86 issues
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Junior User
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86 issues
So last fall I took my daughter for a ride in my Bronco. I hardly drive it so I figured what the heck. We get about 5 miles from home and it just dies. I get it towed home and I changed the ICM because I had no spark and it was only $20. It fired right up. Hopped in made it about 1/2 mile then it shut back off. Towed it home again and took the ICM back to advanced auto. They said it was good but I argued until they gave me another. Came home threw it in and it ran for about 14 minutes then shut off. Won't start. What else it there to check?
This thing is still in good shape and hasn't ran in months. I'd like to get it running soon so it doesn't rust away.
Here's a picture before I unloaded it after the first tow.
This thing is still in good shape and hasn't ran in months. I'd like to get it running soon so it doesn't rust away.
Here's a picture before I unloaded it after the first tow.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
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From: Gateway to the West
I am going to assume its fuel injected. Try pulling codes from the computer. This will save a lot of guesswork and money. Will also pinpoint any issues that may not be so obvious. If replacing the ignition control module allows it to restart but only lets it run for a short time, you could have a grounding issue with the module itself that is killing it or overheating it. The module needs the heat sink "goop" applied liberally across the back to allow for good heat transfer during operation as well.
The problem is most likely heat-related since it seems to take about as long as it should take for the engine to reach full operating temperature before the problem rears its ugly head. If it won't start at all even after it has completely cooled, then the problem is almost certainly electrical in nature.
The problem is most likely heat-related since it seems to take about as long as it should take for the engine to reach full operating temperature before the problem rears its ugly head. If it won't start at all even after it has completely cooled, then the problem is almost certainly electrical in nature.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: city of angels
i had a similar issue with my 86 on the hottest days...once it sat and cooled off - she was good to go.
that year - the module was not very protected...i believe on the later models it was shielded and they relocated it to a cooler spot in the engine bay.
the first year fuel injection certainly has issues...(but i still wont get rid of her - theres nothing that even comes close to my "bronky")
drj
that year - the module was not very protected...i believe on the later models it was shielded and they relocated it to a cooler spot in the engine bay.
the first year fuel injection certainly has issues...(but i still wont get rid of her - theres nothing that even comes close to my "bronky")
drj
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Originally Posted by greystreak92
I am going to assume its fuel injected. Try pulling codes from the computer. This will save a lot of guesswork and money. Will also pinpoint any issues that may not be so obvious. If replacing the ignition control module allows it to restart but only lets it run for a short time, you could have a grounding issue with the module itself that is killing it or overheating it. The module needs the heat sink "goop" applied liberally across the back to allow for good heat transfer during operation as well.
The problem is most likely heat-related since it seems to take about as long as it should take for the engine to reach full operating temperature before the problem rears its ugly head. If it won't start at all even after it has completely cooled, then the problem is almost certainly electrical in nature.
The problem is most likely heat-related since it seems to take about as long as it should take for the engine to reach full operating temperature before the problem rears its ugly head. If it won't start at all even after it has completely cooled, then the problem is almost certainly electrical in nature.
It's not fuel injected. It has the 351 in it. And as far as grounding the Module. It's mounted to the inner fender. I believe its plastic but I'm not sure since I'm at work and can't look. I' post again tonight when I get home from work.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Longview, TX
I'm envious. My ICM cost $100. I replaced my ignition module. The proceedure called for removing the connection, heat sink from fender wall, module from heat sink. Reassemble with dielectric grease between new module and heat sink. I did not understand why the heat sink had to be removed but I'm guessing that was to be sure the ground to the fender was good and the dielectric grease was for grounding module to heat sink?
BTW, I am still having the occasional die and wait five minutes issue every few months but will add to my old thread on this when I get time to pull codes from continuous memory.
BTW, I am still having the occasional die and wait five minutes issue every few months but will add to my old thread on this when I get time to pull codes from continuous memory.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Florida
Doesn't make any sense though that it JUST started doing this...I'm gonna assume it never did it before it sat...It probably is electrical like greystreak said....or it's that Chevy sitting next to it in the picture.Ha Ha.My buddy used to have an 86 F-150 with a straight six....did the same thing so he replaced the ICM...turned out to be a friggin resistor bout an inch long and 3/8 wide and it was round with one wire goin in and one goinout...If I recall he bypassed it by splicin the two wires together and that fixed it.....we're guessin it just wiggled loose over time...and it was pretty close to the engine as i remember it......
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: western montana
1. ck and make sure it isn't fuel related...clogged parts can and likely will provide the same symptoms.
2. If it dies and you know you have fuel to carb then it can get messy...so hows your diagnostic ability? can be wires or any one of the parts that break contact once hot from current then make contact again when cool. Unlikely an acm at this point but theres also the computer under your seat. I have an extra as i tore it all out and went with the simple one wire hei system...that does not provide auto timing retard while starting but works great for me. You basically need to work from the plug backward ie is distributor not providing sprk then how about the coil to dist...then power to coil etc which gets trickier the further back you have to go. I'd pay a mechanic to diagnose at that point (if i didn't replace with hei) but only if i could watch and learn.
it's a nice looking bronco for sure and broco's are so dang fun...can't imagion myself w/o one- have owned 6- 2 current though one will have to go eventually.
2. If it dies and you know you have fuel to carb then it can get messy...so hows your diagnostic ability? can be wires or any one of the parts that break contact once hot from current then make contact again when cool. Unlikely an acm at this point but theres also the computer under your seat. I have an extra as i tore it all out and went with the simple one wire hei system...that does not provide auto timing retard while starting but works great for me. You basically need to work from the plug backward ie is distributor not providing sprk then how about the coil to dist...then power to coil etc which gets trickier the further back you have to go. I'd pay a mechanic to diagnose at that point (if i didn't replace with hei) but only if i could watch and learn.
it's a nice looking bronco for sure and broco's are so dang fun...can't imagion myself w/o one- have owned 6- 2 current though one will have to go eventually.
Last edited by roger dowty; Jul 29, 2007 at 03:54 AM.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Longview, TX
I discussed this with some mechanics who maintain a fleet of trucks. They suggested to check for fuel first. They had one that ate them up for awhile. They changed ICM, pickup in dist, wires, cap, rotor, coil, then finally found it. They said if it dies again feel the pigtail wires going into the dist. to see if hot. If hot then replace. That finally solved their problem.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Longview, TX
OOPS!!!!!!
Only had one cup of coffee earlier.
Feel the small wires going into the COIL, not the distributor like I said earlier this morning. Sorry.
Only had one cup of coffee earlier.
Feel the small wires going into the COIL, not the distributor like I said earlier this morning. Sorry.
Last edited by b4hntn; Jul 29, 2007 at 10:29 AM. Reason: typo