I have a 1985 F250 2WD with a newer 300 I6 1994 motor supposedly (1990+ based on casting number F0TE-6015-DA), 4 speed T-18, ignition is TFI with EEC-IV. Old farm truck with most electrical connectors disconnected and or melted, and most vacuum lines missing or not connected. I removed the motor and trans to replace most items and clean it up with the intention of making it reliable and pass an emmision tail pipe test.

NOTE: Prior to disassembly the truck would only start when releasing key from start to the run position, I replaced the ignition switch and still had the same problem.<O class=inlineimg title="Stick Out Tongue" </O class=inlineimg title="Stick Out Tongue"

After replacing parts, gaskets, installing motor and trans, replacing feedback carb with 1972 non-feedback YF carb, removing the solenoids and wiring from drivers side rear valve cover, and leaving original wiring in place I attempted to start the truck. The motor did not run because while installing the flywheel the crank was rotated and caused the distributor to move from its original location because the hold-down bolt was removed and it was not in the correct position. I removed the distributor and located TDC, installed dizzy again. The truck started but was not running right so I decided to change over to DSII now instead of messing with the old ignition.

I cannot get the motor to run after changing over to DSII (harness,dizzy,and coil). I have read most all threads dealing with this conversion on this site and others. Here are some more facts that may help in locating the problem. My wires do not match the colors on the wiring diagram on AZ's website. I have read of people connecting into the current wiring with no problem, but I definitely have one. There is no wire on the "I" terminal of the starter relay. Questionable connections are listed below.

Main Harness DSII Module Run / Start Condition
Wht/Blu Red 12.5 / 8.5 BAD
Red/Lt Blu Wht 0.0 / 8.5 OK

Main Harnes Coil Positive + Run / Start Condition
Red/Lt Grn Red/Lt Grn 7.6 / 8.6 BAD

I think that the red wire on the DSII Moduke should have 12.5 volts in both run and start, and the voltage on coil+ should be about 7 volts in run and 12.5 in start. I have already replaced the coil and ignition module with no positive results. When I test the spark at the coil with a generic tester from AZ I get a good spark. I have not tried another new dizzy yet, but it appears OK from testing the resistances. TheRangerStation.com states that one new connection is required for the module (12 volts run & start). Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Sounds like the battery voltage dropped during the test.

The RED wire should be Battery Voltage in RUN but less in Start.

Here are two diagrams to look at.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...itionDP283.gif

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...parkwiring.gif

 

Yes, you only have 8.5 volts during starting at the coil, but if you notice, you only have 8.5 volts on the red/blue too. This tells me your whole system voltage is 8.5v during cranking, which technically should be enough to get it going.


Take some readings between the coil minus and the engine block. During cranking, you should see the voltage jump up and down.

Also, make sure the black wire coming from the dist is a good ground. This is a ground wire that is grounded inside the dist, and it grounds the whole ignition system.

 

I performed more tests this morning. My multimeter is digital so I am not sure if it will detect the variation. The voltage on the coil "-" is 1.5 in run and 2.5 with no variation in the start position (bad). I also checked the black wire at the dist. by placing the test leads between the disconnected blk male and the other end to ground, result was OK/short. I tested the resistance between the org and pur wires at the dist. and it was 627 ohms, OK I believe. I tested the resistance of the pur and org wires to ground and did not get any resistance on the 2000K scale, an open, I believe over 70K is required. Any more suggestions on what to do next? Thanks!

 

[QUOTE=subford]Sounds like the battery voltage dropped during the test.

The RED wire should be Battery Voltage in RUN but less in Start.

Here are two diagrams to look at.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g91/subford/Electrical/Ignition/IgnitionDP283.gif

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g91/subford/Electrical/Ignition/durasparkwiring.gif[/QUOTE]

Thanks subford. The first link is good but the second is bad. Do you think I should try to figure out why the voltage drop is happening? If yes, what would be the best way to do it? Start at the battery and go towards the ignition switch?

 

Where did you get your module and dist? Are they known to be good?

 

Advance Auto. The first coil and module that I put in were used, but tested good prior to installing. After many hours of diagnosing problem I bought another coil and module from AA again, but the results were the same. I am ready to go and get another distributor from a AA store further down the road and try that. Do you think that is a good choice?

Also, as mentioned in my first post, I have a pretty good spark at the coil wire now using the tester I bought. Previousy I took a plug wire off and placed a bolt in the boot and held it near ground, that is when I had weak spark. If it was 180 off I do not believe that I would get any spark, is that right? I set my timing by using TDC on the scale on the passenger side of the block and the thin line on the balancer, not the notch which is about 1/8" wide by 1/8" deep. That is what other threads said to use. I am wondering if it is 180 degrees out, but it turns over like it is right. I may try to switch it 180 and try again. I did test to see if the rotor was turning and I made sure that it moved both directions with no slop or lag while turning the balancer with a ratchet, trying to see if the crank and cam gears may be missing a tooth. I think I may have to pull the valve cover and look at the valves.

