Exhaust Problems
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Exhaust Problems
Hi, I have a 1999 XLT Triton V8 with about 113K. My problem is with the stock exhaust. The undercarriage of my truck has major rust, the benefits of spending the first 100K of her life in upstate NY 
.
I have a major exhaust leak on both sides, bad enough that it will not pass state inspection. The bolts that hold the manifold to the header are for the most part shot, which seems to be a common problem. I took it to a mechanic and was told that to fix the problem he would need to tear the engine down to remove the headers and have the bolts machined out, this would cost about $2-2.5K.
I have read a bunch of posts about removing broken bolts but my question is how do you access them? Do I need to pull the motor completely out or just lift it? I also read about removing the fenders. In my simple mind, I don't see why these can't be drilled and tapped out.
So I guess my question is: If you had to replace all the bolts that hold the manifold to the exhaust on the driver/passenger side- How would you do it?
TMAN-MA
. I have a major exhaust leak on both sides, bad enough that it will not pass state inspection. The bolts that hold the manifold to the header are for the most part shot, which seems to be a common problem. I took it to a mechanic and was told that to fix the problem he would need to tear the engine down to remove the headers and have the bolts machined out, this would cost about $2-2.5K.
I have read a bunch of posts about removing broken bolts but my question is how do you access them? Do I need to pull the motor completely out or just lift it? I also read about removing the fenders. In my simple mind, I don't see why these can't be drilled and tapped out.
So I guess my question is: If you had to replace all the bolts that hold the manifold to the exhaust on the driver/passenger side- How would you do it?
TMAN-MA
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,209
Likes: 1
From: Louisville, Kentucky
I haven't been lucky enough to have been afflicted with this problem. 
Ford has replacement studs and nuts available that are stainless steel to remedy this problem.
From what I have seen in other threads, the studs rot off.
If this is the case and it is left as is, the exhaust leak can etch a groove in the cylinder head. 
If this has happened, it is time for a new head.
Replacing them yourself can be done. Take the wheels off and put the truck up on jack stands. Remove the inner fender liner to gain access to the exhaust manifolds. There are some nuts in the middle of the manifold that have no access because they are blocked by the motor mounts. Take the motor mount bolts out and jack the engine up to gain access to the manifold nuts and studs.
Most of the time the broken off studs do not break at the head surface and a pair of vice grips can be used to turn them out. If the stud is broken off flush, then it is time to drill it and to use an easy out. Good luck!
Ford has replacement studs and nuts available that are stainless steel to remedy this problem. From what I have seen in other threads, the studs rot off.
If this is the case and it is left as is, the exhaust leak can etch a groove in the cylinder head. If this has happened, it is time for a new head.Replacing them yourself can be done. Take the wheels off and put the truck up on jack stands. Remove the inner fender liner to gain access to the exhaust manifolds. There are some nuts in the middle of the manifold that have no access because they are blocked by the motor mounts. Take the motor mount bolts out and jack the engine up to gain access to the manifold nuts and studs.
Most of the time the broken off studs do not break at the head surface and a pair of vice grips can be used to turn them out. If the stud is broken off flush, then it is time to drill it and to use an easy out. Good luck!
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
I just had this very issue. I was pulling out the trans to change the shift forks. In order to get the trans out you must remove the exhaust. I planned on cutting the exhaust behind the cats and replacing with new, but the cats fell off. The bolts were so rotted at the manifold.
Here is what I did. I used a 4.5 inch angle grinder and ground the remains of the studs flush on the rear side of the manifold. I used an ever increasing size of drill to drill out the studs. I used 3/8 in galvanized bolts and nuts from the hardware store to bolt the manifold to the exhaust. Cost = elbow grease.
Here is what I did. I used a 4.5 inch angle grinder and ground the remains of the studs flush on the rear side of the manifold. I used an ever increasing size of drill to drill out the studs. I used 3/8 in galvanized bolts and nuts from the hardware store to bolt the manifold to the exhaust. Cost = elbow grease.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 811
Likes: 0
I've done several, and all you need to do is remove the fenderwells. Not always the easiest to remove the broken studs, but I've always been able to do it. A good drill bit and extractor will get them out. Removing the steering shaft on the Lh. side sometimes helps.
Last edited by ranger88a; Jul 31, 2007 at 03:35 PM.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,290
Likes: 1
From: Edgerton, WI
As long as the studs arent broken off flush with the block you should be able to get them out with a pair of Vise Grips. I had a few broken studs on my truck and thats how we got them out. I would strongly advise you to replace them with stainless studs that wont rust out. I live in Wisconsin, so I feel your pain about rust. Luckily, the original owner of my truck replaced the stock exhaust with stainless duals, so the part of the exhaust that sees the most salt is stainless and wont rust.
If the studs are broken off flush, you have a problem and that could end up being an expensive fix.
If the studs are broken off flush, you have a problem and that could end up being an expensive fix.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 7,047
Likes: 2
From: North west La
I put headers on my truck at 60k. I didn't have rusted bolts. It wasn't easy but I did it in 8hrs. I just pulled the fender liners & jacked the motor up to get to one of the manifold bolts. Your mechanic is bending you over with that price.I got a quote of $400 to have my headers installed. I'd never use that mechanic if this is how he treats his customers. Use the stainless studs Ford sells now when you fix your truck. I have a set of 5.4 manifolds for a 97F150 if anyone needs them. They are in good shape.
Last edited by lariat97; Aug 26, 2007 at 05:40 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
98expeditionXLT
1997 - 2006 Expedition & Navigator
24
Jan 19, 2009 08:25 PM
tman12345
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
16
Mar 13, 2008 10:40 PM
