You said you pulled the tube and the springs apart. Is there a way to tell if you have the spring seated correctly? Hubby wanted me to ask you.

 

Do you know the seller name of the guy that you bought from??? I want to make sure that we get good ones and not something that won't fix the problem.

 

Kinda off the original subject, but
LOL Thats how my wife got me to finaly replace the hub assembly on her truck

 

Don't bother replacing the coils unless you know they are bad. A boot costs $4 or so at Autozone, checker, napa, wherever. Any of them that pulled apart when he looked at it should be replaced. No sense replacing parts that are good (the coil itself) when you can fix it for MUCH cheaper.

 

Ok, was just going by what others were saying. Will try boots, then.
Thanks.

 

Napa has them box of 4 part # 727418 also get dielectric silicone compound, put a dab where the spark plug snaps in, I run a bead around where the boot meets the block,

 

2003 E/B with 124k miles. Two of my COPs began missing/shorting. This occured about 18 months between each other. They happened to be jugs 2 and 5 so they were pretty easy to get to. The boots themselves were torn at the bottom. Don't throw anything at me but I wrapped the ends of the boots with electrical tape and it solved the problem. Once I confirmed that this was indeed the solution I used a 1 inch piece heatshrink tubing to make sure that the tape remains in place. The boot on jug 2 was fixed about 35k miles ago and is still holding strong. I would not recommend doing this on #4 or #8 since they are such a huge pain to get to!

Just an option....

 

I asked him again and he said they weren't torn, just seemed looser than the others when he went to remove them and then they popped apart on their own in stead of having to take them apart. So, do you still think it is the boots rather than the coils???

I just want the thing fixed before we break anything else, ya know.

By the way, stopped by Advance which is about 40 miles from me. They said no SES light, no code to read.

 

The parts stores around here told me that you cant buy just the boot...they must be lying...

 

Ok, here is a questions, since we are not sure which one or ones are causing the problem, shuld we put $32 in 8 new boots or just spend the extra and get 8 new coils that would have new boots with them???

Also, does anyone know who was selling the coils for $103 on EBAY including shipping???? The cheapest we saw was like $120. We don't want to get ripped off and buy something that doesn't work.


Sorry this thread is getting so long.

 

here is the ebay selers name just put it in as seller and it will take you to his listings, Good luck calicarstereo$(if you have any questions please feel free to email me)

 

here is the item number as well. Have a great day ebay ford ignition coils $95.00 8 coils new in box item number 130145695725

 

In my experience, I've found that every coil I had to replace was electrically fine. The problem was the lower 1/2 of the spring wasn't connecting with the top of the spark plug properly.

Let me try to explain. I had on the bench my old plug & coil pack and a new plug & coil pack. On the new, if I attached the plug to the coil, the plug would stay connected. If I shook it up & down vigorously, then maybe it would fall off. The old plug (or the new one) wouldn't stay connected to the spring on the old coil. I tried winding the spring tighter etc. maybe a dab of the dielectric grease etc, and it still wouldn't stay connected.

Not being an engineer or anything, it seems like maybe the springs expand & shrink with temperature rise etc, and after a while don't return to their original size?? Maybe condensation (for those of us in the colder regions) forms & triclkes down the hole and messes things up?

Some of my plugs removed easier than others. And on some I was surprized at the amount of rust built-up at the spark plug thread loacation - which made loosening the plug w/o breaking it a chore.

Soon I'll be replacing the boots & springs on my F-150 because for a few dollars it's like insurance that the coils will be making good electrical contact.

Good Luck.

BTW all my coils that were diagnosed as bad with the dealer's gameboy, all checked fine for electrical continuity (through the coil itself) but it was that spring that wasn't attaching too the plug correctly (there wasn't ANY tension at all keeping it on top of the plug. It was like the spring was a size too big for the plug.

Now I avoid puddles etc. because I don't want any water to splash up onto the hot engine & land on the coil packs & possibly crack them or anything.

 

Ok, now should we try chancing changing the plugs at the same time as the coils? I have read about the plug blow outs and don't want to take the chance, but hubby thinks it all should be changed. What do you guys think????

 

Yes, I definately would replace the plugs. For a few dollars more, you'll have piece of mind knowing that they have been all changed. There have been some excellent tips on this forum as fas as replacement goes. Make sure the engine is cool (don't want to strip the threads on anything) and either vacuum and/or blow out the recessed area where the plug is (you don't want any crap, rust/dirt etc. falling into the engine) You'll need a magnetic spark plug socket and an assortment of extensions & swivels etc.

***Put a light coat of anti-sieze on the plug threads*** (some of my plugs were really in there)

A dab of dielectric grease on the plug tip and wire connector and just take your time.

Good Luck.