 

Both of my links seem to work OK.
Click on it in my post and not yours.

"Main Harnes Coil Positive + Run / Start Condition
Red/Lt Grn Red/Lt Grn 7.6 / 8.6 BAD"

This is not right in START, should be battery voltage but you can not go by the readings with a digital multimeter, they lie to you and make you chase your tail all day.
Put it away and get a Test Light, it will tell you what you have.
Make sure your battery is charged.
Hook the clip on the test light to a good ground and the probe (point) on the BATT side of the coil while cranking the engine, it should light up.
Now put it on the TACH (-) side of the coil and crank the engine, it should flash.
If all is well take out number one spark plug (front plug).
Put in some kind of plug (rubber maybe) in the number one hole and turn the engine by hand until it pops out.
The engine should be close to TDC on the damper, turn the engine a little one way or the other to line it up with TDC.
Look at the rotor in the distributor, it should be pointing right under the tower on the cap labeled one.

If all of this is OK you should be able to start and time the engine with timing light.

 

Thanks subford. I did get out my test light and tested while starting, the light stayed lit on the coil "+", and the coil "-" it did light and flash/pulse. Still won't run the way it sets. I rotated the crank until the very thin line (I thought was correct) I marked on the balancer was at TDC, I put a rubber hose in the spark plug hole and moved the crank both directions to check that the piston was at TDC and verify that I had the coorect mark on the balancer. When I dropped the new dist. in the first time I placed my finger over the hole to verify the #1 cylinder was on the compression stroke. Everything appears correct! When the old dist. was in the wrong place before the engine cranked oddly. Now it appears to crank normally. I may pull the dist. and rotate 180 to see what happens for the heck of it. Do you think the new dist. may be bad, or have any other ideas?

 

A lot of dampers have a line, I do not know why it is there but it has nothing to do with timing, use the notch.

 

I missed in your post that you are getting spark. That means the ignition system is working. Keep working on the timing and make sure you have fuel.

There is also the senario where you have been messing around with the engine so much, you have drowned the plugs with fuel and they won't fire. You can recognize this by pulling a plug, and it's wet with fuel.

 

It's Alive! I figured that I tested everything I could as far as the ignition goes and was going to check TDC of the number 1 piston again. I had the neighbor come over and stick his finger in the hole and he said there was compression building as I turned the crank quickly with a ratchet. Where it was set, if I had it correct I should have been on the power stroke on the way down and exhaust on the way up, and not get compression until the second rotation of the crank. I pulled and replaced the distributor conected everything and it fired the first try, and started the second.

The statement subford made, "A lot of dampers have a line, I do not know why it is there but it has nothing to do with timing, use the notch", does not make sense to me because I verified TDC using the thin line I thought it was. If subford or someone else could explain a little more as to why to use the notch I would like to know since it is about 135 degess after the thin line.

I do have a bit of a problem right now, when I put the radiator in it took about a gallon of water and antifreeze (2 total) until the rad would not hold any more. I believe it should hold about another gallon. As the truck began to warm up the radiator began to overflow a fair amount of coolant/water. I am almost positive that the thermostat is installed correctly, is it possible that the heater hoses are on wrong? I have AC and as you look at the connections on the firewall for the heater core the hose on the left goes to the thermostat housing, and the one on the right goes to the water pump. Is this correct, or does it matter? Should I let it get hotter and see if the thermostat opens up and the top it of with more antifreeze and water? I will have to post a new thread if not answered here.

I want to thank you guys again for all the help so far, I really appreciate it. I would love to take it for a spin around the block later!

 

There is air in the engine. When the thermostat opens, a big air pocket will push fluid out of the radiator, and then you should see the water level drop. Then it will take more fluid again till another big air bubble pushes more fluid out.

You can also take one of the heater hoses loose, and fill the radiator till coolant starts running out of the heater connection. Then stick it back on. This will get a lot of coolant in the engine, but it still won't be totally full till the thermostat opens and you run it for awhile.

If you have almost all the water in the engine, turn the engine off, fill the radiator as high as you possibly can, and fill the overflow bottle. Sitck the radiator cap on, and as the engine cools, it will pull coolant from the overflow bottle and fill the system.

 

Thanks Dave. Any idea on the postion of each heater hose, does it matter?

 

If they are the same size, it doesn't matter. Most Fords are the same size. A lot of GM's had different size heater hoses(5/8 and 3/4).