the the cab and remove the accelerator pivot bolt.
9) Remove the pedal and seperate it from the safety spring/cable assembly. Apply a SMALL amount of silicone to the green retainer between the pedal and itself, and also a small bead to the two ends of the spring. You are trying to make the spring harder to oscillate...
10) Allow to fully cure then put the accelerator back in position and tighten the bolt down.
*once again, ensure the cable is 100% bind free throughout its ENTIRE range of motion. Any slight binding will cause problems...
11) Take for a test drive, and enjoy a nice quiet cruise control...
Hope this helps!! My cruise was really loud but now is silent...
Last edited by powerstroke6ltr; Oct 14, 2007 at 05:43 PM. Reason: didn't spell check...








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